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01-21-2013, 12:11 AM | #19 |
Drives: 2007 Yaris hatch Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 11
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Hopefully this isn't the case. I'll know right away, as the lifters are marked with a number corresponding to their length. If I'm lucky, there will be at least one or two in there that will get me where I need to be with my adjustment.
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01-21-2013, 12:21 AM | #20 |
Drives: 2007 Yaris LB Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: E. Oregon
Posts: 130
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If you know the size of the shims, the diameter, not the thickness, say 10mm. Check with a motorcycle shop for a kit. You can get a variety of sizes for about $25:
http://www.cyclebuy.com/shopping/hot...imkits_100.htm
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2007 LB W/Cold Wx Package |
01-21-2013, 12:31 AM | #21 | |
Asshole
Drives: 2012 and 2013! Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Your moms house.
Posts: 392
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Quote:
Even IF they were marked, the numbers would be irrelevant due to wear, as you need to measure the gap, then the actual thickness of the lifter bucket, do the math for optimal gap, read the chart to see which replacement you will need.
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01-21-2013, 12:32 AM | #22 | |
Asshole
Drives: 2012 and 2013! Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Your moms house.
Posts: 392
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Quote:
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Cheapest DD I could find!! |
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01-21-2013, 12:36 AM | #23 | |
Asshole
Drives: 2012 and 2013! Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Your moms house.
Posts: 392
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Quote:
Have you considered a bad VVT solenoid? Check your clearances first, at the cost of a valve cover gasket, You might be surprised. There are 35 not 50, and they run $12 a piece not $25.
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Cheapest DD I could find!! |
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01-22-2013, 07:32 AM | #24 | |
Drives: 2007 Yaris hatch Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 11
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Quote:
I do plan to check the valve clearances...just having trouble making time for it at the moment. I'm trying to plan for the worst based on the way the car is behaving. I was quoted $25 by the dealership where I purchased the car. Last edited by peckerhead; 01-22-2013 at 07:48 AM. |
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01-22-2013, 07:44 AM | #25 | |
Drives: 2007 Yaris hatch Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 11
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Quote:
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01-22-2013, 08:41 AM | #26 |
Drives: 2010 black yaris Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: savannah, ga
Posts: 2,868
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http://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%9...1u/a040001.pdf
Absolutely Red is correct. These motors do not use replacable shims. gotta take the cam out to replace the lifters or buckets as some like to call them. If it is worse when it is hot, I would think that would rule out valve clearances or cam lobes being worn.. metal expands. So under cold conditions the valve clearance is at its max and would cause more tapping and not opening the valves enough. After it has gotten to operating tempature is would be less noticable.
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01-22-2013, 10:46 AM | #27 | |
Asshole
Drives: 2012 and 2013! Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Your moms house.
Posts: 392
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Quote:
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Cheapest DD I could find!! |
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01-23-2013, 05:02 PM | #28 |
Drives: 2007 Yaris hatch Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 11
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01-23-2013, 05:13 PM | #29 |
Asshole
Drives: 2012 and 2013! Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Your moms house.
Posts: 392
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35 different sizes.
No, the factory ones are not all the same, they are sized to fit from the 35 available, at the factory.
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Cheapest DD I could find!! |
01-27-2013, 07:12 AM | #30 |
Drives: 07 Yaris 3dr, 09 Yaris 4dr Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Pennsylvania, USA
Posts: 17
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Civility, Decorum Needed
Those of you commenting on this thread should please stop your squabbling. Whoever needs to adjust their valves, kindly do so and share relevant occurances during the proceedure. I started this thread in order to disseminate technical information as opposed to a bickering forum.
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01-27-2013, 09:05 AM | #31 |
Only Happy When it Rains
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rofl. this is a discussion. no insults have been thrown. don't be so thin skinned.
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01-24-2014, 12:30 AM | #32 |
Drives: yaris sedan vios Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Philippines
Posts: 7
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learned a lot from these posts.
i think a need my valve lifters replaced. when engine is hot, sound is clearly audible like a diesel engine on idle. |
01-24-2014, 10:51 AM | #33 |
Drives: 2010 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: the good Carolina
Posts: 173
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These are loud, clattery engines. If you are getting good mileage and not smoking or fouling out plugs and no codes, then it is merely a shadow shark/land shark effect. Get dynamat and place it all over.
From my experience, there will be anywhere from one to a handful of good techs that work at dealers, that can do the diagnosis when needed. I am a good tech, not the best and far from the worst. I am not afraid to tackle most things, but there are a few things I won't try and tackle like rebuilding a trans for one. I am in a highly populated area, and there are more than a handful of people I would trust with my car. But, I can count em all on two hands or less. But, I don't know em all either. I work at Ford, but have experience on too many make and models. I am one of those techs you can trust on your car and there are some out there for you as well. Good luck in your quest(s). (and actually, I wouldn't trust too many aftermarket places, especially boxes or chains) There are some good dealers to go too, and some good mom and pops, and typically a good mom and pop had dealer experience first. Working in a dealer on and off over too long a period of time, we, at dealers, get a handful of stuff, that others cannot diagnose. So, it is typical and understandable, the frustration, and is expected. After all, we are hated for being expensive, but then loved when we are the only ones to fix it right, but then only briefly. Remember, the worst thing one wants to do is get their teeth worked on, followed second by getting their car worked on. Did you know, that 22% of women want to sleep with their mechanic ? Ok, I am ranting. But, good luck with your quest(s).
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2010 Yaris sedan, TRD CAT back (sport muffler only, really), OBX header (relocated front AF sensor to front pipe), OBX throttle plate spacer, K&N filter (in stock air box-for now), TRD struts and shocks, Mexico Rough Road Springs x 4, new Yota sway bar links front, slotted/drilled rotors and Maxx brakes front, Valvoline synthetic brake fluid, 3M undercoated, 16" Konig Feathers Michelin Pilot Sport AS 3 + Tires TRD rear sway bar, 4 GT Spec bars including: front strut brace 2 point, 4 point ladder brace, mid chassis brace and rear lower tie brace, rear hitch, [B] |
01-24-2014, 11:00 AM | #34 |
Drives: 2010 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: the good Carolina
Posts: 173
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An example. A repair shop chain. I had 50 of em as district dude. Out of all stores, I was a top 5 tech. Scary stuff. So, learn to fix yourself, or mechanic shop around. PM people near you, maybe they can direct you.
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2010 Yaris sedan, TRD CAT back (sport muffler only, really), OBX header (relocated front AF sensor to front pipe), OBX throttle plate spacer, K&N filter (in stock air box-for now), TRD struts and shocks, Mexico Rough Road Springs x 4, new Yota sway bar links front, slotted/drilled rotors and Maxx brakes front, Valvoline synthetic brake fluid, 3M undercoated, 16" Konig Feathers Michelin Pilot Sport AS 3 + Tires TRD rear sway bar, 4 GT Spec bars including: front strut brace 2 point, 4 point ladder brace, mid chassis brace and rear lower tie brace, rear hitch, [B] |
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