Paint Booth for Full Respray

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by ezhacker1

Does this mean you are venting the fumes straight to atmosphere outside?

Not ideal, but yes. With an HVLP there is apparently less overspray due to high transfer efficiency and therefore less VOCs emitted. I will likely be putting prefilters on my exhaust fans to catch some of the overspray. All of the products that I will be using fall below the VOC emissions limits for my province. Canada has similar regulations to states like California, for example. I'm in a semi-rural area and there's a good distance between us and our neighbours. There are no kids other than mine in the immediate area and mine will be away at day camps when I do any spraying.

[ezhacker1]

Good thing you thought it through, good that you don't live near anyone as well for venting. Our setup was very ghetto and "get it done" style. Even with the tiny air mover the filter was good and clogged, couldn't smell any of clear coat outside of the tent.

I now have a much better air mover and when i paint again, i want to like i said, have the filters surround the blower, (keep particles out of the innards)

[06YarisRS]

Cool! How did your previous paint job turn out?

I did a bit more work on mine today. Basically more sanding, a wash and I removed one door handle. The others will come off tomorrow. I just have to figure out how to open the doors after I remove the handles. Also have to figure out a way to mount my handles to paint them.

[06YarisRS]

I've basically had to remove all of the spray paint I put on the car and bring it back down to factory paint/primer (in spots).

Taping is a very time-consuming process, especially with all of the door gaskets. I would remove them but they appear to be glued in places. One door handle is off and the others come off later today. It took me a while to figure out how to reattach the door handle and make it work again. There's a little pin that rotates down to open the latch. At least I can open the door easily with the handles off. That was initially a concern.

Mud flaps have yet to come off and I'll probably take the liftgate handle off too. Was hoping not to have to wrestle the liftgate cover off again, but, oh well.

Still lots of sanding to do. Then a thorough clean, degrease and after that, the 2K primer. The urge to start spraying now is strong, but I must exercize patience.

I totally get now why a full repaint can be in excess of $3K - $4K.

[WeeYari]

Tedious. I bet you could have removed head and taillights in almost the same amount of time that it took to mask them.

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[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by WeeYari

Tedious. I bet you could have removed head and taillights in almost the same amount of time that it took to mask them.

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You are probably correct. Though, I did removed one headlight before to replace a bulb and found it quite involved - unhooking the front bumper. The taillights I've never done before. But, yes, it probably would have been easier, plus facilitated a better quality spray job.

[WeeYari]

Fronts are much easier once you know the secrets. The rear are dead easy.

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[atomic_hoji]

Great job so far!

Everything I've read says prep work is probably 10x (guestimate) the effort of what you'll put into actually priming and painting, but worth it when you're paint comes out looking great. Nothing shows an amateur (or poor shop) job like paint on trim, seals, windows, etc.. because they did a rush job prepping.

Keep up the great work, can't wait to see the end result!

--Adam

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by WeeYari

Fronts are much easier once you know the secrets. The rear are dead easy.

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Ah ha. I am all ears for the secrets. The rear lights involve a bolt/screw behind trap doors in the rear panels, do they not?

Thanks.

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by atomic_hoji

Great job so far!

Everything I've read says prep work is probably 10x (guestimate) the effort of what you'll put into actually priming and painting, but worth it when you're paint comes out looking great. Nothing shows an amateur (or poor shop) job like paint on trim, seals, windows, etc.. because they did a rush job prepping.

Keep up the great work, can't wait to see the end result!

--Adam

Yes, I've heard too that it's largely in the prep work. One thing I did do was remove the belt moulding - and ruined one in the process. Both front ones were pretty gouged up anyway presumeably by an agressive ice scraper-wielding previous owner. I've ordered a new pair.

I think I'll pop the tail lights off as Wee Yari says they're so easy. If he reveals the secrets about headlight removal, I may do those too. That said, I have them taped pretty well and paint should get in well between the lights and panel edges. Then again, I already have half the interior stripped out of the car anyway.

Thanks!

[WeeYari]

Originally Posted by 06YarisRS

Ah ha. I am all ears for the secrets. The rear lights involve a bolt/screw behind trap doors in the rear panels, do they not?

Thanks.

Well... I really wouldn't say there are any secrets. Just gets easier 2nd + times. Just the 7 push pins and the grip'n'rip on the corners. I still get butterflies every time I yank on it. Swear I'm going to rip the clips to shreds. If you pop the headlights out, you will at least know your not painting over whatever crap may be under the lower edge. Also, you will be able to tuck away the overlap of the fender liner.

Correct on rear.

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[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by WeeYari

Well... I really wouldn't say there are any secrets. Just gets easier 2nd + times. Just the 7 push pins and the grip'n'rip on the corners. I still get butterflies every time I yank on it. Swear I'm going to rip the clips to shreds. If you pop the headlights out, you will at least know your not painting over whatever crap may be under the lower edge. Also, you will be able to tuck away the overlap of the fender liner.

Correct on rear.

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I get it re: worring about damaging the clips. I also worry about flexing my bumper too much with my new lip as it does have some filler on it. So, I think I'll reserve removing the headlights for the necessary bulb replacement at this point. Rear lights, I will have a look at. Cheers.

[zoidberg444]

Solid prep work mate. Its hard work but pays off. Puts me off doing my own spray jobs a bit. My own car could really do with having a dozen or so dents filled and a spray job. It would only get run into again though.

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[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by zoidberg444

Solid prep work mate. Its hard work but pays off. Puts me off doing my own spray jobs a bit. My own car could really do with having a dozen or so dents filled and a spray job. It would only get run into again though.

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Thanks! Yeah, it is a lot of work. But, I'm hoping it becomes my new hobby and it's a great learning experience. I imagine I'll be a little wary in parking lots for a while after I paint it. I do have extra paint and supplies, so if I have to repair, that will be a good experience too.

[06YarisRS]

I picked up my base coat and clear coat yesterday. I saved some money there buying state-side. For a gallon of sprayable urethane (paint and reducer shipped in separate containers but premeasured) and a gallon of clear coat, I'm into about $200.00 USD. I picked up my 2K primer last week.

Hoping to apply the primer (about 3 coats), and block sand on Monday in preparation for spraying on Wednesday. It looks like Wednesday will be the perfect conditions - ~25C and low humidity. I had hoped for a medium reducer for the base coat, but they sent slow as that's all they carry apparently. I'll have to be careful to not get runs/sags but it should level better with slow reducer. The clear coat came with medium reducer.

The lacquer thinner is just for post base coat and clear coat gun cleaning and wipedown before tacking and spraying. I have acetone for the 2K Feather Fill G2 primer gun.

[Runethecursed]

Desire to know more intensifies

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by Runethecursed

Desire to know more intensifies

Trust me, that shall be afforded.

[06YarisRS]

Here is the first coat of primer, It's still wet so a bit streaky here and there. In about 1/2 hour, I'll be going out to lay on another coat.

I had read complaints about the primer being hard to spray as it's so thick, but it went on nice, though a bit orange peely. There will be much block sanding to do before base coat.

I did not take off the remaining 3 door handles as I thought I'd see how well the gun got in and around. It did well on the primer. Metallic base coat might be another issue. But, I have learned about a control coat just after the last, still wet coat of base. You basically mist the car from further back and the metallics sink into the wet base coat and align properly. This may allow me to paint the car with the handles on.

I am extremely happy with my booth. There was absolutely nothing in the air during spraying. The high transfer rate of the hvlp gun and my serious airflow makes for a good set up.