Toyota Yaris Forums - Ultimate Yaris Enthusiast Site
 

 


 
Go Back   Toyota Yaris Forums - Ultimate Yaris Enthusiast Site > Technical Forums > DIY / Maintenance / Service
  The Tire Rack

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 04-21-2017, 11:44 AM   #1
gbill444
Ringman
 
Drives: 2007 Yaris
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 4
Unhappy Antifreeze in the Engine Oil

My Yaris is a 2007 with 270,000 miles on it. On the way home from work it was driving hot but no steam and I pushed it. It died and when I checked the engine it was a broken fan belt. Had it towed home and drained the oil. It had antifreeze in it. So I pulled the head. Got a new remanufactured head but before I put it back together I was wondering if anybody knew what I should do to the block as far as cleaning it. The pistons have some carbon build up. I also want to flush all the oil and water ports. Any suggestions? Thanks. My Yaris deserves a try even though it has a lot of miles. I drive a 100 miles round trip to work each day. It's been a great car. I know, I'm an idiot for pushing it. I didn't listen to my own advice that I give to my children.
gbill444 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-21-2017, 12:46 PM   #2
Jason@SportsCar
 
Drives: 2015 H Production Yaris
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Debary, FL
Posts: 1,953
To clean the tops of the pistons we typically run them to the top, tape off all of the passages in the block, and use a soft wire brush bit in a dremel tool to remove the carbon.

As for cleaning the rest of the passages out, anything that did not come out from draining we try to cycle out. After you put the engine back together run for 20-30min under light load (enough to open the thermostat and circulate everything, don't forget to run the heater to make sure it has water flow), then change all of the fluids again.
__________________
2005-2008 SCCA Solo BS National Champion
2017-2018 SCCA H Prod National Champion
Jason@SportsCar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-21-2017, 08:12 PM   #3
ex-x-fire
 
Drives: 2010 yaris 3 door hatch
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Sheboygan Falls, Wi.
Posts: 504
You can soak the pistons in carb cleaner to get rid of that carbon.
Just beware that any time you put a fresh head on a worn short block, you could be facing blow by issues.
ex-x-fire is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-21-2017, 08:28 PM   #4
tmontague
 
tmontague's Avatar
 
Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,938
^that's what I was thinking...ideally you'd want your block machined. You could always check for warpage with a straight edge and a flashlight, check to make sure no light goes under the straight edge at different angle on the block
__________________
No one ever wants to give a Yaris the point by...
tmontague is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-21-2017, 09:18 PM   #5
SirDigby
 
Drives: 2007 yaris 3 door
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Denver, Colorado
Posts: 999
yes. i would also be worried about the block, as well as the water pump. i assume you mean the serpentine belt, as the fans as electrical. but if your pump was not pumping, and i assume you say running hot because the light came on. in comes on at...uh... i forget, like 130 degrees Celsius or even higher maybe. (266F) which is way to hot imo. an aftermarket thermometer is a good idea. same for oil pressure imo. the light comes on at like 3 psi or something. that's too late...
i'd even replace thermostat....
i'd also drop the oil pan and take a good look at everything. clean the sump on the oil pump....
SirDigby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2017, 09:27 AM   #6
ex-x-fire
 
Drives: 2010 yaris 3 door hatch
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Sheboygan Falls, Wi.
Posts: 504
The main thing I'd be worried about is the rings. They have 270,000 miles on them.
ex-x-fire is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2017, 10:41 AM   #7
gbill444
Ringman
 
Drives: 2007 Yaris
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 4
Thank You!!!
gbill444 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2017, 10:46 AM   #8
gbill444
Ringman
 
Drives: 2007 Yaris
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 4
Now I'm thinking I should remove the short block. The manual says to pull the transfer case with the engine. Can the short block be removed without the transfer case?
gbill444 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2017, 10:59 AM   #9
tmontague
 
tmontague's Avatar
 
Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,938
Almost seems like it would be easier and cheaper to just swap in a lower mileage engine. There is so many available at wreckers that it makes them cheaper and way less time consuming than rebuilding an old engine.

And yes the engine can be pulled with the trans (I'm assuming tjats what you mean?) but it can also be pulled without. You might as well just pull them together imo it's easier to re install since you only have to worry about hooking up the mounts and not having to mate the trans and engine in the engine bay
__________________
No one ever wants to give a Yaris the point by...
tmontague is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2017, 12:47 PM   #10
gbill444
Ringman
 
Drives: 2007 Yaris
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 4
Before I bought the head I found an engine with 52k on it. I should have went that way instead. Thanks.
gbill444 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2017, 12:55 PM   #11
tmontague
 
tmontague's Avatar
 
Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,938
A direct swap is very straight forward and will take little time assuming your car isn't too rusted and you have the proper tools.

Just takes a lot of pictures and triple check everything is connected after the swap
__________________
No one ever wants to give a Yaris the point by...
tmontague is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2017, 01:10 AM   #12
zoidberg444
 
zoidberg444's Avatar
 
Drives: Yaris 06 - 5dr hatchback
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Birmingham, UK
Posts: 390
If it was me and i'd gone so far to do the head at that mileage and intended on getting some more use out of the car i would drop the sump and clean any crap out of it and do the rings which would make cleaning the pistons easier.

When i clean carbon from pistons and stuff i use WD40 or brake clean and those green scotch pads you use washing up dishes and maybe a light brush and scrub it all out. I would also use a drill bit or something to clean the oiling holes inside of the piston.

I would also get a propper straight edge and use a feeler guage to check for any warpage in the block itself if it got that hot.

Sent from my SM-T713 using Tapatalk
__________________
- Yaris 2006, 1.0, 5 door hatchback "Betty" - 240,000 miles
UK to Nordkapp in a Yaris
zoidberg444 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-08-2017, 12:23 PM   #13
Goosecreekjoey
 
Drives: 2008 yaris
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Annapolis Md.
Posts: 24
Engine swapping

when swapping parts. Engine or electrical does re flashing have to be done. Anyone know much about this flashing anyway.
Goosecreekjoey is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
The Nitrous Thread ChinoCharles Performance Modifications 116 02-16-2016 03:07 PM
Basic question on Engine oil bingroy DIY / Maintenance / Service 6 03-21-2013 11:38 AM
NEED ENGINE CHECK LIGHT CODE LIST Attitude Forced Induction Forum 12 04-11-2011 06:38 PM
Synth Blend Oils scape DIY / Maintenance / Service 7 07-12-2009 01:55 PM
Compiled 1NZFE Used Oil Analysis craigq DIY / Maintenance / Service 7 09-10-2007 04:27 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:16 PM.




YarisWorld
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.