Hard to start - Page 2 - Toyota Yaris Forums

sebastianroher · 02-02-2015, 12:07 AM

Yeah but I'm telling you the wires didn't get switched around. It is damn near impossible for that to happen because of the length. They make them pretty idiot proof. Also, I don't think my coils are bad as they throw the same codes even when I switch them around. I don't understand how there would be an open or short on the coils. Can you explain what I need to look for?

Bluevitz-rs · 02-02-2015, 12:09 AM

There could be damage to the wires or connectors for those coils then. Have someone crank the engine while you wiggle those connectors.

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sebastianroher · 02-02-2015, 12:10 AM

I will check it out tomorrow and see what happens. I just don't think that they would all be damaged. I can see maybe one, but multiple? What are the odds?

Bluevitz-rs · 02-02-2015, 12:12 AM

If someone have tried pulling those connectors off by the wires the could have been damaged. Or by using some pliers to pull the connectors off and slipped. Also a good idea to examine for corrosion inside each connection.

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CTScott · 02-02-2015, 06:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bluevitz-rs

If there was a sensor problem, you would have an associated code. The computer won't give you ignition coil codes for a crank sensor problem.

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You have to look at his other three threads and a pile of PMs. Besides the codes he is seeing now, his compression measures bad on cylinders 2 and 3.

Also, P0351-P0354 can be caused by the Oil control valve not working due to being plugged up. That is the round device mounted next the alternator. It also has a fine mesh filter mounted into the block below it.

Bluevitz-rs · 02-02-2015, 07:45 AM

Yeah except malfunction coils will definitely cause a no start situation. You can unplug the oil control valve and the car will still run as if nothing is wrong.

CTScott · 02-02-2015, 08:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bluevitz-rs

Yeah except malfunction coils will definitely cause a no start situation. You can unplug the oil control valve and the car will still run as if nothing is wrong.

The no start started after he replaced the cam sensor though. Prior to that he just had random misfires.

Bluevitz-rs · 02-02-2015, 08:18 AM

Cam sensor is essential for starting. So something is wrong with it still that would definitely cause it not to start.

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Bluevitz-rs · 02-02-2015, 08:19 AM

Can you see an AC singnal with a basic volt meter I wonder while cranking on that sensor?

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CTScott · 02-02-2015, 08:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bluevitz-rs

Can you see an AC singnal with a basic volt meter I wonder while cranking on that sensor?

Sent from my iPod Touch

Yes. With a voltmeter set to AC you would be able to see that the sensor has an output. It would really just be a crude working/not working, but even that should help.

sebastianroher · 02-02-2015, 09:37 AM

I thought the old sensor was bad because of the oil coming out of it? I'm going to check the resistance of the crank sensor today at work

sebastianroher · 02-02-2015, 10:45 AM

Scott, I'm going to buy a cylinder head and have it put on. Any recommendations on head or gaskets?

CTScott · 02-02-2015, 11:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sebastianroher

Scott, I'm going to buy a cylinder head and have it put on. Any recommendations on head or gaskets?

I think the OEM gaskets are the safest bet. For the head, just make sure that you get it from someplace that has a good reputation for remanufactured heads. I have never had to buy one that way (I have had a few reground over the years, but never actually replaced one),so I am not sure where to steer you on that one.

sebastianroher · 02-02-2015, 11:11 AM

I was thinking advance? They sell one for $300 cams included you just gotta switch over the VVT module

CTScott · 02-02-2015, 11:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sebastianroher

I was thinking advance? They sell one for $300 cams included you just gotta switch over the VVT module

Wow! I have paid less than that for used, low mileage engines, but it is a crapshoot when you buy used. If it comes with the cams installed and the valves pre-adjusted, then you will save yourself quite a bit of time.

sebastianroher · 02-02-2015, 11:48 AM

Lol in that case, you should find me an engine!

sebastianroher · 02-02-2015, 11:48 AM

I'm gonna pay someone to do it.

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02-02-2015, 12:07 AM	#19
sebastianroher Drives: 2009 Toyota Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Virginia Beach, Virginia Posts: 46	Yeah but I'm telling you the wires didn't get switched around. It is damn near impossible for that to happen because of the length. They make them pretty idiot proof. Also, I don't think my coils are bad as they throw the same codes even when I switch them around. I don't understand how there would be an open or short on the coils. Can you explain what I need to look for?

02-02-2015, 12:09 AM	#20
Bluevitz-rs 1NZ-6spd View User's Garage Drives: '05 6-Spd Vitz RS Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada Posts: 2,967	There could be damage to the wires or connectors for those coils then. Have someone crank the engine while you wiggle those connectors. Sent from my iPod Touch

02-02-2015, 12:10 AM	#21
sebastianroher Drives: 2009 Toyota Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Virginia Beach, Virginia Posts: 46	I will check it out tomorrow and see what happens. I just don't think that they would all be damaged. I can see maybe one, but multiple? What are the odds?

02-02-2015, 12:12 AM	#22
Bluevitz-rs 1NZ-6spd View User's Garage Drives: '05 6-Spd Vitz RS Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada Posts: 2,967	If someone have tried pulling those connectors off by the wires the could have been damaged. Or by using some pliers to pull the connectors off and slipped. Also a good idea to examine for corrosion inside each connection. Sent from my iPod Touch

02-02-2015, 07:45 AM	#24
Bluevitz-rs 1NZ-6spd View User's Garage Drives: '05 6-Spd Vitz RS Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada Posts: 2,967	Yeah except malfunction coils will definitely cause a no start situation. You can unplug the oil control valve and the car will still run as if nothing is wrong.

02-02-2015, 08:18 AM	#26
Bluevitz-rs 1NZ-6spd View User's Garage Drives: '05 6-Spd Vitz RS Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada Posts: 2,967	Cam sensor is essential for starting. So something is wrong with it still that would definitely cause it not to start. Sent from my iPod Touch

02-02-2015, 08:19 AM	#27
Bluevitz-rs 1NZ-6spd View User's Garage Drives: '05 6-Spd Vitz RS Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada Posts: 2,967	Can you see an AC singnal with a basic volt meter I wonder while cranking on that sensor? Sent from my iPod Touch

02-02-2015, 09:37 AM	#29
sebastianroher Drives: 2009 Toyota Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Virginia Beach, Virginia Posts: 46	I thought the old sensor was bad because of the oil coming out of it? I'm going to check the resistance of the crank sensor today at work

02-02-2015, 10:45 AM	#30
sebastianroher Drives: 2009 Toyota Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Virginia Beach, Virginia Posts: 46	Scott, I'm going to buy a cylinder head and have it put on. Any recommendations on head or gaskets?

02-02-2015, 11:11 AM	#32
sebastianroher Drives: 2009 Toyota Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Virginia Beach, Virginia Posts: 46	I was thinking advance? They sell one for $300 cams included you just gotta switch over the VVT module

02-02-2015, 11:48 AM	#34
sebastianroher Drives: 2009 Toyota Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Virginia Beach, Virginia Posts: 46	Lol in that case, you should find me an engine!