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Old 08-12-2009, 12:14 AM   #19
Sir A.Y. Atoyot
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shroomster View Post
THE LAST TWO POSTS (AND THIS ONE) NEED TO BE DELETED BEFORE THIS THREAD GETS TURNED INTO A FLAME WAR. I don't think they add anything to the topic at hand, just negativity.


I already stated that it would be wise to use a rubber mallet (if the alt) is stubborn.

PLUS Morgan did a retrofit charger on her car so please do not attack her mechanical prowess.
Why do you want to delete my post? I just said that hammering on an alternator was a very bad idea, potentially disastrous financially. I said it politely, not in a flameworthy manner. If terrible advice is left unchallenged, some inexperienced people might take it seriously.

Here's another bit of free advice (I spent years working as an auto electric mechanic, so I've tightened a lot of alternators.) When you're prying on an alternator to adjust the belt tension, make sure that your pry bar only contacts the front housing, which is thick and strong enough to take it. Putting a lot of force on a rear housing can very easily crack it, or even shatter it.
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Old 08-12-2009, 09:44 AM   #20
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Another good point noted above.

BTW...why does putting a supercharger on a 4cyl car automatically mean that you actually know something or use common sense for that matter?
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Old 08-12-2009, 01:01 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
There are tools called belt tension gauges. They are either generic ones that measure torque in ft lbs or in lbs or they are manufacturer specific ones. The mfg specific ones are calibrated for a specific amount of force. You press the spring loaded gauge against the belt and read the scale.

I personally don't own one. For something like the spec above, I press against the center of the belt span with one finger and look for about that much deflection.
Sweet thanks for the info. Further to this, I went to my local PartSource and asked if they had any belt tension gauges, and the guy there looked at me like I was an alien and told me there was no such thing.

I'll try the finger press thing and see.
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Old 12-15-2010, 12:32 AM   #22
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Where can I find the Serpentine Belt Routing Diagram?
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Old 12-15-2010, 12:46 AM   #23
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Where can I find the Serpentine Belt Routing Diagram?
yaris belt.jpg
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Old 03-20-2011, 04:15 PM   #24
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help?

Any guidance on this issue would be appreciated. I have spent two hours trying to loosen the bolt at the bottom of the alternator to no avail. I have tried some pb blaster as well. I have nothing to show for my effort except sore hands. Does anyone know the trick to getting this bolt loose? The space is really awkward to get good torque so I tried a universal extension, but am still having no luck. The replacement belt only cost me $11 but paying someone else to replace it is starting to look pretty good.
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Old 03-20-2011, 05:30 PM   #25
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^^ Do you have a breaker bar?
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Old 03-20-2011, 07:45 PM   #26
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It will come loose. Initially I had to use a 1/2 " drive and move the ac line bracket. Now a 3/8 inch drive gets it.
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Old 07-01-2011, 09:09 AM   #28
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What size socket is the bottom bolt? 14 seems like it is slightly loose. I cant find my 5/8 socket to try. Also have a problem getting a 1/2 inch drive ratchet in there and being so tight I dont think 3/8 ratchet will break it loose.
Any advice on breaking it loose? I wish I had air ratchet to use.
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Old 07-01-2011, 09:40 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by bankrobber View Post
What size socket is the bottom bolt? 14 seems like it is slightly loose. I cant find my 5/8 socket to try. Also have a problem getting a 1/2 inch drive ratchet in there and being so tight I dont think 3/8 ratchet will break it loose.
Any advice on breaking it loose? I wish I had air ratchet to use.
It's definitely 14mm, as I had mine off last weekend to install my supercharger. I used a 3/8" ratchet with a piece of pipe on the handle for more leverage.
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Old 07-01-2011, 09:59 AM   #30
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Thanks gonna go give it a try. Got 114K miles on my 2007 and belt looking tired.

Last edited by bankrobber; 07-01-2011 at 10:00 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old 07-01-2011, 11:13 AM   #31
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Done. Very simple job. Not as easy as my Dodge Ram. Kinda a PITA with a sideways engine. Think I got the tension good. Just a FIY found the same belt on Amazon for 11 dollars after I already bought one from Autozone for 20 w/tax with 3 year warranty
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Old 07-17-2011, 11:24 PM   #32
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Whats the recommended belt brand and best place to buy it.
Thanks
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Old 07-18-2011, 04:35 PM   #33
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In the South I buy from AutoZone. They always honor the lifetime warranty with no reciepts. Napa or PepBoys is a good place to buy also.
Use Part Number: 5040465 Dayco Brand
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Old 07-18-2011, 04:59 PM   #34
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I think this is done and gone, but I just wanted to say that I recently did this to my Egg. She has about 90K on her and needed a new belt. The bottom bolt is on there REEEEALLY good. I had to use a socket wrench and put a tube on the end to extend the fulcrum and had to make sure the socket I was using was the exact right size.
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Old 07-23-2011, 04:57 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by bankrobber View Post
In the South I buy from AutoZone. They always honor the lifetime warranty with no reciepts. Napa or PepBoys is a good place to buy also.
Use Part Number: 5040465 Dayco Brand
Thanks Bankrobber for the reply, I will go with Autozone with the 3 year warranty.
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Old 02-23-2012, 11:42 PM   #36
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I replaced the belt going on 6 months.
Had to tighten the belt at least 5 times due to screeching.
Seems like the belt stretches a little every time.
(I marked the original location of the bolt)
Belt looks good, maybe this Dayco is just cheap or defective.
Probably will see if I can return it under warranty.

Are the gates any better or just go get the OEM from the dealer (on-line)?

Can someone tell me what the actual torque for the two bolts are?
Thanks
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