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Old 09-06-2009, 01:56 PM   #19
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I would recommend against using a band filter clamp there is almost no room for that. I would recommend cap style as R2D2 said above.

Quote:
65mm 14 flute cap style filter wrench on a 3/8 ratchet works great for the Yaris.
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Old 09-08-2009, 09:16 AM   #20
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If you turn the oil filter in the direction you indicate in your illustration to loosen it you will tighten it instead.
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Old 10-08-2009, 10:27 AM   #21
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I'm going to be doing an oil change on my Yaris today or tomorrow and I want to get something clear before, kinda dumb question...

The drain plug is the one circled in red right?




Better safe than sorry.
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Old 10-08-2009, 11:46 AM   #22
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^^ Yes.
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Old 10-08-2009, 12:37 PM   #23
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Excellent!
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Old 10-08-2009, 02:43 PM   #24
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FYI, don't qoute me..., but If I remember correctly my Amsoil monthly info a couple months ago said something about Toyota going either 0w20, or 5w20 recommended in 2010 or 2011 cars. Evedently for better mileage. I'll try to find the info.
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Old 10-08-2009, 03:36 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bdc87 View Post
Thanks for reposting! By the way Mobil 1 is not what its hyped up to be.

LOL WUT ?

I have fed my 5VZ Mobil 1 since day 1 in 1998, and 184,000 miles later it still exceeds EPA (22mpg, epa is 19) and I have super clean exhaust, no knock sensor activity on 87 octane. every 8000-10,000 miles new Mobil 1 and new filter.

My cams have almost undetectable wear. My engine has no sludge I repeat no sludge at all, whatsoever. I beat the crap out of it and it is still more powerful than a brand new motor. original pistons original rings original valves original cams.

I don't know where you get your Mobil 1 info but it sounds like you are slamming it for some unknown reason. try 11 years of serious engine beatdowns, and after seeing virtually no wear then tell me Mobil 1 is not all it is cracked up to be. (virtually no wear means everything measurable and made of metal and uses oil lubrication is within spec by a large factor)

mobil 1 rocks
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Old 10-08-2009, 08:16 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 127.0.0.1 View Post
LOL WUT ?

I have fed my 5VZ Mobil 1 since day 1 in 1998, and 184,000 miles later it still exceeds EPA (22mpg, epa is 19) and I have super clean exhaust, no knock sensor activity on 87 octane. every 8000-10,000 miles new Mobil 1 and new filter.

My cams have almost undetectable wear. My engine has no sludge I repeat no sludge at all, whatsoever. I beat the crap out of it and it is still more powerful than a brand new motor. original pistons original rings original valves original cams.

I don't know where you get your Mobil 1 info but it sounds like you are slamming it for some unknown reason. try 11 years of serious engine beatdowns, and after seeing virtually no wear then tell me Mobil 1 is not all it is cracked up to be. (virtually no wear means everything measurable and made of metal and uses oil lubrication is within spec by a large factor)

mobil 1 rocks
Hey loopback address, do you work in networking or something?
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Old 10-11-2009, 06:33 PM   #27
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Oops, I put in too much oil than I should have...I think, reading the damn dipstick, as easy as it sounds, is a pain because one side has the oil at the full level and the other side has it way above the full level. It's pretty misleading so I don't know if I over filled it or not.

Are there any real consequences (drop in MPG, bad for the engine?) from this or will it be fine?


It should be fine as long as I don't get any checking engine lights or oil pressure lights coming on right?

Last edited by yarisitis; 10-11-2009 at 08:25 PM.
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Old 10-11-2009, 10:40 PM   #28
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Install a Fumoto valve in the drain hole, then oil changing is easier and if you over fill, you can drain a little to the correct level.
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Old 10-11-2009, 11:49 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yarisitis View Post
Oops, I put in too much oil than I should have...I think, reading the damn dipstick, as easy as it sounds, is a pain because one side has the oil at the full level and the other side has it way above the full level. It's pretty misleading so I don't know if I over filled it or not.

Are there any real consequences (drop in MPG, bad for the engine?) from this or will it be fine?


It should be fine as long as I don't get any checking engine lights or oil pressure lights coming on right?

Still within the dots but towards the higher end? Can you take a pic?
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Old 10-12-2009, 12:48 AM   #30
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Still within the dots but towards the higher end? Can you take a pic?
On one side it's all the way to the dot marking full, and on the other side it's way beyond the full dot.

I'll try taking a picture tomorrow so you can actually see.
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Old 10-13-2009, 12:30 PM   #31
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too much oil is a big problem. a little OK, 1/2 quart....should be OK


more... no good.
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Old 10-15-2009, 02:58 PM   #32
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how many quarts do we use??

the engine capacity is 4.89 quarts i think??but when i use only 4 quarts its still too full!!!!! i'm confused!!!!
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Old 10-15-2009, 03:16 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yarisitis View Post
I didn't know you needed to fill the new oil filter with oil before you put it on. So you fill it between half way and full? What's the purpose of putting oil in it?

I never did this with my old car, but will start doing it with my Yaris since my first oil change is coming up soon.
That is to help make sure that there is no gap in lubrication. The hardest thing on an engine is startup, before oil is moving effieciently. In that second before the pump starts pulling from the sump, some 80%-90% of total engine damage is done. Damage being normal wear and tear damage. Now that is obviously unavoidable. But the point is that by putting some oil in the filter, it helps make sure that, right after an oil change, that initial startup doesn't take longer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilD424 View Post
Damn 5W20? Thats wayyy to thin. Even so with 5W30. I personally wouldn't use anything less then 10W30, atleast for the kind of driving we do in NYC. That thin oil is only needed for extremely cold climates. Also you might want to let people know they don't have to use a socket wrench for the drain plug, its really not needed just use a 14mm wrench.
Actually, with newer engine, 5W20 is actually the best. As an engine ages, clearances get larger (i.e. between the cylinder wall and the piston), so a heavier oil is fine. But when the engine is newer and has smaller clearances, a thinner oil is needed to ensure quick and efficient lubrication.
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Old 10-15-2009, 03:20 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by bugg_master View Post
the engine capacity is 4.89 quarts i think??but when i use only 4 quarts its still too full!!!!! i'm confused!!!!
Dry fill is listed at 4.3q. We never do a dry fill so an oil change usually takes about 3.5q to fill it.
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Old 10-15-2009, 05:19 PM   #35
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So the measurement from the dipstick is about this where the red line is:




Way too much? I'm guessing so, I guess I'll just drain a little from the drain plug.
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Old 10-15-2009, 05:48 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yarisitis View Post
So the measurement from the dipstick is about this where the red line is:




Way too much? I'm guessing so, I guess I'll just drain a little from the drain plug.
Definitely way too much. Get it out of there ASAP.
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