ok seriously need help... - Toyota Yaris Forums

caineroad · 10-28-2012, 07:03 PM

Tonight was a raining night. I drove to my local supermarket and get some food. I came out, started my car and I realized the rear deforester light is on (but i didn't turn it on), so i tried to push the button but the light wouldn't turn off. So I thought no big deal, I might just have to restart my car.

So I stopped, turn off my car and then start it back up. This time the gear shifter(AT) wouldn't shift down from P!! So I knew something is wrong with the car, but I had to get home so I took out the small cover to get access to the shift button, in order to get it shift to D. At this time, I also realized the passenger air bag(I had a passenger at that time) had no light, the red airbag warning light on the dash came on, the battery warning light came on(flickers rapidly). The fans also didn't work, although the console light works(it was night time). So I still insisted to drive back home, because it was late and dealership were closed I couldn't bring my car in for repair.

I continued driving back home, only to realize the signal no longer works. I didn't turn on my headlights, cuz I wanted to preserve the battery. Oncoming cars were flashing me with their high beams, I had to turn on the hazard lights instead. Luckily I made it home, but the problem still not yet resolved. Anyone have any idea?

I have a voltmeter in my headunit, and it was displaying 12.3V (+1/-1) when I was driving back home, so obviously the battery wasn't charging.

At home, I used a multimeter to test the battery directly, is showing me 12.16V when the car is started.

What I have done so far:
Cleaning the battery terminal with paper towels, and make sure they are snug fit.

What I have done before this occurs:
Installing driver side heated seat

What is the problem??

help!

CTScott · 10-28-2012, 08:07 PM

Check the 60A MAIN fuse, which is one of the two giant fuses built into the positive battery terminal assembly.

caineroad · 10-28-2012, 09:06 PM

Thanks Scott,

I checked the fuse, doesn't seem like it is blown/melted

below are some pics i took:
http://i47.tinypic.com/syr2br.jpg
http://i46.tinypic.com/6glu2t.jpg
http://i45.tinypic.com/2pttils.jpg

ilikerice · 10-28-2012, 09:13 PM

time for a new alternator sounds like...

caineroad · 10-28-2012, 09:17 PM

I changed the alternator in 2009 Winter, it goes bad so fast??

Is there a way to test alternator without going through the battery? I have a multimeter in hand.

CTScott · 10-28-2012, 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by caineroad

Thanks Scott,

I checked the fuse, doesn't seem like it is blown/melted

below are some pics i took:
http://i47.tinypic.com/syr2br.jpg
http://i46.tinypic.com/6glu2t.jpg
http://i45.tinypic.com/2pttils.jpg

It doesn't look like either is popped, but it is sure acting like it. Check the 7.5A ALT-S fuse in the under hood fuse box. Also check the ACC2 fuse on the upper left corner of the under dash panel (behind the change cup) and Gauge fuses in the under dash one (up above the brake pedal).

caineroad · 10-28-2012, 09:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CTScott

It doesn't look like either is popped, but it is sure acting like it. Check the 7.5A ALT-S fuse in the under hood fuse box. Also check the ACC2 fuse on the upper left corner of the under dash panel (behind the change cup) and Gauge fuses in the under dash one (up above the brake pedal).

OK, I will get them checked right now. But first I need to look back and see which fuse is which... have no idea at the moment.

Does the ECU automatically cut off the fan and gear shifter when it senses voltage is low and/or no charging occurring?

caineroad · 10-28-2012, 09:57 PM

I checked the fuses, ACC2 and 7.4A ALT-S are fine, but the gauge fuse is blown. I will get it replaced tomorrow, is this the culprit of not charging?

7.5A ALT-S
http://i45.tinypic.com/2zqvs0j.jpg
http://i47.tinypic.com/mli74.jpg
http://i50.tinypic.com/2q0jek4.jpg
http://i47.tinypic.com/5bs18z.jpg

ACC2 7.5A
http://i48.tinypic.com/1zm1hfo.jpg
http://i47.tinypic.com/dddt6t.jpg

Gauge 10A
http://i47.tinypic.com/32zugbq.jpg

---
edit: I read somewhere about this gauge 10A is connected to the ignition wire. When I installed the seat heater, I install the ON wire to the white ignition wire(pin 4 of connector 4F) behind the change box, instead of the one 'pink' (under the steering wheel). Not sure if that would make any difference. Is there anyway I can improve it so it does not blow next time?

CTScott · 10-28-2012, 10:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by caineroad

I checked the fuses, ACC2 and 7.4A ALT-S are fine, but the gauge fuse is blown. I will get it replaced tomorrow, is this the culprit of not charging?

7.5A ALT-S
http://i45.tinypic.com/2zqvs0j.jpg
http://i47.tinypic.com/mli74.jpg
http://i50.tinypic.com/2q0jek4.jpg
http://i47.tinypic.com/5bs18z.jpg

ACC2 7.5A
http://i48.tinypic.com/1zm1hfo.jpg
http://i47.tinypic.com/dddt6t.jpg

Gauge 10A
http://i47.tinypic.com/32zugbq.jpg

---
edit: I read somewhere about this gauge 10A is connected to the ignition wire. When I installed the seat heater, I install the ON wire to the white ignition wire(pin 4 of connector 4F) behind the change box, instead of the one 'pink' (under the steering wheel). Not sure if that would make any difference. Is there anyway I can improve it so it does not blow next time?

The GAUGE fuse is ignition switched and is the power source for the shift lock, amongst other things. It does not have enough surplus to run the control line of your seat heaters. The pink wire at the ignition switch (per my DIY) does.

caineroad · 10-28-2012, 10:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CTScott

The GAUGE fuse is ignition switched and is the power source for the shift lock, amongst other things. It does not have enough surplus to run the control line of your seat heaters. The pink wire at the ignition switch (per my DIY) does.

Oh i see, that's the problem..! Thanks man.

Actually i was following the DIY. Not sure if I am reading it right, english is not my first language. It says 'Ignition switched power connection: The white wire in pin 4 of connector 4F (the white wire on the lower right of the connector below).'

So i just followed that.

You are the best... so knowledgeable, thanks for helping and contributing to this forum! we love u!

CTScott · 10-28-2012, 10:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by caineroad

Oh i see, that's the problem..! Thanks man.

Actually i was following the DIY. Not sure if I am reading it right, english is not my first language. It says 'Ignition switched power connection: The white wire in pin 4 of connector 4F (the white wire on the lower right of the connector below).'

So i just followed that.

You are the best... so knowledgeable, thanks for helping and contributing to this forum! we love u!

OK - That is correct - I did say to use that pin in the DIY, and it worked fine for mine. There is less extra current supply capability on that pin than the pink on the ignition switch connector (which I usually recommend for IG switched power). In my DIY I add relay to make the seat heaters ignition switched and that relay coil only draws 75mA. In your case it appears that the harness of the seat heaters you purchased have the ignition switching relay built in (since you have two red power wires, one marked "ON"). Did you get a wiring diagram with them that actually states that that is the case?

fnkngrv · 10-28-2012, 10:59 PM

Who is the vendor for your heated kits?

CTScott · 10-28-2012, 11:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fnkngrv

Who is the vendor for your heated kits?

I personally like the cobraheat.com ones, as I have now used them on 3 vehicles. He bought some ebay ones.

fnkngrv · 10-28-2012, 11:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CTScott

I personally like the cobraheat.com ones, as I have now used them on 3 vehicles. He bought some ebay ones.

http://www.cobraheat.com/

Best way to go as you know that I did as well. I have a couple buddies here now too that installed his motorcycle kits which they LOVE since it helps with fatigue during long duration rides.

caineroad · 10-28-2012, 11:32 PM

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/180870408503?...#ht_606wt_1037

i bought it from here, i like the cobra one but i like the dial switch in this better, also has more adjustable level of heat. It comes with a relay already in this kit and is cheaper too. Heat up really fast. Can be considered.

caineroad · 10-28-2012, 11:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CTScott

OK - That is correct - I did say to use that pin in the DIY, and it worked fine for mine. There is less extra current supply capability on that pin than the pink on the ignition switch connector (which I usually recommend for IG switched power). In my DIY I add relay to make the seat heaters ignition switched and that relay coil only draws 75mA. In your case it appears that the harness of the seat heaters you purchased have the ignition switching relay built in (since you have two red power wires, one marked "ON"). Did you get a wiring diagram with them that actually states that that is the case?

Yea but i lost the wiring diagram, will have to contact them again. I now have the pink ignition wire connected to the ON wire. Will be getting a new fuse tomorrow, will see how that goes. I will also confirm it with the wiring diagram later once they send me, hopefully it won't blow again lol.

thanks!

caineroad · 10-29-2012, 12:56 AM

According to the manual i received,

ON wire - connect to ignition, 12V - 5amp circuit
red wire - connect to accessory, 12V - 20amp circuit

The way I connect the red wire to the spade terminal in the DIY, is it going to be ok?

CTScott · 10-29-2012, 06:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by caineroad

According to the manual i received,

ON wire - connect to ignition, 12V - 5amp circuit
red wire - connect to accessory, 12V - 20amp circuit

The way I connect the red wire to the spade terminal in the DIY, is it going to be ok?

OK - The big question is just how much current the ON wire is drawing. Apparently it is more than just the switching current of a relay coil.

You could connect the ON wire to the high current spade (along with the other red), but you would lose ignition switching for the seat heaters. You could add another relay, per my DIY, and do the ignition switching that way.

10-28-2012, 07:03 PM	#1
caineroad Drives: 06 Yaris HB CE Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Toronto Posts: 501	ok seriously need help... Tonight was a raining night. I drove to my local supermarket and get some food. I came out, started my car and I realized the rear deforester light is on (but i didn't turn it on), so i tried to push the button but the light wouldn't turn off. So I thought no big deal, I might just have to restart my car. So I stopped, turn off my car and then start it back up. This time the gear shifter(AT) wouldn't shift down from P!! So I knew something is wrong with the car, but I had to get home so I took out the small cover to get access to the shift button, in order to get it shift to D. At this time, I also realized the passenger air bag(I had a passenger at that time) had no light, the red airbag warning light on the dash came on, the battery warning light came on(flickers rapidly). The fans also didn't work, although the console light works(it was night time). So I still insisted to drive back home, because it was late and dealership were closed I couldn't bring my car in for repair. I continued driving back home, only to realize the signal no longer works. I didn't turn on my headlights, cuz I wanted to preserve the battery. Oncoming cars were flashing me with their high beams, I had to turn on the hazard lights instead. Luckily I made it home, but the problem still not yet resolved. Anyone have any idea? I have a voltmeter in my headunit, and it was displaying 12.3V (+1/-1) when I was driving back home, so obviously the battery wasn't charging. At home, I used a multimeter to test the battery directly, is showing me 12.16V when the car is started. What I have done so far: Cleaning the battery terminal with paper towels, and make sure they are snug fit. What I have done before this occurs: Installing driver side heated seat What is the problem?? help! Last edited by caineroad; 10-28-2012 at 07:16 PM.

10-28-2012, 08:07 PM	#2
CTScott ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: USA, CT Posts: 13,460	Check the 60A MAIN fuse, which is one of the two giant fuses built into the positive battery terminal assembly. __________________

10-28-2012, 09:13 PM	#4
ilikerice Drives: 2010 black yaris Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: savannah, ga Posts: 2,868	time for a new alternator sounds like... __________________ -Derrick- "Racing is important to men who do it well. When you're racing... It's life. Anything that happens before or after, is just waiting."

10-28-2012, 09:57 PM	#8
caineroad Drives: 06 Yaris HB CE Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Toronto Posts: 501	I checked the fuses, ACC2 and 7.4A ALT-S are fine, but the gauge fuse is blown. I will get it replaced tomorrow, is this the culprit of not charging? 7.5A ALT-S http://i45.tinypic.com/2zqvs0j.jpg http://i47.tinypic.com/mli74.jpg http://i50.tinypic.com/2q0jek4.jpg http://i47.tinypic.com/5bs18z.jpg ACC2 7.5A http://i48.tinypic.com/1zm1hfo.jpg http://i47.tinypic.com/dddt6t.jpg Gauge 10A http://i47.tinypic.com/32zugbq.jpg --- edit: I read somewhere about this gauge 10A is connected to the ignition wire. When I installed the seat heater, I install the ON wire to the white ignition wire(pin 4 of connector 4F) behind the change box, instead of the one 'pink' (under the steering wheel). Not sure if that would make any difference. Is there anyway I can improve it so it does not blow next time? Last edited by caineroad; 10-28-2012 at 10:14 PM.

10-28-2012, 10:59 PM	#12
fnkngrv Mr. 155 and climbing View User's Garage Drives: Seriously Modded 07 Sedan Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: In The Hotbox Posts: 4,742	Who is the vendor for your heated kits? __________________ Team Tiamat Racing on Facebook Youtube Channel: Team Tiamat Racing *Class record holder in Land Speed @ 154.5mph for 1.5 mile and 145.5mph in the mile in the F (2.016 to 3.014 L), G (1.524 to 2.015 L), and H (1.016 to 1.523 L) classes.*

10-28-2012, 09:06 PM	#3
caineroad Drives: 06 Yaris HB CE Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Toronto Posts: 501	Thanks Scott, I checked the fuse, doesn't seem like it is blown/melted below are some pics i took: http://i47.tinypic.com/syr2br.jpg http://i46.tinypic.com/6glu2t.jpg http://i45.tinypic.com/2pttils.jpg

10-28-2012, 09:17 PM	#5
caineroad Drives: 06 Yaris HB CE Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Toronto Posts: 501	I changed the alternator in 2009 Winter, it goes bad so fast?? Is there a way to test alternator without going through the battery? I have a multimeter in hand.

10-28-2012, 11:32 PM	#15
caineroad Drives: 06 Yaris HB CE Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Toronto Posts: 501	http://www.ebay.ca/itm/180870408503?...#ht_606wt_1037 i bought it from here, i like the cobra one but i like the dial switch in this better, also has more adjustable level of heat. It comes with a relay already in this kit and is cheaper too. Heat up really fast. Can be considered.

10-29-2012, 12:56 AM	#17
caineroad Drives: 06 Yaris HB CE Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Toronto Posts: 501	According to the manual i received, ON wire - connect to ignition, 12V - 5amp circuit red wire - connect to accessory, 12V - 20amp circuit The way I connect the red wire to the spade terminal in the DIY, is it going to be ok?