Toyota Yaris Forums - Ultimate Yaris Enthusiast Site
 

 


 
Go Back   Toyota Yaris Forums - Ultimate Yaris Enthusiast Site > Technical Forums > DIY / Maintenance / Service
  The Tire Rack

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 08-30-2013, 02:55 PM   #19
wajeehr
 
Drives: Toyota Vitz
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Lahore Pakistan
Posts: 6
Hello people
i am also having a similar problem these days with my yaris ..
can anybody tell me what is the definite solution ??
wajeehr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2013, 03:04 PM   #20
CTScott
ULTIMATE
 
CTScott's Avatar
 
Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,455
Quote:
Originally Posted by wajeehr View Post
Hello people
i am also having a similar problem these days with my yaris ..
can anybody tell me what is the definite solution ??
The only definite solution is to replace the fuse sender. If you are interested I have one for sale For $25 + shipping on my part-out thread:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46798
CTScott is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2014, 11:04 AM   #21
goosefraba
 
Drives: 2012 se
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: texas
Posts: 3
Fellows,

My 2012 SE's fuel gauge is not right. It started off by dropping to the low fuel light from 3/4 tank within a 20 minutes span... kept there for a couple days... then jumped to full after filling the tank... wandered a bit then popped up to full... stayed on full for 180 miles, then dropped to the low fuel light. Interestingly, the "range" display in miles computed accurately at one point with the Trip meter for a while, but jumped to back to wacky. I guess it will periodically take a tank reading in the computation? Last night, the gauge moved from fuel light and is now reading 1/4 tank steady (110 miles on tank, so the reading is still wrong).

I am out of warranty so would like to fix this myself. Do you recommend replacing the sender first? If replacing the sender, does the sender unit itself pop out of the pump/filter assembly, and does the wire pair connector pop out as well = meaning easy? I have a good idea what it takes to remove the assembly from the tank, but want to make sure there are no gotchas.

Are there fuses to try or would you recommend running diagnostics from the harness connector that plugs into the instrument cluster (which CTScott described which wires/pins to check ohms in a fuel gauge thread).

One problem is that I do not have a service manual and do formal instructions of how to remove the rear seat properly and how to get to the gauge cluster without possibly breaking stuff!! It seems to me that the service/repair manuals are not very available. Do you know a good source for a manual?
Thanks
goosefraba is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2014, 12:50 PM   #22
CTScott
ULTIMATE
 
CTScott's Avatar
 
Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,455
Quote:
Originally Posted by goosefraba View Post
Fellows,

My 2012 SE's fuel gauge is not right. It started off by dropping to the low fuel light from 3/4 tank within a 20 minutes span... kept there for a couple days... then jumped to full after filling the tank... wandered a bit then popped up to full... stayed on full for 180 miles, then dropped to the low fuel light. Interestingly, the "range" display in miles computed accurately at one point with the Trip meter for a while, but jumped to back to wacky. I guess it will periodically take a tank reading in the computation? Last night, the gauge moved from fuel light and is now reading 1/4 tank steady (110 miles on tank, so the reading is still wrong).

I am out of warranty so would like to fix this myself. Do you recommend replacing the sender first? If replacing the sender, does the sender unit itself pop out of the pump/filter assembly, and does the wire pair connector pop out as well = meaning easy? I have a good idea what it takes to remove the assembly from the tank, but want to make sure there are no gotchas.

Are there fuses to try or would you recommend running diagnostics from the harness connector that plugs into the instrument cluster (which CTScott described which wires/pins to check ohms in a fuel gauge thread).

One problem is that I do not have a service manual and do formal instructions of how to remove the rear seat properly and how to get to the gauge cluster without possibly breaking stuff!! It seems to me that the service/repair manuals are not very available. Do you know a good source for a manual?
Thanks
For your 3rd gen:

Once you get into the connector for the cluster, the fuel gauge comes in on the green wire in pin 16 of the 40 pin connector. There is a blue wire next to it in pin 17 and a brown wire on the opposite side of it in pin 14.

Looking at the connector from the back side where the wires come in and with the connector latch up:

20........1
40........21

If you unplug the connector from the cluster you can measure the resistance on the green wire (put one meter lead on it and the other on a chassis ground or any wire that is white with a black stripe).

The resistance with vary based on the fuel level and I believe that the 3rd gen uses the same sender as the 2nd gen, where the resistance goes from 13.5 ohms with a full tank to 414 ohms when empty.

If your fuel sender has a bad section, you will likely see a very high or open circuit reading when it drops from 3/4 to empty on you.

To remove the cluster you just pull the trim around it off with your finger tips. Once that is off just remove the mounting screws to pull the cluster out.
CTScott is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2014, 08:22 PM   #23
goosefraba
 
Drives: 2012 se
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: texas
Posts: 3
Thanks CTScott. The instrument panel was a really easy remove.. just pulled the trim gently and slowly, removed the 2 screws, then tilted it out.

I got a reading of 0 ohms with gauge stuck on the full mark before taking the reading. 117 miles on tank, so clearly the sender is not giving the resistance within the 13.5 to 414 ohms. 117 miles is roughly 3.4ish gallons from full. It makes sense that 0 ohms would peg the needle to full mark if less ohms is full and more ohms is empty.

I am going to take another reading after the gauge needle moves and sticks again. It would be nice to have an actual number correlation to the gauge needle being anywhere between the full and empty marks.... but based on this I think I am pretty certain the sender is bad.
goosefraba is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2014, 08:45 PM   #24
CTScott
ULTIMATE
 
CTScott's Avatar
 
Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,455
Quote:
Originally Posted by goosefraba View Post
Thanks CTScott. The instrument panel was a really easy remove.. just pulled the trim gently and slowly, removed the 2 screws, then tilted it out.

I got a reading of 0 ohms with gauge stuck on the full mark before taking the reading. 117 miles on tank, so clearly the sender is not giving the resistance within the 13.5 to 414 ohms. 117 miles is roughly 3.4ish gallons from full. It makes sense that 0 ohms would peg the needle to full mark if less ohms is full and more ohms is empty.

I am going to take another reading after the gauge needle moves and sticks again. It would be nice to have an actual number correlation to the gauge needle being anywhere between the full and empty marks.... but based on this I think I am pretty certain the sender is bad.
Lower resistance does equal more fuel, but its should not hit zero ohms, even when completely full.
CTScott is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-07-2014, 07:25 AM   #25
johannes
 
Drives: Yaris P1 1l 2000
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Berlin, germany
Posts: 9
Dear CTScott,

as I have found several posts concerning fuel pump problems, where you provided help: can you probably give me a hint how to get the pump out of a Yaris mk1 from 2000? My problem is shown in this thread:
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52565

Best regards, Johannes
johannes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-15-2014, 11:00 AM   #26
goosefraba
 
Drives: 2012 se
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: texas
Posts: 3
Problem update: I replaced the fuel sender and the gauge appears to be working fine. It did take some time for the instrument cluster to reach the tank level and stabilize right after the repair (20 miles or so). I did add a couple gallons for observation and the gauge needle followed accordingly. I drove around some, then filled up again. I will continue to monitor it, but it looks like it will be a winner.

Thanks CTS for the help. I was able to order the part with confidence that it would fix the issue. I used the 2007 repair manual Fuel section for reference and for how to bleed the fuel pressure down before removing the pressured fuel line. I used a 2 legged wheel puller with a crescent wrench to turn the large plastic ring. I did so by positioning the legs such that they were between the fins of the plastic ring, then torqued the whole thing by one of the puller's legs with the crecent wrench. I did not use the puller as a puller. For re-installation of the ring it helped to index the beginning of thread of the ring with the beginning of the thread of the tank. Also it helps if the tank is more towards empty since the fuel pump assy floats up and has to be pushed and held down in position while starting re-threading the plastic ring.

Last edited by goosefraba; 09-16-2014 at 06:54 AM.
goosefraba is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2015, 09:12 PM   #27
cavramopoulos
 
Drives: 2012 yaris hatchback le
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Canada
Posts: 5
hi everyone, i drive a 2012 yaris hatchback and i noticed that when i first bought the car when i shut it off the gas gauge automaically went down, however now 2.5 years later it stays in place until the car is locked. does anyone else have this problem and if so have you gotten it fixed?
cavramopoulos is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2015, 09:13 AM   #28
cavramopoulos
 
Drives: 2012 yaris hatchback le
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Canada
Posts: 5
also another question...I noticed when I first turn my key in the ignition and all my warning symbols come on, the low fuel symbol does not light up...is that normal? I purposely ran my car out of gas this morning and the light did not turn on when it has in the past when I have about 5 litres left.
cavramopoulos is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
fuel, fuel gauge, gas, gauge, sedan

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Miles per tank joeharth Fuel Economy Forum 61 07-08-2010 07:37 PM
Launching @ 4Krpm problem .... need tips Parmas Wheels, Tires and Suspension Forum sponsored by The Tire Rack 12 12-30-2009 09:11 PM
The last gas question Tonavi DIY / Maintenance / Service 56 04-27-2009 08:40 PM
Low fuel light falkor_99 General Yaris / Vitz Discussion 35 08-24-2007 03:20 PM
Fuel / Temp / Mileage Gauge - Special LED Readings? bigsky2 General Yaris / Vitz Discussion 3 05-31-2006 09:04 AM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:37 PM.




YarisWorld
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.