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Old 05-12-2014, 11:33 AM   #361
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Thanks, I'll post how it went after the weekend. If they did snap I wouldn't be able to remove the sub frame and drive to my mechanic and get him to weld a nut to the broken bolt would I? I'm assuming I'd have to pay him to remove the subframe to get access to the bolt?
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Old 05-12-2014, 11:43 AM   #362
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Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
Thanks, I'll post how it went after the weekend. If they did snap I wouldn't be able to remove the sub frame and drive to my mechanic and get him to weld a nut to the broken bolt would I? I'm assuming I'd have to pay him to remove the subframe to get access to the bolt?
You can't drive with the subframe removed, but you can drive with the broken bolt(s). There are quite a few more bolts that hold the subframe to the chassis. You don't actually have to completely remove the subframe to get at the broken bolt; you just need to lower it a few inches. To completely remove it you have to disconnect the steering column from the steering rack.
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Old 05-12-2014, 03:06 PM   #363
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thanks for the clarification. I'll cross my fingers and hope there is still some strength left in the bolt head.
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Old 05-12-2014, 10:45 PM   #364
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Did my bolts about a week ago. I was very lucky... it's an '07 hatchback that spent all it's life in NY state.... lots of salt, and both of them came out w/o breaking!!!!!
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Old 05-19-2014, 12:01 AM   #365
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I just did my bolts earlier today. My passenger side was in better shape and looked like Mongooses in the above image. My driver side bolt was very rusted and one more winter and it would have likely snapped. I am lucky to get them out in one piece, and about double the amount of crap came out from each screw hole then in the image above.

I coated the new bolts in a boat load of grease and installed. I will now be checking them after every winter (Southern Ontario - massive amounts of salt applied to roads) and re coating them in grease. It will be interesting to see how they hold up with the grease.

On a side note I also checked my valve clearance today. Not due to any excessive noise but more because my Yaris has 118,000 km on it and I wanted to inspect sludge build up and learn more about working on my car.

All the valves were right in the middle of their clearance ranges and my engine was spotless, absolutely no build up at all. FWIW I change my oil every 8,000km usually put in Canadian Tire Formula1 synthetic (always use synthetic since I got the car at 87,000km) and a general oil filter. I cleaned out the PCV valve as well with throttle body cleaner although it was rattling fine.

One thing I noticed was my number 1 spark plug hole looked like some oil or something had burned inside. The spark plug connector was dirty, the hole had a little dark burned dry oil on it and my spark plug had oil not on the igniter or threads but on the ceramic white part where the metal ring is. I changed the plugs when I got the car and I have never spilled oil on the engine and the other plug holes were all completely dry and clean. any ideas to what could have caused this? I checked my valve cover gasket it still very pliable and in good shape. I changed the spark plug just in case as I haven't noticed any performance or firing issues.

thanks in advance
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Old 06-23-2014, 04:19 AM   #366
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Originally Posted by Hershey View Post
" I would really like to see one of the bolts that has failed on someone's car. "

Would be nice to see a picture of the snaaped off bolt . Very slim chance .

" With the size of the bolts I don't believe that they can rust deep enough to weaken enough to fail. I have a funny feeling that the bolts in question have an issue where they were made either too soft or too brittle. "
Dont know if anyone showed one (snapped off bolt head), but here it is on our car, Right side (passenger). Made the noise took it to our mechanic who showed it to us and told us to go to toyota with the letter. We are hoping they cover it with the letter today. They sched it a 1pm (half day off work) hope it takes the hour and half they claim in letter???
Our local mechanic noticed the a/c drains right onto it. hmm? I live NE usa. This car has 50k on it 08 sedan yaris. The other side has a rusted regular looking bolt on the same bar. Not sure it they cover it. I bet they wont pull the same one on other side, I fear the head wont rust but the bolt will like mongoose pic above. Incidentally there seems to be a fair amt of rust on the bar near bolts on drivers side too, guess they wont cover it tho".

EDITED TO SAY: today my car is at a toyota dealer, they are giving us a loaner saying the car is not safe. They cov'd it in full both bolts and even fixed the seat adjuster recall, but the seat is harder to work now, must do it two handed on each side of front bottom of it. OH and the did a realignment since it got complicated getting the sheared off bolt out. Im very grateful had a great toyota dealer experience :) Ive had much worse at other types of dealers in the past.
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Last edited by kaz777; 06-24-2014 at 09:21 PM. Reason: UPDATE
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Old 06-23-2014, 06:18 AM   #367
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Wondering anyone else had the TSB performed on their yaris and removed to inspect the bolts? And if so, how was the condition... I am planning to inspect mine. Hoping the tsb helped in keeping the corrosive salt away from the bolts on mine ...
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Old 06-23-2014, 02:33 PM   #368
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cb900: what is tsb, I thought it was a notice that this was a problem, how would it protect the corrosion from happening? If there is something they can do to protect the bolts from corrosion I want it done!?
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Old 06-23-2014, 03:48 PM   #369
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Technical Service Bulletin.
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Old 06-23-2014, 10:50 PM   #370
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duplicate reply sorry

Last edited by kaz777; 06-24-2014 at 09:24 PM. Reason: duplicate delayed reply
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Old 06-24-2014, 03:39 AM   #371
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thanks. I dont diy tho' so its up to toyota to cover what they will but its helpful to read those.
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Old 06-24-2014, 10:07 AM   #372
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I accid had a duplicate reply, delayed posts. Sorry. BTW they fixed my car bolts both, even tho one was sheared off, they also fixed the seat adjust thing on drivers side that is a recall or enhancement w/o me even telling them too. I got a loaner car on them (brand new corolla) I was very impressed w/ their service had worse experiences at past dealers of other makes.
The seat works harder now but if its safer ok.

Last edited by kaz777; 06-24-2014 at 09:24 PM. Reason: dup
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Old 12-04-2014, 10:04 PM   #373
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I stumbled across this thread and now I'm thinking I better do this! I got the letter about a year ago and forgot all about it.
I think I'll try to get them out myself. I'm wondering why no one has thought to try and find better bolts.. something that has more resistance to corrosion.. like stainless steel maybe? What do you all think? Does stainless torque well? Will it hold the 118 ft/lbs?
Any input is appreciated.
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Old 12-05-2014, 06:24 AM   #374
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Originally Posted by CueBall View Post
I stumbled across this thread and now I'm thinking I better do this! I got the letter about a year ago and forgot all about it.
I think I'll try to get them out myself. I'm wondering why no one has thought to try and find better bolts.. something that has more resistance to corrosion.. like stainless steel maybe? What do you all think? Does stainless torque well? Will it hold the 118 ft/lbs?
Any input is appreciated.
Stainless is too brittle for this application.
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Old 12-08-2014, 02:31 PM   #375
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Well the 07 sedan has been through many southern Ontario winters and I'm afraid to try and take the bolts out. My plan is to drill a drainage hole, and using the straw, spray oil on the threads of the bolt. It would have to be done periodically, but it might save the bolt from furthur corrosion. I see this as a better option than trying to remove it and breaking it for certain.
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Old 12-09-2014, 05:16 AM   #376
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SS Too Brittle?

Quote:
Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
Stainless is too brittle for this application.
Just curious, what was the source of the information that stainless is too brittle for this application? That seems to imply quite a bit of motion/flex at this joint.
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Old 12-09-2014, 06:03 AM   #377
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Just curious, what was the source of the information that stainless is too brittle for this application? That seems to imply quite a bit of motion/flex at this joint.
The bolt is mounted in a metal tube that is then suspended in dense rubber so that the control arm can move, so there is definitely flex at that joint. The right blend of stainless would be fine, but off the shelf bolts would be more brittle of a stainless blend then would be appropriate.
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Old 12-09-2014, 01:05 PM   #378
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Well the 07 sedan has been through many southern Ontario winters and I'm afraid to try and take the bolts out. My plan is to drill a drainage hole, and using the straw, spray oil on the threads of the bolt. It would have to be done periodically, but it might save the bolt from furthur corrosion. I see this as a better option than trying to remove it and breaking it for certain.
Id be afraid if its that far gone it will break all by itself.
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