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Old 06-02-2012, 05:23 PM   #1
Smilgy
 
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No power

So my yaris is after developing a problem.. There's no power and i have a feeling i know why. The tank was running a little dry and something may have clogged. A check engine light came on soon after. Now it's running rough at idle, seems like one or two of the cylinders aren't working. Any tips on where i should start troubleshooting?
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Old 06-02-2012, 06:52 PM   #2
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read the code for the CEL. not sure if it is an international thing but OBD2 readers are relatively cheap. that is assuming that ireland is using that standard.

around here we have parts stores (autozone, advance auto, oreileys) that will read your code for free hoping that you will buy the parts to fix it with at their store.

that is where I would start.
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Old 06-03-2012, 04:56 AM   #3
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Im gonna go do that now, luckily i have a code reader :D
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Old 06-03-2012, 06:12 AM   #4
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Just as suspected, p0302 cylinder 2 misfire. Any ideas?
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Old 06-03-2012, 07:43 AM   #5
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Have you ever changed the spark plugs? It could be that they are at the end of their useful life, or it could be a bad coil pack on cylinder 3, or a plugged injector.
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Old 06-03-2012, 09:00 AM   #6
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I've just been out there trouble shooting and found out what's wrong! Nothing to do with dirty fuel. The thing that goes on the top of the spark plugs is broken. I tested all the spark plugs and they all worked fine but i saw that one of them wasn't giving a spark. I swapped it around in a different cylinder and it was fine. The swapped the thing that goes on top of the spark plug, put everything together, went for a drive and the computer reported the problem on a different cylinder. Should be an easy fix once i find the part.
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Old 06-03-2012, 10:50 AM   #7
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OK - So that is the coil pack that I mentioned above. For your 2000 with the 1SZFE engine, the Toyota part number is: 90919-02240
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Old 06-03-2012, 01:58 PM   #8
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Yup that's it. I'll be getting one from the scrap yard on Tuesday. Thanks for the help!
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Old 06-03-2012, 02:04 PM   #9
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maybe the car went in to limp mode need a code scanner to see if it shows a code
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Old 06-03-2012, 02:05 PM   #10
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i thaught orileys and autozone will scan your car for free they do here in oregon
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Old 09-19-2018, 10:36 AM   #11
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Hey. I have 2008 toyota yaris sedan with 173000 miles.

my car doesn't have power. Here is the story.

I get into my car and turned the battery(all my dash lights were ON), waited for 3 seconds and then turned the key further to crank it but then however i turned it back suddenly without cranking it. Then I lost power to my car.
A guy jump started it from a big truck and then it worked. But I had some idling problem (which is normal). After running my car for few minutes I ended up getting no power to my electronic steering wheel. Then I turned off my car and I cleaned my battery terminals (I know my battery is good) and then i started it again. It worked and i got power to my steering wheel. I went to autozone and got my battery tested, found that it was good. But i got a new battery because it was old. after few days I got same problem. My car have no power now.

I have headlights which is connected directly to positive battery terminal of battery with a separate fuse(Which is good) which used to turn-on even without my keys. But now headlights also doesn't work which means there is no problem with ignition switch. No power at all. My battery is good, my alternator is good and my fuses are good. I suspect a grounding problem.

Could you please help me with this.
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Old 09-19-2018, 10:50 AM   #12
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a non-conductive crust also grows on the battery cable ends/clamps. checking grounds is always advised.
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Old 09-19-2018, 11:17 AM   #13
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This happened in my car a few times when doing the engine swap and scared the crap out of me. Turns out the reason was me not tightening down the ground terminal on the battery fully

It was fully engaged but not tightened down. Only way to restore power back to my car was to fully disconnect the battery and reconnect
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Old 09-19-2018, 08:26 PM   #14
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Mind of Toyota 1991 Corolla cable ends had a plastic insulator on their lower surfaces. Part of the insulator stuck up in between the cable end clamp ears so the clamp bolt would tighten and "bottom out" on the plastic, without really tightening the clamp to the battery terminal. (Just cut off and discard the plastic gizmo. problem solved.)
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