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Old 09-23-2015, 10:04 AM   #1
tmontague
 
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1zz TB install

I just pulled the trigger and ordered a used 1ZZ TB off ebay for $50 w/ free shipping. The part # that is comes with is a range from 030-041.

Since I have a rivet gun I am going to go ahead and swap the chips just because it's fairly easy and it won't hurt. I'll be picking it up next weekend and installing it then as well.

I have a TRD intake and DC headers so I'm hoping this improves the intake noise a bit and give it more pick up on the highway. I'll keep everyone updated in the next couple weeks.

I'm going to try and do it with the stock coolant hose and just switch them around, worst case scenario I'll just go out and buy some hose from my local auto store. I'm looking forward to the mod. Any tips or hints feel free to post them
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Old 09-27-2015, 11:34 AM   #2
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I just installed my 1zz throttle 2-3 days ago without the chip swap, it has been night and day since that! I used the stock coolant lines,just switched em around and its been going without any problem! Since i was working in the engine bay i also added some 2zz injectors i had. Got a few CELs but not really worried about them.
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Old 09-27-2015, 12:35 PM   #3
Bluevitz-rs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crazy Butcher View Post
I just installed my 1zz throttle 2-3 days ago without the chip swap, it has been night and day since that! I used the stock coolant lines,just switched em around and its been going without any problem! Since i was working in the engine bay i also added some 2zz injectors i had. Got a few CELs but not really worried about them.
Why did you install 2ZZ injectors?
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Old 09-27-2015, 02:21 PM   #4
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Why did you install 2ZZ injectors?
They were free,
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Old 09-27-2015, 03:11 PM   #5
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They were free,
Are you running high boost? If not all you'll end up doing is make the engine run rich and wreck fuel economy. Free or not, there's no point using them if you don't require them.
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Old 09-27-2015, 06:31 PM   #6
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Are you running high boost? If not all you'll end up doing is make the engine run rich and wreck fuel economy. Free or not, there's no point using them if you don't require them.

Your completly right, i totally agree, no im not boosted yet, but i plan to be as soon as i can afford it, i recon theres no use of them now. I had them layin around and i was working on it so i said f*ck it. It was more of a preventive upgrade, the car is going into storage soon, ill have time to set up my turbo build
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Old 10-05-2015, 02:28 PM   #7
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alright, I finally installed the 1zz Tb this weekend and here are my thoughts. I also painted my valve cover and the tops of my coil packs at the same time. Oh and I fixed a vacuum leak that I thought I had but could never find (found it by chance). I also re lubed (lithium grease) all my shifting and clutch points, clutch squeak is now gone and my shifting is smoother then ever. In in hindsight not too shabby for timing since I ended up doing more than I thought.

I took about 3.5 hours from start to finish including getting everything set up/cleaned. It took about 45mins to an hour just to do the chip swap due to the rivets being a huge pita to drill out, broke 4 drill bits, 2 regular and 2 gold ones.

I swapped the chips and chipped away the epoxy the best as I could. I still couldn't get the idle screw to turn without risk of it stripping so I put some pb blaster on it and let it sit for 5 mins. I then slowly turned it back and fourth each time more and more and eventually it broke free completely. I just backed it out a bunch and adjusted it later when installed.

I tried to switch the coolant hoses over but there was no way I was ever going to reach one of them. Off to Parts Source I went and grabbed n fuel line of the same size, it is just a little more rigid since they didn't have coolant lines. The guy tried to convince me it was in fact a fuel line I had brought in even though it was clearly from the TB and it was more flexible than what I bought from him.

Installed the TB attached coolant lines and started her up. No issues at all except when reaching operating temps. The idle was down to 280-300rpms and was barely staying running (not sure how it didn't die). Re adjusted the idle screw and now the rpm's are at a comfortable 580-610.

It cold idles at about 2,000rpm from the stock 1700-2000 it normally does which I don't feel is bad at all. This happened this morning for about 8-10 seconds, although it was about 12 degrees C this morning. It will likely last longer in winter temps but 2000 rpms isn't too high.

I am happy with the performance change, the throttle response is much better, you don't have to push down the gas pedal nearly as far to get the car to go. I find I can accelerate easier in 5th gear and don't have to shift down as much into 4th to accelerate. It obviously doesn't add any hp or torque but it make going faster far less effort. Feels like the car has a bigger engine in it because it accelerates better with less push of the pedal.

I will be attempting the JB weld DIY intake port this weekend. I can't justify spending $850 CAD on an intake right now and I don't like the idea of the stock intake limiting the 1zz TB mod so much. There was a DIY post on YW back in 2010 regarding this mod and is looks easy and straight forward to do and it was mentioned that it lowered the power band which is great.

I was happy with this mod as the TB came off of ebay for $40 USD and although it wasn't new or super clean a 5 min clean was all it took to make it like new again.

I had to stretch my silicone adapter from my TRD intake to fit the 1zz TB. My metal clamps therefore would not fit so I just used a ziptie to keep it secure although it wasn't needed as the silcone was so tight on the Tb that it won't move anyways.

As a side note ever since my DIY oil catch can install a couple years ago I had been hearing a hiss when my engine is running from the engine bay. It was coming directly from the catch can. I couldn't find out exactly where it was coming from so I assumed it wasn't a leak but just the sounds of the catch can working. It only ever has about 1 tsp of oil in it and it never really built up ever. I assumed it was because the engine was relatively new and in good shape.

Everyone once in a while if I was idling for 45mins (such as waiting at the border in line, high vacuum) the code P0171 for running lean which is generally triggered by a vacuum leak. Other than that no codes would be thrown and my fuel consumption was still amazing.

I decided to teflon tape every thread on my catch can after I installed the TB. I did and when I started the engine it still hissed. I quickly inspected the catch can and realized that the drain nipple on the bottom of it was fully leaking and sucking air into the can. I removed it and put some RTV sealant in the hole and let it cure over night. Installed it the next morning and have driven about 80km so far mostly highway and no issues yet.

This vacuum leak was likely the reason for my somewhat rough idle I woul have. The idle would drop to 550 and the engine would vibrate and it would yoyo back and fourth from 550-620 and the vibration would come and go with the changes in rpm. This wasn't a specific problem but it got annoying.

I used my ultra gauge to check for the vacuum leak and the long term and short term banks would vary by about 20-25 during idle which was a clear vacuum leak. Now they are withing 3-6 of each other at idle.

I'll post back once I port the intake and let you all know what the butt dyno thinks!
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Old 10-06-2015, 11:35 AM   #8
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Nice story and all, but:



JK. lol

I'm really glad the new TB is working as it should now.

What ID size/length of coolant hoses did you end up getting? Did you end up having to drain the entire system to do the hose swap?

Another way to remove the rivets I've heared is to throw the TB in a vice and cut the protruding metal off with a cutting disk. Then hammer the rivets out with a punch. No idea if it's better since you can cut into the TB if you're not carefull.

Now I can't wait for your write-up on the port-match!

Definitly keep us posted!
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Old 10-06-2015, 03:55 PM   #9
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I always forget to take pics until the end, and for some reason I always have issues uploading them to YW :s, but yes I definitely need pics.

I never needed to drain the colant, only a little bit drips out and as lon as you clamp/plug the lines or keep them above the block then they won't drain anymore coolant out.

I just took the current hose into a parts source and asked for the same size hose and got 3' of it. It is your typical fuel line rubber hose, 3/8 I believe.

I noticed now in th morning's the car idles at 2800rpm at start up for about 20 - 30 seconds and then normalizes. The ecu has almost went through its full cycle just waiting on the EGR check (confirmed by ultragauge). Once it ok's the EGR then i'll play with the idle screw a bit more to get the idle down to 600, it usually idles around 900-1000rpm right now.

I'll have a write up done on porting the intake by tomorrow, decided to play hooky from school and I the job today, so far so good but learning a lot
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