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Old 12-22-2016, 07:55 PM   #1
myfirstyota
just new to yotas...
 
Drives: 2007 Yaris lb, 2008 Ram Larami
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Toronto Canada
Posts: 8
Odd cargo light behaviour

So heres the story, I came out to my car this morning to find the Trunk/cargo light on. ('07 base hatchback) At first I thought I didn't fully close the hatch the night before. However when I went to load my workboots and gear in the back I realized the hatch was fully closed and seated properly. I tried to open and close the hatch and even got a bit rough, hoping it would free up a switch. No go. Light was lit the whole way to work.

Now I'll add I have swapped the incandescent bulb to a led strip that's glued to the c-pillar. This has worked perfectly for about 3 months. I spliced into the existing cargo lamp harness and removed the incandescent bulb from its socket.

Now for the odd bits, the door ajar indicator lamp in the instrument cluster could either be lit or not depending how it feels. The cargo lamp (led strip spliced into OEM cargo lamp wires) goes off instantly when the brakes are applied. The dome light is working properly (same fuse). When I pull the under hood fuse, the LEDs slowly fade to off. When I disconnected the latch from the hatch the LEDs stayed on (not sure if that's normal). When I close the hatch they dim slightly. When the hatch is open, they are at full brightness (makes me think the hatch latch switch is working). Also with the dome light fuse removed the door ajar lamp seems to function properly.

After reading some posts here, I've removed the latch and cleaned it with parts cleaner (thinking maybe moisture or dirt got In there) this was also a no go. All bolts are tight, and there's no weather stripping issues (also mentioned in other threads)


So basically I'm asking wtf? Lol

Thanks for any input!
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Old 12-23-2016, 04:30 AM   #2
dogsridewith
 
Drives: 2007 2-door hatchback
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: USAnotCA
Posts: 129
hatch latch switch lamp light emitting diode incandescent

91 Corolla electricals/electronics have shown relatively great reliability, but all door and hatch opening switches have progressively fouled w/ road dust that is hard to remove. (I haven't tried contact cleaner or other fluids for concern of harming plastic part(s).)
For Yaris, I wanted something that used less than the 4 watts of the OEM incandescent...which someday will go for 100.00 + on Ebay (needed for perfect restorations, and loved for their warm orange glow).
1 watt Sylvania Zevo LED #6418 was 9.95 at Advanced Auto. It throws a lot of very white light back there in the stock Yaris fixture.

Last edited by dogsridewith; 12-24-2016 at 04:18 PM.
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Old 12-23-2016, 08:56 PM   #3
CoryM
 
Drives: 2009 5-door, 5-speed
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: White Rock BC
Posts: 598
Step one would be to remove/rewire the aftermarket LEDs. Pretty sure when the dome lamp is in the "door" position, it grounds via the hatch lamp and ECU. I think you've get leakage, the LED is confusing the ECU, or you have removed/bypassed a ground/diode.

Cheers.
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Old 12-24-2016, 05:16 AM   #4
myfirstyota
just new to yotas...
 
Drives: 2007 Yaris lb, 2008 Ram Larami
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Toronto Canada
Posts: 8
Would that cause the issue to arise after considerable time has passed with everything working properly? I don't doubt what your saying, and I have disconnected the LEDs temporarily as I'm off work for a few weeks and won't be needing to load my gear in the dark mornings for a while. I was just thinking running my own power and a switch. Easy peasy, problem solved. But would be nice figure out what went wrong.
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Old 12-24-2016, 03:12 PM   #5
CoryM
 
Drives: 2009 5-door, 5-speed
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: White Rock BC
Posts: 598
It certainly can as the LED assembly fails and the resistance changes. Most aftermarket electronics are nowhere near the same quality as OEM. If there is aftermarket stuff on a circuit that is acting oddly, it's very likely to be the problem.

Keep in mind this is just an educated/experienced guess from thousands of KM away: It's entirely possible that it is another issue, but I'd bet it's the LEDs.

Cheers.
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