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Old 10-15-2019, 10:36 AM   #1
longlivekel
 
Drives: Rover Mini S
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: KC Missouri
Posts: 74
Electrical Journey Seeking Electrical Guru Advice

Hello Everyone,
Not sure if this is the right place to post this... Please relocate if need be!

I sold my yaris quite some time ago, but my project car holds the heart of a 1nz. This thread could go south fast or could reveal a lot of headaches on my end. I have a 60s Mazda Carol that I have completely re-engineered and am trying to pump life into it for the first time. I grabbed a complete engine, body harness, and ECU from a 2000 5spd Toyota echo. The car didn't have an immobilizer box of any sort, I didn't see a security light anywhere, so I assumed it did not have a transponder setup. This doesn't mean I assumed right and is why I am here looking for help.
I stripped all of the electrical stuff that I didn’t need and connected the essentials. On the ecm I deleted the following: a/c setup, power steering sensor , htr relay, vsv, evap purge valve, abs, ptc, and cooling fan.
As of now, the car will crank and not start. Since the troubleshooting has gone on for a while now, I am going to list what I have checked..
- Checked voltage at Fuel Injectors
- Made sure correct connectors were hooked up for the coils and injectors by checking continuity to ecu
- Checked continuity between injectors and ecm
- Checked continuity, voltage, and functionality of all coils. (when laying coil out on block with plug, there is spark)
- Check the plugs and a couple of the plugs seem to have a little bit of fuel on them after cranking
- Fuel pump is getting power and humming away when key on and cranking
- Ecu, engine, relays, and body grounds show all good continuity.
- Checked the continuity and voltage for the Crank sensor, 02 sensors, knock sensor, Maf sensor. All tests are perfect according to the Toyota Electrical book
- Checked that the ecu is getting proper voltage to the E4-1 and E4-12 at the ECU
- EFI, COPN, and Starter Relay all energizing and properly passing voltage to the proper pins mapped out in the electrical book
- Engine was reported with a good compression check when I bought it, I am going to do this again just in case.
Now with all of this said, I might have left out some stuff due to the overwhelming head scratching.
Anyone have an idea or suggestions, please feel free to toss it out there!



Last edited by longlivekel; 10-15-2019 at 11:00 AM.
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Old 10-15-2019, 11:35 AM   #2
Brighton
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Do you have the pin out on the ECU? You might need to trace back every single wire to make sure it's going where it's supposed to. Also was the donor car wrecked? If so, it might have triggered something in the ECU to not let it start.
You might have mentioned it but do you get spark with the coil and plug out of the cylinder? You might have weak or no spark under compression
It wouldn't hurt to add more grounds (Chassis to engine, Battery to Chassis and Battery to Engine) That electrical system was designed for the chassis it was in, so you might need to add more to get it to cooperate with the new chassis.
Lastly do a compression test at WOT with fuel off. The engine will be cold so expect lower numbers then factory spec.
Also why isn't the top chopped? It'd look awesome!
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Old 10-15-2019, 12:07 PM   #3
longlivekel
 
Drives: Rover Mini S
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: KC Missouri
Posts: 74
The donor car was wrecked and I have a second ECu that came out of a 2000 as well that wasn't wrecked. Both yield the same results. I am getting spark when i use a spare plug and lay it out over the block. I didn't think about the extra grounds. I currently have 3 on the head, 1 main on the trans, 1 main on block, 3 ecm grounds, then all other items are grounded through the battery and/or body.
As for ECU pin out, I do have one and the official Toyota Electrical book. Along with the electrical book for a 2002 echo.

ALSO: No CEL yet... I find this one strange.

Pin out:
https://ecomodder.com/mediawiki/imag...01_Echo_p1.jpg
https://ecomodder.com/mediawiki/imag...01_Echo_p2.jpg

Last edited by longlivekel; 10-15-2019 at 12:30 PM.
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Old 10-15-2019, 12:35 PM   #4
Brighton
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That's a tough one, you might want to find a tuner to look through the ECU. I THINK these ECUs are programmable so if that's the case, you should be able to connect to it and see what it's doing. Also, I don't think it's a mechanical issue but did you check the timing to see if it skipped in the wreck?
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Old 10-15-2019, 12:56 PM   #5
longlivekel
 
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I didn't check the timing, cause I figured that it would of been okay. The car was hit in the side and not the front. I currently have a live feed OBD2 wifi reader that shows activity and codes. Ill see what i can record or see, while someone is cranking it. Also i ordered a new Crank shaft sensor. It dawned on me that I took the old one out and cleaned the seal up due to a slight drip. Possibly damaged while sitting on the pallet.

Last edited by longlivekel; 10-15-2019 at 01:29 PM.
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Old 10-16-2019, 06:29 AM   #6
longlivekel
 
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Brigthon-
You said check the timing.. I noticed something stupid on my part.. The engine is backwards and i placed the injectors/coils connectors in pattern 4321. Swapped them and it started up! Now.... it ran briefly and then started making a horrible noise.

https://youtu.be/AV-wf757KbE
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Old 10-16-2019, 09:10 AM   #7
Brighton
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That could just be dry lifters. Sounds like a top end noise so I'd guess that engines been sitting for a few months or was stored dry and the oil drained out of the lifters/top end. Not super uncommon issue and I wouldn't be super concerned with it, just monitor it and maybe put in some thin oil additive like Marvel and then let it idle a bit. I just got a car out of storage last week and did the exact same thing, took a few sessions of driving it for 5-10 minutes with marvel in the oil to get it to shut up.
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Old 10-16-2019, 10:12 AM   #8
longlivekel
 
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The engine has been sitting for 6 years. I rotated it every month or so so it wouldn't seize.
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Old 10-16-2019, 03:50 PM   #9
Brighton
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Yeah that is even more reason why the lifters would be dry/collapsed. If you are really worried about it you can prelube/pressurize the oil system. I don't know where you can connect it to this engine to do that but it can be done with a homedepot garden sprayer and the right fitting the thread it into an oil galley of the engine. Also wouldn't hurt to pull the valve cover and coat all of the valve train with oil.
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Old 10-17-2019, 11:26 AM   #10
longlivekel
 
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Welp.. I did quite a few extra procedures yesterday. The engine almost seized up. Its coming from the oil pump area. Hard to hand crank even with no plugs in the engine.
Good compression, zero oil in the valve cover area, and screeching is coming from the harmonic balancer area. Time to look for another engine.....
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Old 10-17-2019, 04:16 PM   #11
Brighton
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Depending how long you ran it and at what rpm, you might not have done permanent damage. Put an ounce or two of marvel mystery oil in each cylinder and let it sit a few days, then once it's had time to soak, try to rotate it over by hand. If you still have resistance when you turn it over by hand with the plugs out, you've probably stuck the rings or bearings so the engine is dead. BUT if it loosens back up after soaking in marvel then I'd suspect only minor damage. Drag cars heat seize occasionally too, and some of those can be loosened up and run again, so no reason this engine can't.
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Old 10-17-2019, 04:53 PM   #12
06YarisRS
 
Drives: 06 2ZR Turbo Yaris RS
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I was at a local dyno shop weekend event this past weekend. They sold tickets for a fund raiser that involved putting a brick on the gas pedal of a GMC Envoy after draining the oil and coolant. The engine ran for 20 minutes before seizing. The next morning they went out and it started on the first turn and ran. Obviously the engine was toast, but it was impressive how much it tolerated.

I hope you get things sorted out because this looks like a great project. It's too bad you don't live closer as I have a 1NZ in my garage. It does have higher mileage than you'd probably want - around 180 000kms, but ran great, used no oil and was quiet as the 1NZ goes.

Do you have a stethoscope? It's hard to tell from the video in your other post, but could it be rod knock? If you can get it running again, and get under the car, you could probably find out if it's coming from the bottom end. Also, I know that some of the accessories on these cars can make a real racket when they fail. I put a used A/C compressor on my swapped corolla engine. It was bad and it sounded like the bottom was coming out of my engine. I replaced the compressor and all the clacking and tapping went away.
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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer
https://www.instagram.com/2zr_turbo_yarisrs/

Last edited by 06YarisRS; 10-17-2019 at 05:07 PM.
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Old 10-18-2019, 12:39 PM   #13
longlivekel
 
Drives: Rover Mini S
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: KC Missouri
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06YarisRs-
The engine is having a very hard time turning over due to the screeching noise and this is with no belt on the engine. Its so bad that im scared that something might soon blow out the block...
SO.. i bought an engine from LKQ.. i should have it in 10 business days : )
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Old 10-18-2019, 03:32 PM   #14
06YarisRS
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by longlivekel View Post
06YarisRs-
The engine is having a very hard time turning over due to the screeching noise and this is with no belt on the engine. Its so bad that im scared that something might soon blow out the block...
SO.. i bought an engine from LKQ.. i should have it in 10 business days : )
I hope you have better luck with your newer engine. I think LQK has a pretty good reputation. I did see a few fairly low mileage 1NZ engines there and their pricing is pretty good. Looking forward to your progress. Your post has inspired me to put some MMO or similar in the cylinders of my 1NZ and turn it over regularly via the crank bolt.
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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer
https://www.instagram.com/2zr_turbo_yarisrs/
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Old 10-21-2019, 09:32 PM   #15
longlivekel
 
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http://www.instagram.com/longlivekel
Feel free to see my other 6 years of labor : )
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Old 10-29-2019, 10:19 PM   #16
06YarisRS
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by longlivekel View Post
http://www.instagram.com/longlivekel
Feel free to see my other 6 years of labor : )
All I can say is, WOW! Some amazing projects there. Great cars and cute cats! Do you do your own metal work, body work and painting? I thoroughly enjoyed perusing your album. Is/was the black mini in your album your car?
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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer
https://www.instagram.com/2zr_turbo_yarisrs/
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