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Old 08-10-2019, 10:26 PM   #19
tmontague
 
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Originally Posted by RMcG View Post
Thanks tmontague,

Do you think that ceramic coating (or synthetic wax) will protect underlying paint even if the clear coat has peeled off? Is there a particular brand of ceramic coating (or synthetic wax) that you (or others) prefer? (Some ceramic coatings are pretty expensive.)

My time is limited, so I may use ceramic coating or some other wipe on product for the time being, (like, e.g., a highly rated Consumer Reports wax like Nu-Finish or Meguiar's, the CR rating hopefully includes synthetic waxes) and then look into spray bombs for the base coat and a catalyzed 2K clear coat as recommended by 06YarisRS below for later.

R.
It will definitely help protect what is under it but I don't know what it will look like in the end.

I have used CQuarts UK and I am a big fan of it
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Old 08-11-2019, 09:00 PM   #20
RMcG
 
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Originally Posted by 06YarisRS View Post
I would sand all of the peeling clearcoat away and a good inch or two into the good clearcoat. I would also apply a high build primer before the base coat. You'll want to sand with an absolute minimum of 400 - preferably 600 - before spraying the base coat. I would not use anything finer as you are looking for a good mechanical bond. No sanding of the base coat before clear coat and I would apply 3 - 4 coats of base (the first two should literally be dustings as this will help eliminate any adverse reactions between your primer and base) a few minutes apart and within 20 minutes, at least 3 coats of clear, maybe 10 minutes apart, depending on heat and humidity conditions at the time. Oh, an although I'm not a religious type, "cleanliness is next to godliness". Invest in some tack cloths to use between your primer and base, and base and clear. Degrease and tackcloth after sanding primer and tackcloth only between base and clear

What would be most beneficial is if you took pics of all sections concerned and posted them here. That would give a much better idea of approach. I also have some tips that I will share with you if you do this; one of which is laying the metallic base coat in a uniform way with an orientation coat. Metallics look really bad if the flakes aren't evenly dispersed and uniformily oriented. It just too easy to get tiger stripes and blotches that become abundantly apparent, especially in the sunshine.

I could not find any reference to FB18, only Bayou Blue Metallic (8T1).
Thanks for your reply 06YarisRS,

I have attached pictures. I figured out the Toyota Color code is 8T1, not FB18.

As you can see, in addition to the extensive peeling of the clear coat, the car suffered some damage from a hail storm (some pock marks in the roof and a pock mark with a resulting crease & some rust in a panel over the front passenger window) that I feel I did not have the money to repair. This was the worst hailstorm I have ever experienced: it was like somebody swinging a ball-peen hammer with both hands as hard as they could each time a hail stone hit. It's a wonder it did not do more damage.

Any comments from 06YarisRS or anybody else are would be welcomed.

(P.S. : I have used the convention that "left" and "right" for the vehicle refer to the same left and right of a driver sitting in the car for the titles of the photos, but that may not be relevant, since the titles don't seem to have come through on uploading the photos.)

Thanks,

R.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg CloseupRoof#1.jpg (284.1 KB, 33 views)
File Type: jpg CloseupRoof#2.jpg (357.4 KB, 33 views)
File Type: jpg CloseupRoof#3-Windshield&FrontOnLeft.jpg (259.6 KB, 33 views)
File Type: jpg Left Side Mid Front Roof.jpg (367.4 KB, 33 views)
File Type: jpg Panel Between Roof & Left Rear Window.jpg (288.3 KB, 33 views)
File Type: jpg Rear Roof and Panel from left.jpg (368.6 KB, 33 views)
File Type: jpg Right front roof & crease from hail stone.jpg (300.5 KB, 33 views)
File Type: jpg Roof & Hail Pockmarks.jpg (321.0 KB, 33 views)
File Type: jpg Roof.jpg (326.8 KB, 33 views)
File Type: jpg Roof-over-rear-window.jpg (289.4 KB, 33 views)
File Type: jpg Left rear panel.jpg (296.3 KB, 33 views)
File Type: jpg Midrear panel.jpg (311.5 KB, 33 views)
File Type: jpg Right rear panel.jpg (313.8 KB, 33 views)
File Type: jpg Topview Mirror.jpg (330.9 KB, 33 views)

Last edited by RMcG; 08-11-2019 at 09:10 PM.
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Old 08-11-2019, 09:15 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
It will definitely help protect what is under it but I don't know what it will look like in the end.

I have used CQuarts UK and I am a big fan of it
Thanks tmontague,

I have included photos in another post in this thread. For the time being, I may just want to protect the paint as much as possible over the upcoming winter and not worry about appearance for now. And then try for a more long term solution, like the one advocated by others, like DIY painting/DIY clear coating or DIY plasti-dipping. I really don't have the money, nor the inclination to spend on a professional paint or clear coat job.

Thanks again,

R.
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Old 08-11-2019, 09:23 PM   #22
06YarisRS
 
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Well, it's definitely repairable albiet a little more extensive than I had expected. The roof would have to be completely repainted, but you have natural boundary lines there and, because it's essentially perpendicular to the other panels, a slight difference in color/texture would be less noticeable. You would probably want to feather the paint down into the A-pillar a bit. The liftgate would likely have to be blended into the rear quarter panels a bit with some feathering of the base coat. But, you might get away with painting just the liftgate. I guess it all depends on the quality of job you're looking for. Removing all the bits and pieces on the liftgate is pretty easy and you'd certainly want to do that.

Is there any chance that a friend/relative has a garage that you could do this in? You wouldn't need a full booth, just somewhere out of the wind, given the size of the panels you're tackling. The roof is a very large area and would be highly susceptible to contamination.

You are going to need a fair bit of material for this job. I painted my entire car with about 1.5 - 2 quarts (including 50% reducer) of basecoat and about 1 gallon of clear coat.

I would buy at least three full size aerosol color-matched basecoat and likely 4 - 5 cans of the SprayMax, but you'd want to calculate a little more carefully.

BTW, my car too suffered what appeared to be hail damage. It was contained to the roof and there were 4 - 5 good sized pock marks. Since I was repainting the car anyway, I just filled them with bondo and sanded them nice and flat before priming.
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Last edited by 06YarisRS; 08-11-2019 at 09:35 PM.
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Old 08-13-2019, 07:34 PM   #23
RMcG
 
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Originally Posted by 06YarisRS View Post
Well, it's definitely repairable albiet a little more extensive than I had expected. The roof would have to be completely repainted, but you have natural boundary lines there and, because it's essentially perpendicular to the other panels, a slight difference in color/texture would be less noticeable. You would probably want to feather the paint down into the A-pillar a bit. The liftgate would likely have to be blended into the rear quarter panels a bit with some feathering of the base coat. But, you might get away with painting just the liftgate. I guess it all depends on the quality of job you're looking for. Removing all the bits and pieces on the liftgate is pretty easy and you'd certainly want to do that.

Is there any chance that a friend/relative has a garage that you could do this in? You wouldn't need a full booth, just somewhere out of the wind, given the size of the panels you're tackling. The roof is a very large area and would be highly susceptible to contamination.

You are going to need a fair bit of material for this job. I painted my entire car with about 1.5 - 2 quarts (including 50% reducer) of basecoat and about 1 gallon of clear coat.

I would buy at least three full size aerosol color-matched basecoat and likely 4 - 5 cans of the SprayMax, but you'd want to calculate a little more carefully.

BTW, my car too suffered what appeared to be hail damage. It was contained to the roof and there were 4 - 5 good sized pock marks. Since I was repainting the car anyway, I just filled them with bondo and sanded them nice and flat before priming.
Thanks 06YarisRS,

Yes I do have a relative with a garage, so I may be able to talk them in to letting me use the garage. In order to try to understand better the requirements, 1) how long would a paint job take in your estimation? I suppose I could do it in increments, and not all at once.

In addition, 2) is there a temperature range I need to shoot for? I am presently in the Pacific Northwest of the US, so it generally does not get terribly hot or cold here, regardless of the season.

3) You mention sanding (above & in a previous post), would it be realistic to just hand sand, or would I realistically need some kind of sander?

4) You also say, "you'd want to calculate a little more carefully". what is the calculation in terms of area per can of paint and clear coat?

Based on what you said above, it looks like the cost for paint and clear coat would be about $150 to $200. Does that sound correct?

Thanks,

R.

Last edited by RMcG; 08-13-2019 at 07:48 PM.
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Old 08-13-2019, 08:46 PM   #24
06YarisRS
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RMcG View Post
Thanks 06YarisRS,

Yes I do have a relative with a garage, so I may be able to talk them in to letting me use the garage. In order to try to understand better the requirements, 1) how long would a paint job take in your estimation? I suppose I could do it in increments, and not all at once.

In addition, 2) is there a temperature range I need to shoot for? I am presently in the Pacific Northwest of the US, so it generally does not get terribly hot or cold here, regardless of the season.

3) You mention sanding (above & in a previous post), would it be realistic to just hand sand, or would I realistically need some kind of sander?

4) You also say, "you'd want to calculate a little more carefully". what is the calculation in terms of area per can of paint and clear coat?

Based on what you said above, it looks like the cost for paint and clear coat would be about $150 to $200. Does that sound correct?

Thanks,

R.
Hey. I'll get back to you tomorrow with responses to your questions, but, yes, you can do it in stages.

Edit: I'll share my thoughts on a couple of your questions tonight.

2) I think as long as you're over 60 F you should be fine. It was terribly hot and humid the day I painted my car. I had condensation develop in my compressor. You won't have to worry about that. Above 60, your off gassing times between coats wll just be a bit shorter. Your paints should have Instructions on them.

3) hand sanding is time consuming. I would pick up a cheap palm sander if you don't already have one. If you do use a high build primer, you can block sand manually. We could talk about that a bit later if you move forward with the project.

4) I would just do some rough measurements and calculate the approximate surface area. Your product cans will give you a sense of single coat coverage. I would think that a couple hundred $ should be close to your anticipated costs, less some extras like sandpaper (400 -600 grit for before base coat and 1500 and 2500 for wetsanding your cured clearcoat), a block sanding block, a palm sander (if needed to be purchased), a solvent such as lacquer thinner, tack cloths, painters tape etc.

More to follow...
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2008 Yaris LE H&R 10mm spacers (rear), RS rear spoiler
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Last edited by 06YarisRS; 08-14-2019 at 12:02 AM.
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Old 08-17-2019, 12:47 AM   #25
RMcG
 
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Originally Posted by 06YarisRS View Post
Well, it's definitely repairable albiet a little more extensive than I had expected. ........ You would probably want to feather the paint down into the A-pillar a bit. The liftgate would likely have to be blended into the rear quarter panels a bit with some feathering of the base coat. But, you might get away with painting just the liftgate. I guess it all depends on the quality of job you're looking for.
06YarisRS,

I appreciate your advice. Can you give a little more detail on how to do the feathering or blending?

Thanks,

R.
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Old 08-19-2019, 10:27 PM   #26
06YarisRS
 
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Originally Posted by RMcG View Post
06YarisRS,

I appreciate your advice. Can you give a little more detail on how to do the feathering or blending?

Thanks,

R.
Sure. The idea of feathering the basecoat is to create a gradient that blends the color over a distance so that the change in color (there will be one as the paint is never a perfect match) becomes unnoticeable. You an do this by pulling the can away as you reach the end of your pass, or you can roll the can away from being perpendicular to the panel by twisting or flicking your wrist. You are essentially applying lots of paint at the area of damage and fading away (applying paint more thinly the farther you get from the damage). Once you have adequately covered (created your gradient), you mist the gradient.This will give a more uniform finish and the metallics will line up better.

So in summary, you don't paint to the edge of any panel, but blend over a distance. Now, you will clear coat the entire panel, otherwise you will have a different texture and reflectivity. Wet sanding and polishing the clear coat - especially with a high quality product such as SprayMax - will result in great gloss and depth.

Here is a video. I was mistaken earlier as I did not do what is technically an orientation coat. I did what I referred to as misting the panel. Because spray can spray patterns are much narrower than a spray gun, the paint is more prone to striping.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4fvSA27QrWI
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2008 Yaris LE H&R 10mm spacers (rear), RS rear spoiler
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Last edited by 06YarisRS; 08-19-2019 at 11:07 PM.
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