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Old 07-19-2020, 08:24 AM   #271
Ronnie V
 
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thanks! those are Ron's cup cars, they are a handful :D
LOL! They certainly are..........was a really fun day!!!

re: the lower temp thermo.........Hillclimb car Trev? Drag car? get the whole system warmed up faster???
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Old 07-19-2020, 09:50 AM   #272
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LOL! They certainly are..........was a really fun day!!!

re: the lower temp thermo.........Hillclimb car Trev? Drag car? get the whole system warmed up faster???
Maybe I'm missing something about their design but how would a lower temp tstat warm up a car faster? It opens at a lower temp dumping cooler coolant into the engine. Does this not translate into increasing time it takes to get the engine up to operating temps?
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Old 07-19-2020, 03:43 PM   #273
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Well.......in my experience you always want to bring a race car to "the line" fully heat soaked. This way operational temps are as consistent as they can be as you start to run it hard......so the sooner you get all the coolant cycled the better.......

Having said that..........unless this car was going to see some kind of road use (think rally car or special stage hillclimb car) you would just remove the thermostat completely........

I'll ask Darren what his thoughts are about them.......
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Old 07-20-2020, 06:37 AM   #274
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Well.......in my experience you always want to bring a race car to "the line" fully heat soaked. This way operational temps are as consistent as they can be as you start to run it hard......so the sooner you get all the coolant cycled the better.......

Having said that..........unless this car was going to see some kind of road use (think rally car or special stage hillclimb car) you would just remove the thermostat completely........

I'll ask Darren what his thoughts are about them.......
Hmm ya I'd be curious what he thinks too. I understand the benefit of fully removing the tstat in a full race car with the increased flow and less obstruction in the system.
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Old 04-07-2021, 08:46 PM   #275
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2021 Plans...It's Been a While

Figured I'd update this thread as it has been a long time and the car continues to put in more laps at the track.

The plan for 2021 is to run stage 1 cams and a long tube header from MWR. This should net me around 8-12 hp and since I am sitting around 2,000 lbs (hopefully slightly under) it will make a big difference on the track. With how light the car is now I have really noticed it during cornering, I can push it past the limits but still control it when it goes.

Here are some pics of how it currently sits stripped out as well as my radiator and fan set up. That is an MWR radiator meant for a pontiac vibe, I was able to make it work but the filler neck is not aa high as I'd like it so it makes burping it a huge PITA.











It is stripped down pretty much as slim as it can be, including the interior wiring, bars and panels. I had to run hood pins as the hood would lift up at speed on the track due to how flimsy it is now that I have cut metal out of it.


Here is a link to Speed Academy's lap time leaderboard:
https://speed.academy/speed-academy-...48193359375000

To put it in perspective these guys have been driving at my local track (TMP) for well over a decade and know it much better than I ever will. They also have a ton of seat time racing various cars and events. They created a lap list of their fastest laps in various cars. It gives you an idea of where my current yaris sits along the spectrum.

My fastest lap last season was a 1:23:11 on 100 tw tires. I still had around a quarter of a second I could had shaved off but I ran out of fuel on my last session and had to pack it in.

I am hoping to break into the 21's this season if my tires will hold up.

Feel free to ask away any Q's about my set up. Hopefully it will help guide others of they decide to build their yaris for track duty. It is surprisingly capable and one of the very few true light weight chassis out there.
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Old 04-07-2021, 11:26 PM   #276
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Wow, that's even farther than mine! I'm going to have to put a few items back to stock-ish configuration for SCCA rules (windshield cowl, dashboard, etc.) and I have a competition weight requirement of 2400 lbs. I plan on removing a significant amount of the dash wiring as well.

What steering wheel hub and quick release did you go with? I got an NRG short hub and their SFI-rated Gen2.0 one-hand quick release. Pretty slick setup with minimal loss of space.
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Old 04-08-2021, 12:17 PM   #277
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Sooo cool
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Old 04-09-2021, 10:40 AM   #278
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Wow, that's even farther than mine! I'm going to have to put a few items back to stock-ish configuration for SCCA rules (windshield cowl, dashboard, etc.) and I have a competition weight requirement of 2400 lbs. I plan on removing a significant amount of the dash wiring as well.

What steering wheel hub and quick release did you go with? I got an NRG short hub and their SFI-rated Gen2.0 one-hand quick release. Pretty slick setup with minimal loss of space.
I don't remember the exact model I went with but they are both NRG parts and have worked fine for my purpose. The steering wheel was always too far away from me and I now find it in the perfect position, although I would prefer it to be a bit lower.

Too bad you have to be no lower than 2400 lbs. The chassis is wild below 2000lbs. It becomes so much easier to control even when pushed 10/10ths and past the limit. On technical road courses it handles the chicanes well as it is very easy to change its direction.
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Old 04-09-2021, 04:32 PM   #279
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Yeah, kind of a bummer. If I had the 1.5L it would be just over 2000. Not sure if the loss of HP is worth the lower competition weight. Makes it all the more interesting though to look at higher redline or different cam profiles for the 2ZR, so I'm very interested to see what you come up with on yours.
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Old 04-15-2021, 12:37 PM   #280
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MWR was supposed to have the header ready to ship as of April 12th...unfortunately there will now be a third delayd/t Covid with an approx update of two months. No idea if this will even happen in time for this season but my fingers are crossed.

I was going to instead, pull the trigger on a EMU Black standalone ECU as this will lead to more hp gains than virtually any other bolt on. After sitting on it for a day or so I have decided to wait on the ECU until late October once this track season is wrapped up. The issue is there is no plug and play harness for our application so I have to wire in the ECU myself and then create a base map to allow me to drive my car to a tuner and have a proper tune made.

I am not confident that I can have this completed in 4-6 weeks so that my car is running properly to be taken to the track. I don't have hours on end where I can work on this and I already have a new concrete porch and stairs I need form and pour this month. Long story short, it won't be enjoyable if I have crazy pressure to get this done and the last thing I want is for my car to not run and miss out on a whole track season. I need time to pour over the EWG's and pin outs for the Xd ECU and make a spreadsheet of what wires I need. This in itself is a lot of work and wiring in an ECU is not something I want to do half assed.

I really hope the header becomes available soon for 2021 but at least my car should be making some good power for 2022 and I'll have an awesome winter project to keep me busy.

I did try and purchase the extended BJ's today but I heard back that those are 2-3 months out. I may be able to pay a bit more and have them here in 3-4 weeks but the reality is a ton of parts are backordered.

It is what it is, but I'll be happy if I'm still able to turn some hot laps this year.
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Old 04-15-2021, 01:41 PM   #281
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Yeah, kind of a bummer. If I had the 1.5L it would be just over 2000. Not sure if the loss of HP is worth the lower competition weight. Makes it all the more interesting though to look at higher redline or different cam profiles for the 2ZR, so I'm very interested to see what you come up with on yours.
To stay in the 1.5L bracket, have you ever thought of Frankesteining a 1NZ with FXE internals, to increase the compression ratio to 13:1 and having forged rods. Also the FTE's redline is 8K, with that information, you can safely get the rev limit moved to maybe 7500 in the 1NZ, and put that in you HB? And then use the xB1's transmission, which has a final drive ratio of 4.31 vice the Yaris' 3.72. The gear ratio for 1st to 5th and reverse are all the same.
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Old 04-15-2021, 03:07 PM   #282
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To stay in the 1.5L bracket, have you ever thought of Frankesteining a 1NZ with FXE internals, to increase the compression ratio to 13:1 and having forged rods. Also the FTE's redline is 8K, with that information, you can safely get the rev limit moved to maybe 7500 in the 1NZ, and put that in you HB? And then use the xB1's transmission, which has a final drive ratio of 4.31 vice the Yaris' 3.72. The gear ratio for 1st to 5th and reverse are all the same.
There's some restrictions on internals and compression ratios that I haven't delved too deeply into, mostly because that's outside the scope of the build for now. It has a C60 gearbox in it now, not sure what final drive offhand. My DD hatch has the 4.3 final drive in it (and a custom configuration of OEM gear sets) and it's a real detriment on long tracks because I lose a LOT of top end speed.

Wait, wasn't this thread about someone else's car? =P
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Old 04-16-2021, 12:19 PM   #283
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There's some restrictions on internals and compression ratios that I haven't delved too deeply into, mostly because that's outside the scope of the build for now. It has a C60 gearbox in it now, not sure what final drive offhand. My DD hatch has the 4.3 final drive in it (and a custom configuration of OEM gear sets) and it's a real detriment on long tracks because I lose a LOT of top end speed.

Wait, wasn't this thread about someone else's car? =P
OOPS! I had to look at who the OP is, sorry I got you two top notchers confused...

Restriction on internal swap to change compression ratio? Where's can I look for the handbook for these kinds of events? How much do you guys invest into this? I might dive deeper into this hobby once I retire from the military.

I'll start a thread about my other questions.

On with the weight reduction thread.
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Old 04-16-2021, 02:23 PM   #284
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No worries, just didn't want to completely derail his thread. =)

I'm building mine for SCCA Road Racing. https://www.scca.com/pages/club-racing
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Old 04-20-2021, 11:13 AM   #285
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glad you're still working on this bucket, Trevor!

I'm about 2h from MWR if you ever get stuck....i know they only ship UPS/fedex so you get hosed coming into CAN
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Old 04-20-2021, 11:56 AM   #286
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Thanks Barber, I appreciate the offer. I will eventually find out what it costs to ship a header once they eventually get stock back in.

I hope you and the family are doing well!
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