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08-27-2010, 09:21 PM | #19 | |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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Quote:
Remote starters actually watch the brake to turn off. You have to turn the key to the one position before pressing the brake, otherwise the car shuts off. The brake is also the safety, as pressing it immediately kills the running car. |
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08-28-2010, 01:23 PM | #20 | |
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08-28-2010, 01:39 PM | #21 |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
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By the pedals. Right at the top of the brake pedal.
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09-09-2010, 04:37 PM | #22 |
Ok, I see the wires. But there are 5 wires (not sure why, maybe tail lights?). Do you know which wire is connected to the switch and if it is a make/break or a pull high/low type of signal?
Thanks! Remote lock / unlock with the EZ-430 chronos is so freakin great, I even have it doing the double pulse to unlock all doors with one command. I feel like James Bond (it helps that the watch beeps as I activate the locks) |
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09-09-2010, 04:52 PM | #23 | |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
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Quote:
On that connector, Green gets pulled to 12V when the pedal is pressed. |
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11-28-2010, 09:51 PM | #24 |
CTScott, I am sending the final boards out to the fab in the next week or so. I will have a low power in-car wireless sensor network using 2.5Ghz 3mW nodes and a high power car to wrist watch / car to house PC using a 915Mhz 500mW link which can act as a gateway to the low power network as well as remote start and door lock unlock. The neat thing is that the low power wireless node can be used to implement additional functions in the future.
I have one question which would really simplify my design. Can IGN1 and IGN2 be tied together permanently? This would take my number of outputs from 9 to 8 which you can understand is a desirable number :) Outputs 1 clutch sw bypass 2 ign1 / ign2 3 accessory 4 starter 5 lock 6 unlock 7 horn 8 lights Thanks! |
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11-28-2010, 10:08 PM | #25 | |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
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Quote:
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12-06-2010, 12:00 PM | #26 |
Turns out you are quite right about tying them together. bad idea.
I have found the wiring guide and gone through the schematics. It turns out that the ACC wire carries the full 30A through the key switch and is the only signal that does not trigger a relay. See pg 68-70 in the wiring guide. I have started a page which outlines both the open universal remote start system as well as details for which wire turns on which systems. http://wiki.nebarnix.com/wiki/Yaris_Remote_Start So to hot wire you would #1 Pull IG1 to 12V (and keep it there) #2 Pull IG2 to 12V (and keep it there) #3 Pull Starter to 12V and drop once the engine is started. You could pull ACC to 12V as well (there is a built-in cutoff relay during cranking) but not only is it not neccesary, but you might see sparks as the circuit could pass the full 30A, though most likely it would just pass the radio current. Thanks for all the help CTScott! I can't wait to get the boards populated and see how well it works. |
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10-24-2015, 01:47 PM | #27 |
I've made a post!
Drives: Toyota Vitz 2009 Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Karachi, Pakistan
Posts: 1
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Sorry for bringing back a 5 year old post back to life :p
I'm also trying to get my engine "on" wirelessly. But in my case, I'm trying to give my car both options. Turn the engine on with keys or without keys (via bluetooth). So I want to make sure what exactly happens to the IGNITION SWITCH PINS at different states. Please correct me if i'm wrong. At LOCK position: nothing is connected to anything At ACC position: AM1 is connected to ACC At On position: AM1 is connected to ACC and IG1 At Starter position: AM1 is connected to ACC and IG1, and AM2 is connected to ST2 and IG2 AM1: Yellow wire ACC: White wire IG1: Green wire AM2: Gray wire IG2: Pink wire ST2: Black wire Is that right? |
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