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Old 02-27-2012, 07:59 PM   #37
othater
 
Drives: 07SedanS06Taco
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: SoCal, SanGabriel
Posts: 52
Got a replacement serpentine belt.
Still a Dayco but a better quality one. Store would only give me credit for the same brand.
Originally went with the part number above. Didn't know they came in different grades.
So far so good.
Sure was easier the second time replacing.
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Old 04-08-2012, 05:58 PM   #38
Illryion
 
Drives: 2007 Yaris Hatchback
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: United States
Posts: 2
Just used this guide - thanks all. Easy Peasy.
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Old 04-09-2012, 07:08 AM   #39
DARKSCOPE001
 
Drives: 2011 Yaris sedan
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Pickerington Ohio
Posts: 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiteless View Post
I think this is done and gone, but I just wanted to say that I recently did this to my Egg. She has about 90K on her and needed a new belt. The bottom bolt is on there REEEEALLY good. I had to use a socket wrench and put a tube on the end to extend the fulcrum and had to make sure the socket I was using was the exact right size.
heat, time, patients and penetrating oil is your friend lol. im sure you already knew that. But I cant stress enough. Soak those stuborn bolts with penetrating oil. Heat is always good, Taps with a hammer. And time. Always time. Soak them go eat a sandwich. Come back and soak again. hell soak 3 times a day for a week. That bolt didnt become stuck overnight so its not giving up the battle in a minute. Also try different kinds of penetrating oils. I find that some work better in one case and others work better in another. Also get some Kroil or aerokroil it will make pb look like water.

Best Luck.
Sean Scott
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Old 03-18-2013, 07:58 PM   #40
the rev
I've made a post!
 
Drives: 2010 Yaris
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: St. Louis MO
Posts: 1
So, first off, thanks for the great guide!

Second, a word of caution to those who wish to undertake this:
You need to oil the crap out of the bottom bolt, several times, and let it sit BEFORE endeavoring to remove it! They apparently make these bolt heads out of pudding (on the 2010 anyway), and it will round right off with little effort. Oil it (from the backside) and let it sit.

Happy motoring!
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Old 10-04-2013, 06:22 AM   #41
Toolaholic
 
Drives: Olive yaris, white highlander
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Pa
Posts: 41
To loosen and tighten lower alternator bolt from the top w/o removing a/c line brackets use a slim head 3/8 ratchet(I used a armstrong 10-994), 3/8 to 1/4 adapter(this is right length to clear front of alternator that sticks out over bolt) and a quality 1/4 drive 14mm six point socket( I used a craftsman USA 1st time and a proto the second time{fit tighter than craftsman}).A gearwrench 3/8 torque wrench fits w/ the 3/8 to 1/4 adapter and 1/4 drive socket. It's still tight w/ a/c brackets left on. You must tilt ratchet/ext/socket at a 45 degree angle and slip over 14mm bolt. Getting socket on bolt straight on doesn't work cause of a /c bracket being on the way. You can also loosen and tighten lower bolt from the front w/ a flex head ratchet flexed to the right( looking from front of car ). I pryed w/ a gearwrench 16" prybar. If you pry from top be careful prybar wants to slip in alternator vent holes. You can pry from the side w/ the gearwrench ( you must adjust flex head accordingly ). Hope this helps.
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