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Old 01-09-2017, 08:21 PM   #1
nkaufman
 
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Dealer's list of recommended items

Hello,

Wife was at the dealer for an Oil Change (on a Special of course) for her 2010 Yaris sedan bought in Dec 2010, so just over 6 years back and 48K miles

After the work was done, dealer gave me a list of recommended items:

(1) Battery Replace - Even in this cold spell, the car starts at first key crank and I've had no issues at all. So, why do I need to replace it now?

(2) Drive Belts - At 48K miles? But perhaps can look into this

(3) Clean and adjust brakes - Seriously!!

(4) PCV valve replace - Again, at 48K miles?

(5) A/T Drain and Fill -

(6) A/C Vent Service - What the heck is this?

(7) Clean Throttle Body - ??

Seems like a rip-off list. What'd you guys think?

Thanks for your assistance
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Old 01-09-2017, 08:28 PM   #2
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For comparison, I have an '07 with just over 68k. I've never been told to do any of that stuff and I was taking it to Toyota for everything up until last year.

I've had to replace the water pump and alternator. Even though the miles are low, given the age, I could see doing the belts. The rest sounds like nice things to do if you had the budget for it, but not sure it's necessary.

There are far more qualified folks here to speak on it, though, so hopefully they'll chime in.
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Old 01-10-2017, 07:21 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ern-diz View Post
For comparison, I have an '07 with just over 68k. I've never been told to do any of that stuff and I was taking it to Toyota for everything up until last year.

I've had to replace the water pump and alternator. Even though the miles are low, given the age, I could see doing the belts. The rest sounds like nice things to do if you had the budget for it, but not sure it's necessary.

There are far more qualified folks here to speak on it, though, so hopefully they'll chime in.
Thank you for the information.

My thoughts exactly. Can take a look at the belt and replace the Cabin Filter (maybe I forgot and replaced only the Engine Air Filter earlier).

But other than that, all else looks like a st(d)ealer list to me.
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Old 01-09-2017, 08:59 PM   #4
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1) If you have jumper cables, or AAA, or your insurance has roadside support, forget it. Keep that battery until the car won't start.
2) Maybe, if the belt is as old as the car, but this is very easy to do yourself.
3) pfft
4) I think this is a 100k item. Get one for $5 and install it yourself if you want to. Way easy. It's right there under the plastic shroud on top of the engine.
5) If you want. Nothing bad is likely to happen if you don't, especially with such low mileage. Many people don't actually do this on their cars, ever...
6) They want to change your cabin air filter. Good idea, but do it yourself. It's behind the glove box, takes 30 seconds to change out.
7) pfft
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Old 01-10-2017, 07:24 PM   #5
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Thanks for your information. My replies under --

Quote:
Originally Posted by scratchpaddy View Post
1) If you have jumper cables, or AAA, or your insurance has roadside support, forget it. Keep that battery until the car won't start.
--Yes, I do have roadside support.


Quote:
Originally Posted by scratchpaddy View Post
2) Maybe, if the belt is as old as the car, but this is very easy to do yourself.
--Yes, can consider this


Quote:
Originally Posted by scratchpaddy View Post
3) pfft
--Agree


Quote:
Originally Posted by scratchpaddy View Post
4) I think this is a 100k item. Get one for $5 and install it yourself if you want to. Way easy. It's right there under the plastic shroud on top of the engine.
--So why do it now if it is a 100K item?


Quote:
Originally Posted by scratchpaddy View Post
5) If you want. Nothing bad is likely to happen if you don't, especially with such low mileage. Many people don't actually do this on their cars, ever...
--That is what I thought


Quote:
Originally Posted by scratchpaddy View Post
6) They want to change your cabin air filter. Good idea, but do it yourself.
It's behind the glove box, takes 30 seconds to change out.
--Yes, did change Engine Air Filter but think I might have missed replacing Cabin Air Filter. The term A/C Vent kind of threw me off there.


Quote:
Originally Posted by scratchpaddy View Post
7) pfft
--Agree
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Old 01-09-2017, 09:11 PM   #6
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At 48K, I'd replace engine filter and A/C cabin filter myself at about $10 (for both) and 10 minutes of labour. I'd check the belt to see if it actually needs to be changed. That's it. BTW, what were the results of a battery test? You wouldn't want your wife to be left stranded.
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Old 01-10-2017, 07:27 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kimona View Post
At 48K, I'd replace engine filter and A/C cabin filter myself at about $10 (for both) and 10 minutes of labour. I'd check the belt to see if it actually needs to be changed. That's it. BTW, what were the results of a battery test? You wouldn't want your wife to be left stranded.
Thank you for the information.

Can take a look at the belt and replace the Cabin Filter (maybe I forgot and replaced only the Engine Air Filter earlier).

But other than that, all else looks like a st(d)ealer list to me.

Wife never knew to ask for Battery Test results, so no go there. Wondering if I should call the dealer and ask.

Since battery has not given any problems yet, I don't think it would die just one day. I thought it would start giving problems - multiple cranks needed to start etc. etc. which would be an indication of "not holding charge". Isn't it?
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Old 01-10-2017, 08:07 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nkaufman View Post
Thank you for the information.

Since battery has not given any problems yet, I don't think it would die just one day. I thought it would start giving problems - multiple cranks needed to start etc. etc. which would be an indication of "not holding charge". Isn't it?
TBH In my experience with dead batteries they virtually just died. Or at least barely were able to start the car on the second time which allowed me to get a new one before I was stranded.

This is in a cold climate but all my batteries (about 3 of them) have died in the summer months.

One of them I actually warned my wife about and luckily sent my jumper cables with her when she went 3 hours up North for work the next morning and sure enough after her meeting her car wouldn't start. The crazy thing is the only reason I knew was by a very and I mean very slight difference in pitch of the noise when I cranked her car to start the day before. Absolutely no issues in cranking over until it died.

The list from the dealer is far from the manufacturers recommendations but in all honesty it is not really excessive in terms of wanting to keep your car preventatively maintained and functioning. I tend to not like to over wrench a car needlessly (ie: my oil changes are every 15k km as per oil analysis) but I would do almost everything on that list at one time or another before I got to those miles maybe for the exception of battery and belts if they check out fine.

The PCV valve doesn't need to be replaced just remove it an spray it with brake cleaner through both ends and shake it. I do this every oil change and although it is never clogged or even close, it does gum itself up a bit every time I check it. The noise when I shake it is significantly different after I clean it.

I would recommend checking brakes once a year and servicing and adjusting them. The rear drum adjuster tend to not work well and I like the hand brake to be firm. If brakes are not lubed ever few years up here they start to seize due to the amount of salt and crap on our roads.
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Old 01-09-2017, 09:58 PM   #9
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Brake maintenance is not a bad idea. But generally people don't do it and just change the rotor and pads when it rusts.

Rear drums should be cleaned and adjusted for maximum performance. Notice how many clicks you need to pull the handbrake...

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Old 01-11-2017, 06:28 AM   #10
nkaufman
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IllusionX View Post
Brake maintenance is not a bad idea. But generally people don't do it and just change the rotor and pads when it rusts.

Rear drums should be cleaned and adjusted for maximum performance. Notice how many clicks you need to pull the handbrake...

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
Thanks for the information.

Will take a look and see how many clicks I need to pull the handbrake and post here.
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Old 01-10-2017, 08:12 PM   #11
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The cabin air filter is often overlooked. It's only for your comfort, but it can really make a difference. I always get the carbon filter ones. They really help with odors.

Batteries don't always give signs before they give out. On another car I had in the past (a Cobalt), the car started quickly, no problem, every day, then it wouldn't even crank one morning, and would not hold a charge at all after jumping. I wasn't thinking about the fact that this is your wife's car. You might want ask the dealer what they found, exactly. Is there a date code on your battery?
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Old 01-13-2017, 12:25 PM   #12
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Sounds similar to what I had done

My 07 Yaris was taken to Canadian Tire rather than dealership for the first 4 years I owned it. Just as a data point of comparison:

1. Battery was tested at 6.5 years old, 92k km. Was told it was "almost dead." Replaced with MotoMaster Eliminator. I'm pretty sure if I take it to Canadian tire, they wouldn't find a problem with the battery today, because they're on the hook for the pro-rated warranty for 10 years. So my battery was probably replaced somewhat pre-maturely, as it never had any problem starting, no matter how cold it was.

2. ATF drain and fill: Done at 110k km, with Castrol import ATF, because whoever checked it said "it was black". 2 years later, it was done again, at Toyota dealership, when I took it in for a recall and had "scheduled maintaince done."

3. Drum brake service: done at 112k km. Not sure if any was done before 92k km. When I took it into dealership at 121k km, both front and rear brakes required service. The rear brake needed replacement, to the tune ot $600+ CAD.

4. Belts: I replace a belt twice while I owned this Yaris, both times due to a loud squeaking noise. Both times cost $50 for labor (half hour) and $20 for aftermarket belt.

Now, having shown all these work done, keep in mind that when I take my car into Canadian Tire, I didn't pay them to inspect this and inspect that. They did oil change, or seasonal tire rotation, and then they look around for things to do, on spec.

The two times I took it into dealership for recall repairs, I also went for "recommended maintaince." The labor on these scheduled maintenance was $132 each time, which included the labor, but not parts of an oil change. The first time, they found front pipe gasket cracked, and both brakes in not so great shape. Plus engine and cabin air filter. So it came to $1000+ CAD, including the cost of looking for things wrong. The second time, which happened 10 months later, they did coolant and ATF replacement, plus "EFI service." Oh, and cabin air filter.

Now, since you went into for an oil change on special, you can expect the dealership to find things wrong with your car, to make up for the loss dealer that is the oil change oil special. At least you're not paying them for the privilege of looking for things to do on your car.
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