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Old 09-09-2018, 09:05 PM   #19
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That's a great tip. Coming up on a drain and fill soon, so will give that a try. Thanks.
I also noticed an increase in MPG. I should have done it sooner! I used Valvolene Maxlife synthetic Automatic Transmission Oil from Wal-Mart. Toyota WS compatible. Tranny is silky smooth.
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Old 09-15-2018, 02:14 PM   #20
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interesting thread, I have the same question
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Old 09-15-2018, 02:53 PM   #21
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Just did this to my '08 yesterday. About 2.5 L came out and was replaced with an equal amount of Toyota WS fluid. What came out was very clean but not as bright red as the new fluid. I try to do this avery 30000 km or so. When I first got my Yaris's, I did a few consecutive drain and fills within a 1000 km. Overkill but I like to start clean. On my '08, I replaced the filter too. Will change the filter on my '06 next drain and fill.
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Old 09-20-2018, 07:27 PM   #22
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I did the the 2nd drain and fill last weekend.I also dropped the pan and put in a new Wix filter, gasket and O-ring that came in a kit.I also cleaned the gray matter from the two magnets in the pan. By jacking up the yaris on the drivers side I again got a little over three quarts out. The useful trick is when the fluid stops draining; lower the jack and wait a few minutes. Jack it back up and more fluid starts streaming out. Only one lowering and raising of the jack is necessary. And if you change the filter, be ready for the gusher that will come. :)
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Old 10-29-2018, 01:15 PM   #23
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Hi Tedtalker, You seem to know what's up with the Yaris. I've only had subarus and one tacoma. My boyfriend has a yaris that currently has 170K miles on it, and he's had it since 85K. Never done anything about the ATF. Now the Yaris is not shifting well, getting stuch in lower gears. My experience tells me, well the fluid is probably clogging everything up and we should change it but now I'm reading about this lifetime fluid that Toyota puts out and I'm entirely confused as to what to do. Suggestions?? Do we change it, flush it, or leave it be? Thanks for your insights!!
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Old 10-30-2018, 12:15 AM   #24
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In my opinion, there is no such thing as a lifetime fluid unless you only expect the car to last a fraction of what it could with proper routine maintenance. I would drain the fluid a few times a few days apart. Just before the last drain and fill, I would change the filter. That way you slowly introduce new fluid and the filter cleans up anything that the previous changes released. It has been speculated that flushes can finish off failing transmissions quickly as the new fluid frees up contaminants that can clog the valvebody or the new, slipprier fluid can cause friction issues with clutch packs. If the transmission is already having shifting issues, irreversible damage may already be done. So, I guess you and your boyfriend would have to decide if the expense of the aforementioned is worth the chance of it fixing or finishing off your transmission. If it were my car, I would take that chance and I would use only Toyota WS fluid. All of this is simply my thought on the matter. There are likely many Yaris owners on this site that have exceeded the mileage on your boyfriend's car and have not encountered transmission related issues.
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Old 10-30-2018, 10:11 AM   #25
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Toyota maintenance schedule has ATF replaced every 100,000 km (~62,000 miles).

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Old 10-30-2018, 11:22 AM   #26
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Hi Tedtalker, You seem to know what's up with the Yaris. I've only had subarus and one tacoma. My boyfriend has a yaris that currently has 170K miles on it, and he's had it since 85K. Never done anything about the ATF. Now the Yaris is not shifting well, getting stuch in lower gears. My experience tells me, well the fluid is probably clogging everything up and we should change it but now I'm reading about this lifetime fluid that Toyota puts out and I'm entirely confused as to what to do. Suggestions?? Do we change it, flush it, or leave it be? Thanks for your insights!!
Agreed with there being no true lifetime fluid.

I'd drain the pan then drop the pan and replace the filter. Before this check to make sure your atf level is good and that you don't have a leak somewhere.

Then fill the pan back up with what you emptied. Once that's done in would do a proper flush to get all the old fluid out. It is easy to do yourself using the trans cooler lines. I wrote a thread about it a few weeks back pointing out which line to use.

I'm not a huge fan of multiple drain and fills since a flush is so easy to do yourself due to their being a pump in the transmission
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Old 11-17-2018, 01:45 AM   #27
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LOL @ my old thread that keeps getting revived!

Anyway, I still have the same question as in my original post - Except this time, an additional six years has passed. The car was manufactured in January 2009, making it nearly 10 years old. My Yaris is still extremely low mileage, at just under 27,000 miles at the time of this writing. I checked the dipstick, and the transmission fluid still looks brand new. It's a very, very light pink. Can my Yaris go much, much longer before the transmission needs to be serviced? Or would the transmission fluid degrade with that much age, and I should think about getting it drained and filled in the next year? I would never, ever attempt to change the transmission fluid on my own. So, if you guys feel I can wait a lot longer before changing the fluid, I'd rather avoid the expense of paying a mechanic. But if you recommend getting it done, I'll get it done.
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Old 11-17-2018, 09:56 AM   #28
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LOL @ my old thread that keeps getting revived!

Anyway, I still have the same question as in my original post - Except this time, an additional six years has passed. The car was manufactured in January 2009, making it nearly 10 years old. My Yaris is still extremely low mileage, at just under 27,000 miles at the time of this writing. I checked the dipstick, and the transmission fluid still looks brand new. It's a very, very light pink. Can my Yaris go much, much longer before the transmission needs to be serviced? Or would the transmission fluid degrade with that much age, and I should think about getting it drained and filled in the next year? I would never, ever attempt to change the transmission fluid on my own. So, if you guys feel I can wait a lot longer before changing the fluid, I'd rather avoid the expense of paying a mechanic. But if you recommend getting it done, I'll get it done.
Personally, I would do it. Even engine oils, whether conventional or synthetic, have manufacturer recommended shelf lives, for upopened containers and none that I've seen are 10 years. I see no reason why ATF would be any different. And, your ATF has been in your car 10 years, subject to hot/cold cycles, condensation etc.

This really is such a simple job. Jack your car up (support it with something along with your jack). Apparently raising the front end will net you more fluid removal. Use a 10 mm hex bit to remove the plug and drain the fluid into a clean container and measure the amount you drained. Put the bolt back in, snug it up. Grab a funnel and slowly pour the same amount of new fluid into the transmission dipstick tube. Use Toyota WS fluid. Done.
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Old 11-17-2018, 01:04 PM   #29
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Thanks 06YarisRS! Sounds as simple as an oil change, minus the jacking up. I've always done my own oil changes. So if some maintenance item is a simple as a drain and refill, I am confident that I can do it.

With such low mileage on my car and very clean looking ATF, will a simple drain and refill be sufficient for keeping my transmission in top condition? Previous replies discussed dropping the pan, replacing the filter, etc. Is that only necessary if the the car has problems, or if the ATF was neglected and comes out brown and dirty? Just wondering.
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Old 11-17-2018, 02:07 PM   #30
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Thanks 06YarisRS! Sounds as simple as an oil change, minus the jacking up. I've always done my own oil changes. So if some maintenance item is a simple as a drain and refill, I am confident that I can do it.

With such low mileage on my car and very clean looking ATF, will a simple drain and refill be sufficient for keeping my transmission in top condition? Previous replies discussed dropping the pan, replacing the filter, etc. Is that only necessary if the the car has problems, or if the ATF was neglected and comes out brown and dirty? Just wondering.
Actually, it's more simple than an oil change if you don't do the filter. Very slightly more difficult if you do the filter, but still very easy.

I was in to the local Toyota dealership getting parts one day and queried the service manager on ATF changes. He said that they never replace the filters, just drain and refill. I have done both. Both my '08 and '06 have had minimally 3 drain and fills since I've owned them - probably put 30000 km on each since taking ownership. I do this whenever I get a new-to-me car, just to establish a baseline for maintenance, plus you really don't know how they have been maintained. My '08 had the filter change, the '06 not, but will before long. My normal maintenance cycle for this would probably be every 30000 km. Remember, with each drain and fill, you're getting not much more than half of the old fluid out.

If you car is running well, I would just do a drain and fill. Actually, I would probably do two, a few days apart. Changing the filter I would consider optional. But, if you do do it, it too is fairly straight forward. Below is a pic showing the process if you decide to replace the filter ("strainer").

Carefully observe torque specifications and use a cross tightening pattern. I usually add a very thin bead of RTV sealant to both sides of the gasket for good measure (not too much as you don't want pieces of it breaking off and floating around in the pan). Also, I usually finger tighten the bolts, then do two cycles of tightening, ending with the final torque spec.

Note: And I may be confusing it with another of my vehicles, but I think the Yaris transmission pan mounting surface has one or two studs that have nuts as opposed to all 19 fasteners being bolts. These rust on and can break the studs off during removal. Soak those nuts with a good penetrating fluid - I like releaseAll - a few times a day or two before trying to remove them. If they break - I broke one off - it's not that big a deal. The trans pan is very rigid and can handle a missing fastener and not leak.

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Old 11-17-2018, 02:34 PM   #31
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With only 27,000 miles in it, I'd say do only one drain and fill not two. Rather wasteful imo. Also, performing the change every 30,000 miles is also overkill, again imo. Service schedule is every 100,000 kms.

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Old 11-17-2018, 03:20 PM   #32
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With only 27,000 miles in it, I'd say do only one drain and fill not two. Rather wasteful imo. Also, performing the change every 30,000 miles is also overkill, again imo. Service schedule is every 100,000 kms.

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You're probably right, WeeYari. It's the age of the fluid that would have me to do two, but I tend to 'over-maintain' my vehicles anyway. I'm sure one would be just fine.
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Old 11-17-2018, 10:47 PM   #33
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I looked under my car today, and the hex nut is seriously corroded, and so are the 19 fasteners. I've decided that it's probably best for me to pay a transmission shop to do this. Money is a non-issue. I've never used a torque wrench in my life, and I don't think it's a great idea for me to experiment on my car. But, all the above information is incredibly useful, even if I don't do the work myself. Being a female, I now have enough knowledge not to get ripped off. I have my sister's 2010 Nissan Sentra through June of next year (she's living temporarily in Philadelphia, where there's no place to park), and her car is overdue for a CVT fluid change. If all goes well at the transmission shop where I will be taking her car, I'll take mine there as well.

Also, should I have the shop drop the pan just to replace the 19 very rusty bolts? If so, I was wondering if I should have them replace the oil filter/strainer, since the additional additional labor cost would be minimal.
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Old 11-18-2018, 12:24 AM   #34
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My friend was comparing trans oil change without filter change as taking shower,but not changing your panties. So you to judge if you need it. Although, mine was on a mazda5, without previous owner maintenance history..

Oh! Don't forget your blinker fluid change lol

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Old 11-18-2018, 01:21 AM   #35
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@IllusionX Cost isn't a barrier, so I guess I'll just have the shop change the filter. Especially since this will be a service I'm only going to get done once or twice a decade.

Slightly off-topic, but regarding the old blinker fluid joke - Yes, there are actually idiots who fall for that kind of stuff. My other sister (not the one with the Nissan Sentra) went to a Honda dealership for the Takata airbag recall on her 2010 Honda Civic. When she went to pick up the car, the dealership somehow found a lot of catastrophic problems during an unsolicited "complementary inspection," and these things had to be fixed immediately, and the bill would total $500. I told her that it was unnecessary services for the sole purpose of making someone a commission, and to read the maintenance schedule, and join a Civic forum online. But, nope, she wouldn't listen, because she "doesn't know anything about cars, and they are the experts." So, my thought is, even if you aren't going to do the work yourself, understand your car as much as you can.
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Old 11-18-2018, 07:44 AM   #36
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My wife proudly states that she knows nothing about cars. She said that before we met, she mused about how great it would be to marry someone who could look after all the vehicle maintenance. I think she has since come to regret that.

I do think that many people really want nothing to do with their cars other than to drive them. So, even though repair bills can be high, they are preferable to having to think about them. Having some mechanical knowledge does go a long way to avoid being ripped off by unscrupulous repair shops/dealerships.

I think you are making a wise choice about having the dealer/shop do the transmission fluid change given the condition of the bolts. Anyone - experienced or not - can get into a real mess if bolts start snapping off. Regarding whether or not you should have the repair shop replace the bolts, I would simply ask them how much they would charge. I have sourced bolts from a dealership and they often run on the order of a few bucks for a tiny bolt - which adds up when you're buying 19 of them. The transmission shop would probably charge a lot less than as they would not likely be 'oem parts'. That said, if the heads of the bolts aren't severely rusted, they may just reuse them.

Good luck, and if you're willing to post up what was done and the cost, I know it would be appreciated by others on this site.
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