HELP PLEEEASE!!! my yaris starts whenever I step on the clutch pedal.

[silver_echo]

so what ended up being wrong? did it get fixed?

[silver_echo]

update please?

[Kal-El]

Originally Posted by silver_echo

update please?

One thing about Trini, he only comes around about once or twice a year.

Would be nice if he concluded the thread though.

[Kioshi]

Congrats trini on the 420k miles.

I'm sure this is a small wiring problem. Following this~

[birdman]

Reminds me of a Nash.

[elcam84]

Thanks. Pulled the wire out of the connector this morning. Will update as she drives it the next few days.

[elcam84]

Well LOML drove the car today... Started up fine this morning. She voulnteers at the food pantry here and I stopped in a few minutes before she was about to leave.

Got in turned the key and it started to crank then everything went dead. No lights of any sort no dome light nothing. Battery is nearly new etc. I pulled the cover off the steering column and unplugged the ignition switch and as soon as I did the door open light on the dash came on and then when I put the key in the ign the key minder starting annoying me. Then plugged the ign switch back in and it started up fine and she got it home.

I downloaded some partial service manuals and wiring diagrams but they aren't the most complete in the world. So I'm digging through them to see what could cause it to die then come back by un plugging the switch. I used to be an ASE master but that was a few years ago... Toyota has really done some really goofy stuff in recent years in how they wire their cars.


Any thoughts or ideas are appreciated. Sorry for hijacking this thread but it was the closest I could find to the same symptoms. Right now I'm leaning towards a bad ECM. Changed out many of them in the 90s on many cars. And those were relatively easy to diagnose as a bad ECM.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by elcam84

Well LOML drove the car today... Started up fine this morning. She voulnteers at the food pantry here and I stopped in a few minutes before she was about to leave.

Got in turned the key and it started to crank then everything went dead. No lights of any sort no dome light nothing. Battery is nearly new etc. I pulled the cover off the steering column and unplugged the ignition switch and as soon as I did the door open light on the dash came on and then when I put the key in the ign the key minder starting annoying me. Then plugged the ign switch back in and it started up fine and she got it home.

I downloaded some partial service manuals and wiring diagrams but they aren't the most complete in the world. So I'm digging through them to see what could cause it to die then come back by un plugging the switch. I used to be an ASE master but that was a few years ago... Toyota has really done some really goofy stuff in recent years in how they wire their cars.


Any thoughts or ideas are appreciated. Sorry for hijacking this thread but it was the closest I could find to the same symptoms. Right now I'm leaning towards a bad ECM. Changed out many of them in the 90s on many cars. And those were relatively easy to diagnose as a bad ECM.

Try reconnecting the wire. It may be a case where it detects that circuit not being present and it puts the ECM in an error state.

[Chuck G]

Scott, you're well worth whatever they pay you around here!

[elcam84]

The ECM doesn't set any codes and it runs fine with the wire disconnected and it stopped the engine from cranking by just pushing in the clutch.

I also found out that the time on the radio has reset it's self a few times before any drivability problems started.

I have been going through the wiring diagrams in the service manual and I really wish I had a full schematic to look over as it's allot easier with the whole picture instead of just little snippets. But so far it's looking like an intermittent bad ecm. I can't find anything else wrong.

Reminds me of the time I bought a 94 le sabre with 30K on it from a dealer for 4K cause the dealer couldn't figure out what was wrong with it. I figured out it had a bad ecm on the second cold start. CTS would read wrong and set a code if you just turned the key on and cranked but if you let the ecm warm up a few seconds it read properly and was fine. Bad chip on board or bad solder joint.


I appreciate the help as I didn't do allot of Toyota stuff in the past but did allot of mitsubishi and have pleasantly forgotten most of it.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by elcam84

The ECM doesn't set any codes and it runs fine with the wire disconnected and it stopped the engine from cranking by just pushing in the clutch.

I also found out that the time on the radio has reset it's self a few times before any drivability problems started.

I have been going through the wiring diagrams in the service manual and I really wish I had a full schematic to look over as it's allot easier with the whole picture instead of just little snippets. But so far it's looking like an intermittent bad ecm. I can't find anything else wrong.

Reminds me of the time I bought a 94 le sabre with 30K on it from a dealer for 4K cause the dealer couldn't figure out what was wrong with it. I figured out it had a bad ecm on the second cold start. CTS would read wrong and set a code if you just turned the key on and cranked but if you let the ecm warm up a few seconds it read properly and was fine. Bad chip on board or bad solder joint.


I appreciate the help as I didn't do allot of Toyota stuff in the past but did allot of mitsubishi and have pleasantly forgotten most of it.

Chances are that her 08 doesn't have the transponder key (you can tell by looking at the ignition switch, which will be all metal if it does not, and about a 1/2" circle of metal surrounded by shiny black plastic if it does). If it does not, then swapping the ECM is as simple as swapping it. The only thing stored in the ECM that is specific to the vehicle is the VIN.

If hers has an MT, no transponder key, and no ABS, then I actually have a spare, good, ECM that I could reprogram the VIN to match and then ship to you. If it cures the problem, shoot me $60 to cover my cost on the ECM and shipping and if it doesn't, ship it back to me and we'll figure out where to look next.

[elcam84]

Awesome that is exactly what hers is. No transponder no abs MT. It's the absolute base model. Been a great car up until this. I'll get the Vin off of it shortly and send it to you. And shoot me your Paypal address and I'll send you the $.

Oh by the way I like the snow plow.

[elcam84]

Got the ecm this afternoon and swapped it out. Fired up fine just needs to be driven a bit for the idle relearn. LOML will drive it the next few days and see how it goes.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by elcam84

Got the ecm this afternoon and swapped it out. Fired up fine just needs to be driven a bit for the idle relearn. LOML will drive it the next few days and see how it goes.

If the idle doesn't settle down in a few minutes of running, then you should clean the throttle body. There is a TSB about rough idle after battery disconnect being caused by carbon deposits on the throttle body.

[elcam84]

That's the funny thing. It's smoother than it's ever been. So smooth and quiet you think it isn't running or it's going to stall on you. Also the temp light doesn't stay on for a long time when you start it now.
So all I can say is so far so good we'll see how it does this afternoon etc. Our weather went from mid 90s with a low of 80* to low 80s with lows in the high 50s. Was outside the other morning and 65* felt cold. Today isn't bad at 92*, hopefully hot enough to see if the car is going to act up or not.

[elcam84]

Well so far it's been running great. Was 97* the other day and no problems. Looks like I need to send you the old computer.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by elcam84

Well so far it's been running great. Was 97* the other day and no problems. Looks like I need to send you the old computer.

Excellent! I am glad to hear that the ECM fixed it, and I am very interested to do a post mortum on the old ECM to see what failed.

[kevprout]

I had the same issue, the problem was in the Ignition Switch. It short circuit from inside. So the whenever I clutched engine starts again and again.
You can either replace the Ignition Switch or open it up, and clean it properly. Worked for me.

Originally Posted by trini_per4mance

Hey guys, I know it's been a while. But I'm only doing 420k miles now on my Yaris, as I no longer work that job anymore.

Here's my first ever TECHNICAL problem with my Yaris and probably the first problem that I have ever come across that also has senior Toyota technicians STOMPED!

In order to start my car, I have to step on the clutch pedal all the way down to activate the safety switch behind the pedal.

If my ignition is on, to where all the lights on the dashboard are on, and I step on the clutch pedal all the way down, once I activate that safety switch behind the pedal, the car starts by itself without me even having to turn the key. (WEIRD)

Now if I leave my foot on the clutch pedal to where that switch is activated, the starter stays engaged.

Meaning, the starter is spinning on the flywheel while the engine is running.

Once I am driving and I press the clutch pedal all the way down to where it activates that safety switch so I can change gears, the starter engages itself while the engine is running. (ANNOYING)

Every time this happens the teeth on my starter is grinding on the teeth on the flywheel, hence damaging the teeth on both, slowly but surely.

Now because my car still has the original clutch on it, I have to press the clutch pedal all the way down to disengage the clutch so I can change gears.

I know it's an ELECTRICAL problem. But it has senior Toyota technicians who has been with Toyota for 25-27 years STOMPED!

Now before anyone suggests changing the safety switch behind the clutch pedal. Well that wouldn't make sense, because that switch is there to ONLY close the loop in the starting circuit of the car.

I've already changed the starter relay and still got the problem.

One technician suggested the starter ignition switch located by the steering wheel right where you put the key into the ignition. (Haven't done this as yet)

One technician also suggested checking the Body (GROUND) ECU located under the dash.(Haven't done this as yet, also)

Any other suggestions or RESOLUTIONS???

Thanx!