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Old 09-22-2010, 09:54 AM   #73
geniusmiki
 
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The black one is for the Door lock receiver. Does your Yaris have a manual or automatic transmission. If it's a manual, then the other two are for the A/T shift illumination and for the shift lock control ECU.
It's manual trasmission.

so nothing that i can upgrade?
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Old 09-22-2010, 10:54 AM   #74
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I just want to take a minute to say a big, fat THANK YOU to ctscott for his help on these boards.

I have used a lot of your info and I believe you deserve at least this much appreciation!

Thanks, brother!
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Old 10-21-2010, 10:23 PM   #75
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it tried tapping the light blue wire at the headlight switch, but now my headlight wont turn off and the lights on my power window switches are on all the time?

did i just do a bad job tapping this? or can i not tap the light blue wire for my power window switches?

thanks,
nick
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Old 10-21-2010, 10:28 PM   #76
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it tried tapping the light blue wire at the headlight switch, but now my headlight wont turn off and the lights on my power window switches are on all the time?
Tried tapping that wire for what purpose?
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Old 10-22-2010, 11:27 AM   #77
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the power window switches i got light up at night when the headlights are on
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Old 10-22-2010, 11:44 AM   #78
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the power window switches i got light up at night when the headlights are on
OK. First off there are two blue wires on the headlight stalk. The "light blue" is the darker of the two. The other color is called "sky blue".

Secondly, you don't want to use a high current circuit, like the headlight switch, to drive interior lighting. You want to use the illumination circuit, which you can access either at the shift lever or at the dimmer rheostat.

At the shift lever, there is a two pin connector with a white and a green wire. Green is +12, white is ground.

At the dimmer rheostat, there is a 10 pin connector. The sky blue wire is +12 and the light green is the headlight switched ground.
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Old 10-26-2010, 01:57 PM   #79
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^^ awesome thanks so much for the info!!!
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Old 10-26-2010, 10:26 PM   #80
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So i tried the sky-blue wire at the dimmer and it works. However its dimming the power window switches in the opposite direction as the dash. So when the dash is fully lit, the power window switches are not lit at all and vice-versa.

I checked the connection with my multi-meter and it is indeed +12V so im not sure whats wrong.

My car is MT so there is no shift lever, is there another headlight source i can tap?

Thanks for the help!

Last edited by nmd55; 10-26-2010 at 10:42 PM.
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Old 10-26-2010, 10:48 PM   #81
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So i tried the sky-blue wire at the dimmer and it works. However its dimming the power window switches in the opposite direction at the dash. So when the dash is fully lit, the power window switches are not lit at all and vice-versa.

I checked the connection with my multi-meter and it is indeed +12V so im not sure whats wrong.

Thanks for the help!
That's correct. Is the light wiring on your switch separate from the switch controls, or is it integrated, where it shares the same ground? It sounds like the latter, as the dimmer brings the ground up, rather than the +12 down to do the dimming. If that's the case, using green as your + and chassis ground as your ground should correct the reversed behavior.
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Old 10-26-2010, 11:25 PM   #82
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as it turns out i was tapping the LG wire the whole time thats why it was dimming in the opposite direction. However the SB wire is an ignition switched 12V, so tapping that doesnt work either because the switches are on all the time with the SB wire.

I think i am going to have to find another source to tap.

Last edited by nmd55; 10-27-2010 at 12:41 AM.
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Old 10-27-2010, 08:23 PM   #83
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as it turns out i was tapping the LG wire the whole time thats why it was dimming in the opposite direction. However the SB wire is an ignition switched 12V, so tapping that doesnt work either because the switches are on all the time with the SB wire.

I think i am going to have to find another source to tap.

I just realized that I gave you the wrong wire for the +. Use the brown on the dimmer rheostat, not the blue.
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Old 03-19-2011, 07:44 AM   #84
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If you tap the pink and blue, the LEDs will behave the same as them dome lights, provided that you leave the dome light switch in the "Door" position. If you manually switch the dome to "On", with the doors closed, the LEDs won't light up with the dome.
Hi, how do you suggest wiring LEDs so that they behave exactly like the dome light does? ie. turn on when doors open, switch to ON - light up with dome light. thanks
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Old 03-19-2011, 09:50 AM   #85
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Hi, how do you suggest wiring LEDs so that they behave exactly like the dome light does? ie. turn on when doors open, switch to ON - light up with dome light. thanks
The only way to make them function exactly the same as the dome, including the switched on mode is to run the power wire up through the headliner to the dome light and make your connection there.
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Old 03-23-2011, 09:19 AM   #86
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The only way to make them function exactly the same as the dome, including the switched on mode is to run the power wire up through the headliner to the dome light and make your connection there.
Thanks! I just tapped power for my 12V footwell LEDs from the 4K connector, pink/blue wires. However, I used some old wires from my old computer (more or less same thickness/gauge as the pink/blue ones, quite thin). I think they're around 22-26AWG, same as the original pink/blue wires, however the pink/blue wires may be solid copper core, while the wires I'm using are stranded aluminum.

Now I'm worried they might catch fire/melt/burn. What's your opinion on this? Should I get thicker gauge wires and redo the whole thing?

Last edited by iicaie; 03-23-2011 at 11:41 AM.
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Old 03-23-2011, 12:15 PM   #87
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Thanks! I just tapped power for my 12V footwell LEDs from the 4K connector, pink/blue wires. However, I used some old wires from my old computer (more or less same thickness/gauge as the pink/blue ones, quite thin). I think they're around 22-26AWG, same as the original pink/blue wires, however the pink/blue wires may be solid copper core, while the wires I'm using are stranded aluminum.

Now I'm worried they might catch fire/melt/burn. What's your opinion on this? Should I get thicker gauge wires and redo the whole thing?
That feed is fused by the DOME fuse. As long as your wires are sized appropriately for that FUSE you will be fine.
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Old 03-23-2011, 10:56 PM   #88
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That feed is fused by the DOME fuse. As long as your wires are sized appropriately for that FUSE you will be fine.
This is what i'm trying to figure out, Scott. Cos the wires i used were pretty thin, 26AWG. I dont know the gauge of the original pink/blue wires coming out of the 4K connector to the dome light,
but they look pretty much the same.
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Old 03-23-2011, 11:11 PM   #89
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This is what i'm trying to figure out, Scott. Cos the wires i used were pretty thin, 26AWG. I dont know the gauge of the original pink/blue wires coming out of the 4K connector to the dome light,
but they look pretty much the same.
Those wires are actually 20AWG. Your 26AWG is only rated for 2.2 Amps, so to be safe you should add a 2A inline fuse between it and your new lighting.
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Old 04-23-2011, 07:40 PM   #90
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I put an aftermarket stereo in my 07 hatch but I couldn't find the dimmer wire.

The stereo has this feature.

This blue light is almost blinding at night.

Is there a dimmer wire in the stereo bundle?
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