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Old 05-11-2015, 07:49 PM   #37
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Sure seems to be a lot of non-starting Yari issues popping up recently. Another one for a 2004 was opened just a short while ago.

Although it was a Gen2, this is the latest one that I recall having a resolution. Issue seemed to have been the PCM.

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53838
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Old 05-11-2015, 08:26 PM   #38
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Hmm, starting to think it is the PCM/ECU. CAA is picking up the car in the next hour. I'm at the end with this car and would rather pay someone to diagnose it as i've put more than enough time into it.

If it is the PCM what is the easiest/cheapest way to get a new one for an auto Echo '02? We do drive clean tests in ontario but the Echo is good until another 2 years so I'm fine without a programmed one likely as my Fianceé should have a company car by then
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Old 05-11-2015, 09:58 PM   #39
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I sent you an Email with the Engine Control PDF for you car and a little rundown of what to check.
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Old 05-12-2015, 05:38 AM   #40
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thanks Blue, it was a good diagram. Electrical is my weak point, but I checked the EFI relays/fuses and the AM2 fuse and they were all fine. I'll keep this thread updated with what the mechanic says.
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Old 05-12-2015, 07:11 AM   #41
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Only way to check is with a volt meter. I've seen fuses that appeared to be fine that actually didn't conduct any electricity.
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Old 05-12-2015, 08:47 AM   #42
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Good to know, I should've swapped a spare 15A fuse to see if it worked. However the buzzing noise from the fuel rail likely means it has power since it goes off when the EFI relay is removed.

Only other problem relating to crank no start w/ that buzz is the issue linked above with a bad PCM I couldn't find any other problems like that anywhere on the internet
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Old 05-14-2015, 05:03 PM   #43
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Update:

Spoke with the mechanic today and this is the latest news. Car won't start but as soon as his computer is plugged in the car starts and runs perfectly fine. As soon as the computer is removed it stalls out.

He said that the computer is acting as a ground for the ECU or that the ECU is reading his computer allowing it to start.

Basically there is a ground disconnected or there is a connector pin bent down not properly connecting another wire. He's going to call me back hopefully tonight and let me know if he found the issue.
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Old 05-23-2015, 08:46 AM   #44
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Update:

Solved!!!

Sorry for taking so long to get this written up, been a busy week.

My mechanic looked at it and found out something weird with the Echo. When his computer was hooked up the engine would run perfectly fine. With it disconnected it wouldn't start or stall out. He said because it was running fine before I worked on it that it is likely a diconnected ground and his computer was grounding it which is why it would run when plugged in.

He found a loose ground on the cylinder head and once tightened it started fine. I didn't speak with the mechanic to find out which ground it was but when I picked up the car there were no new ground connected so it would've been one of the two on the drivers side of the engine block that grounds the ignition and EFI system. Hence the no spark and no fuel problem.

When driving the car home it ran fine except for an exhaust leak (likely from CAA towing it) Since I don't have a welder I took it to a local exhaust shop. They claimed it had a leaking pipe before the muffler and a leaking muffler.

Got it fixed and it runs great again. $200 for the mechanic and $250 for the exhaust. I have the old exhaust pieces and I can't see a leak in the old muffler which still looks in fairly good shape. Is there any way of finding out if it was leaking or not? I want to make sure I wasn't fed some bs.

It just turned over 350,000km and i'm looking to get 400,000km out of it. On my to do list for it is inner and outer tie rods and a bad engine mount.
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