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Old 12-24-2014, 12:43 AM   #1
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Yes... and the scanner showed no pending codes.


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Old 12-24-2014, 10:34 AM   #2
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Greg, what warm idle rpm did u settle to? Thanks again.

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Old 01-12-2015, 07:02 PM   #3
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I put a 1zz throttle body on my yaris this fall, after adjusting the idle and resetting the ecu its has worked great. it does idle higher than with the original tb and it doesn't like very cold weather. -30/-35 it throws a lean code and I had the throttle plate get stuck, but other than that it has been good and there was a noticeable increase above 3500rpm, although I don't know how much is the throttle body and how much is the tooter I put on at the same time.
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Old 01-27-2015, 11:46 AM   #4
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Does anyone know of a way to get rid of the "lag" when letting off the gas? Mine stays at it's rpms for a second before dropping down after letting off the gas with or without the clutch in. It's quite annoying.
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Old 02-02-2015, 07:26 PM   #5
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If you're referring to the quick jerk while letting off the gas, try backing idle screw out more. I'm still struggling with this nyself. Getting it set right for the ecu to be happy is a tricky bitch. Swings in weather make it worse. Anyway, if you're having a laaaaaag of mure than half a second or so we might be talking about two different things. Try scanning ecu. If you get idle control system code, ecu is not happy yet. It can even be a pending code that won't trigger CEL.

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Old 02-03-2015, 02:20 PM   #6
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For example, if I'm running at 4000 rmp, and I let off the gas, it'll stay there for a half second, then drop. My original tb would drop the second I let off the gas.

I'll have to look and see if the idle screw has ever been messed with. I may need to chip away at the epoxy. If I do, do I then need to replace it once I find a good setting?

As far as codes, I'll need to run over to an auto shop sometime to see.

PS-I'm tired of people thinking I want to race them at the first stop light by my house.......stupid high rpm before engine warm up.
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Old 04-19-2015, 12:35 AM   #7
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So I attempted to do the throttle body swap but realized I can't connect it to the stock intake due to the outlet of the throttle body being larger than the hose...is the best way for me to solve this to buy a 2005 Corolla / Matrix intake hose? I'm trying to keep it looking stock as much as possible due to my 2014 is still under warranty.
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Old 04-19-2015, 07:15 AM   #8
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Turn the flex hose around and use a little bit of grease. It will be a tight fit.
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Old 04-19-2015, 03:10 PM   #9
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I'll have to try that again, was trying my hardest to get that method to work
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Old 04-23-2015, 01:32 PM   #10
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I've been wanting to do this mod for some time, I just want to get the right part.
I have a 2007 yaris sedan. I see the part number we want is the 22030-0D030, but all I can find locally is the 0D031! In that case, would I simply need to do a chip swap?

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Old 04-23-2015, 03:12 PM   #11
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I haven't read through the entire thread, but a tip i have found I want to share with you all.

PORTMATCH THE TB!! I got my throttle body from a sedan friend, and he had meticulously port matched the intake manifold to the tb, I have experience no extended high rpm or pulsing at all. Just the normal 2700rpm at start which drops to normal operating rpm within like 20 seconds or so, and this is which the car not moving.

But like others, i do have the "rpm holding lag" not always maybe once in a while, but i havent had an issue like, trying to get into a gear and grinding..
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Old 04-24-2015, 01:52 PM   #12
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I successfully installed it except I'm getting the pulsing revs and makes it seem like I want to race everyone lol..I dont quite have a hex small enough to adjust the idle screw

Last edited by zen; 04-24-2015 at 07:49 PM.
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Old 05-16-2015, 11:19 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zen View Post
I successfully installed it except I'm getting the pulsing revs and makes it seem like I want to race everyone lol..I dont quite have a hex small enough to adjust the idle screw
Do not drive it like that with the engine fishing around trying to find the idle speed. It's unsafe. Don't ask me how I know.

I found the closest hex that's just slightly larger and tapped it in with a small mallet for a really tight fit. You do NOT want to strip out that tiny screw.



Make sure the epoxy is cleared and use a little bit of liquid wrench to help it break free. It will make a cracking noise when it moves, and that's good. When it moves take it one full turn out (counterclockwise) to allow the butterfly to close enough for the ECU to find a stable idle.


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Old 04-24-2015, 05:42 PM   #14
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What was the part # on the throttle bodies you installed?
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Old 04-24-2015, 07:49 PM   #15
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0D030 off a 2005 Toyota Corolla
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Old 04-24-2015, 07:54 PM   #16
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Can I use a 0D031?
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Old 04-28-2015, 02:43 PM   #17
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Hey guys, I found a (Part Number) 22030-0C010 throttle body, it looks similar to the one you guys use, only visual difference is the coolant pipes are angled differently.. The Bore diameter is also 55mm.. I can't find a 2nd hand 1ZZ TB in my country and the guy that wants to sell me this one is giving it to me at a good price. I plugged the connector into it and it opens when I depress the accelerator, it should work the same as the 1ZZ once fitted?
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Old 05-08-2015, 12:12 PM   #18
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Okay, so I have installed my PN:22030-0C010 TB with great difficulty, had occilation on the first startup! Second time I started up I idled in the 3000 RPM range but it gradually came down to about 800 RPM's (idle) more or less and it has been driving fine for 2 days so far!

No chip-swap, I chipped away the idle screw's epoxy to test fit a hex wrench at the shops but I haven't adjusted it yet! No CEL and it's been totally normal so far apart from the 2000RPM idle for 20 seconds when I start up in the morning!

I can feel the 5th gear bite harder even at a lowly 60kph, not much but noticeable! And a slight wheelspin on my hill of a driveway today proved that the response is more than I'm used to! I put my stock airbox back and can swear that it's got a slightly stronger growl! I hope my luck holds!! :D
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