Hatch says it's open but it's not

[scumfromohio]

I have an 08 yaris hatchback and lately it's been saying my hatch is open when it's not. And this either kills my battery or requires me to pull my fuse which makes me have to redo all my alarm and stereo settings. Can I somehow unplug the sensor. The door is fine.

[andulong]

How can you tell it is coming from the hatch door? I get the same light for all doors when they are open. Just curious.

[scumfromohio]

Because the dome light doesn't come on the interior lights in the back do. Plus if I wiggle the hatch I can get it to warning too go on and off.

[nortonfb]

Sounds like it would be switch adjustment or it's an intermittent contact since if you wiggle it and it goes off.
Norton

[CTScott]

The hatch switch is inside of the hatch lock assembly. If you pull off the inside panel you can get at it. also, check to see if the loop that the hatch latches to is loose.

[scumfromohio]

I took the inside panel off unplugged the blue pin connecter that didn't shut it off. I turned the loop that didn't work. Cleaned the sensors really well Im just taking the fuse out everytime im not driving for now any other suggestions?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by scumfromohio

I took the inside panel off unplugged the blue pin connecter that didn't shut it off. I turned the loop that didn't work. Cleaned the sensors really well Im just taking the fuse out everytime im not driving for now any other suggestions?

With the connector off, does the light in the hatch area still come on?

[scumfromohio]

Yeah it sure does I was super confused too and the dashboard light stays on to

[nortonfb]

Is that a normally open or closed switch?
Where is the sw and is it mechanical?
Norton

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by scumfromohio

Yeah it sure does I was super confused too and the dashboard light stays on to

That is very strange. The brown wire gets grounded (connected the the white/black wire) to make the light come on.

So, either that brown wire is shorted between the light and the hatch, or the wire that feeds the body ECU the door open signal is shorted. That wire runs from a junction connector by the light up under the dash.

For the heck of it, pull off connector 4A from the under-dash fuse panel and see if it then works properly.

[jcboy]

for what it's worth, I sure hope it's scott's first guess--that the wire is just grounded even before it gets to the mechanically grounding switch on the lock.

[scumfromohio]

Well it has something to do with it being super cold out and getting warm I think. I live in northeast Ohio, this was coldest winter we've had in a while.. Do Monday it was like 5 degrees. Tuesday like 30s and rainy and rainy. Today it was 40 and it went back to normal. I've thought back to the previous times it happened and I'm almost positive it was the same circumstances. I think the sensor was thawing maybe I dunno. I'll keep Scott's suggestion in mind if it happens again!

[scumfromohio]

Originally Posted by CTScott

That is very strange. The brown wire gets grounded (connected the the white/black wire) to make the light come on.

So, either that brown wire is shorted between the light and the hatch, or the wire that feeds the body ECU the door open signal is shorted. That wire runs from a junction connector by the light up under the dash.

For the heck of it, pull off connector 4A from the under-dash fuse panel and see if it then works properly.

When I pull the connector it turns out the dash light but the lights in the back stay on which is the main problem. Also when I pull the ecu-b fuse it turns that off as well. But same result leaves back lights on, like lights in the hatch.

[scumfromohio]

Update after leaving the ecu-b fuse out all night and putting it back in the light in the dash is out for good. But the lights in the back behind the seats are staying in. So I'm still pulling out the another fuse to keep the battery alive