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Old 10-10-2018, 04:08 PM   #37
ojeysky
 
Drives: Sedan Yaris 2010
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Nigeria
Posts: 54
Quote:
Originally Posted by thebarber View Post
have you tried a new rad cap? you could be sucking in air if the rad cap no longer seals properly.
Yes I have done that.
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Old 10-10-2018, 04:35 PM   #38
ojeysky
 
Drives: Sedan Yaris 2010
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Location: Nigeria
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My fan normally kicks off at 96C, is it possible to reduce that to say 86C? Perhaps having the fan blow earlier will reduce the impact until when I get to replace the engine. How do I get the temperature trigger point reduced?

Last edited by ojeysky; 10-17-2018 at 12:22 AM.
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Old 10-11-2018, 02:30 PM   #39
ojeysky
 
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Bump....! Anyone with an idea on this?
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Old 10-12-2018, 02:06 AM   #40
B.B._07
 
Drives: 07 5dr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ojeysky View Post
Bump....! Anyone with an idea on this?
The cooling fan is on a 2 speed circuit with the ECT sensor connected to the ECU which determines at which preset coolant temp the fan will engage at low or high speed. You can't modify the coolant temp values at which the ECU will turn the fan on at high or low. The only way you could change when the fan turns on would be to bypass the ECU control and install an aftermarket adjustable fan controller with a temperature probe. Hayden Automotive and Derale are two companies that make adjustable fan controllers.

https://www.amazon.com/Hayden-Automo...fan+controller

https://www.amazon.com/Derale-16759-...fan+controller

Installation and availability in Nigeria might be a challenge.

Last edited by B.B._07; 10-12-2018 at 02:41 AM.
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Old 10-12-2018, 02:16 AM   #41
ojeysky
 
Drives: Sedan Yaris 2010
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Thanks a lot for your response, you are right it might be difficult to get this in my country, but I will look around. I had thought one could adjust the temp from 96C to something lower easily.

Meanwhile I may need to check if my fan is indeed running at the low or high speed, at what temperature level are both triggered?

Thanks

Last edited by ojeysky; 10-17-2018 at 12:21 AM.
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Old 10-13-2018, 03:39 PM   #42
ArmstrongRacing
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Normally if you get all of the air out of the system with the funnel or running the engine with the cap on for a few minutes, let it cool down, then top off.....and you also replace the caps, the issue should be corrected.

However if there was sealer clogging the radiator it’s possible the head gasket passages and/or the heater core has some restriction now as well.

All of us with 1.8 swaps have never had overheat issues while racing or otherwise. My car doesn’t even have a heater anymore and still has the original radiator, and it’s never been above 210.
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Old 11-22-2018, 04:08 PM   #43
ojeysky
 
Drives: Sedan Yaris 2010
Join Date: Dec 2017
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Just to update that everything is fine with my car now. It so happen that it's a radiator issue. I installed a brand new one and so far all seem good. I will take it on a long journey next week to really see how well it performs.

Am a happy man for now!
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Old 08-22-2023, 07:28 AM   #44
rayfloyd170
 
Drives: Yaris 2016 1.3 Manual
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This happened to my Yaris as well last week, i have real-time monitor for my coolant temps and while in traffic at desert climate sometimes it goes beyond 97-98degC. also while in highspeed highway driving it randomly goes to 95C. It wasn't like this before. It used to hover at 86-88C on peak summer and even during idle for an hour it barely reaches to 90C. I was wondering since i just drain/fill with new coolant and burped the system. Also the fan is spinning high when AC is on.

I am really sure i drained a bright red/pink toyota super long life coolant and that was very clear to rule out sludge in the radiator. I also drain/fill every 2years since coolant is pretty cheap here.

In addition to that the AC is not blowing the usual cold air if it goes near to ~95degC.

Last thing on my mind was to clean the radiator with soap and rinse it with water. I went to a car wash shop to utilize the liquid bubbly soap and told the guy to lower down the water pressure and focus cleaning the radiator. In this way it can also clean the AC condenser.

Immediately after this, my coolant temp just hovers around 86-87C even on idle for long time in desert ambient temp of +45C.

Cleaning the radiator resolved my problem because there was no leak, rad cap was good and plainly it was just soiled over or the radiator/condenser accumulated dust in the desert.

Bonus, AC is now chilling cold too even at peak summer.
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