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Old 07-10-2016, 09:49 AM   #1
David C
 
Drives: White '07 3dr LB
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Montreal
Posts: 323
Power inverter & flat deck (looking for insight)

Hi, I'd like to know which way is the best to run a #1 AWG single conductor from the battery to the rear of the passenger seat in a 2007 3dr HB. I'm mainly looking for the best location to have the wire transition between the engine compartment and the interior of the car. Since my car has had rust prevention treatment, the engine room is fully coated in dark greasy substance and it makes it hard to work around without a mess (did I mention the car is white ?).

I've already removed the rear bench seat and front passenger seat, lifted the carpet and lay down convoluted foam panels to help noise reduction, then re-installed the front passenger seat and the lower rear bench frame to serve as a support for the flat deck I wanna build. I plan on moving the spare tire where the rear bench was, on driver's side, and lay a 1/2" plywood the size the former seat cushion that will rest on yet to be made pillars to make the plywood the same height as the rear cargo cover trap door. The spare tire actually would fit perfectly in the height between the fuel tank and the plywood, meaning I then gain use of the rear cargo cavity for more accessible storage. I yet have to determine how I will brace the plywood to the frame, since it's been raining for the last few days.

I will also add a 1000w pure sine inverter under the new deck, on the passenger side, as well as a powered sub underneath the driver's seat (got the SSL Lopro8). I will cut off the tabs that hold the jack in place to be able to lay the sub flat where the jack used to be and relocate the jack next to the spare tire under the new deck. The only thread I found about such a mod unfortunately had broken URL links to the images, which didn't proved very helpful to figure out the installation of a flat deck. I'm hoping to hear more about such mod.

Thanks !
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Old 12-12-2016, 05:04 PM   #2
David C
 
Drives: White '07 3dr LB
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Montreal
Posts: 323
All done

Despite the lack of input on this particular thread, I managed to build up a more complete knowledge of the car and the mods from reading around and poking questions in the last year. Slowly, I found out more about my car and what others have done already and started building my own custom setup.

Yesterday I finally completed my setup, turning temporary wiring and installation into a permanent and clean setup. Maybe I overdid a few things, but I had fun in the process. Being an electrician, I often do things a little too much when it comes to non-regulated areas such as low voltage work. Plus I'm young, so I like to try out new ways of getting somewhere instead of taking the well beaten path sometimes.

Without wasting anymore time, here's my work :
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Old 12-12-2016, 05:52 PM   #3
David C
 
Drives: White '07 3dr LB
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Montreal
Posts: 323
First thing I did was upgrading the head unit to a Kenwood Excelon 599 in June, then a SSL LoPro 8 powered sub in August. In between the head unit and sub upgrades, I removed the rear bench and made a flat deck with a 3/4" plywood. I ran a 1AWG flex cable from the front battery to the rear and installed a 1000w pure sine inverter under the flat deck. This setup didn't changed till september/october when I moved everything around and started working on an integrated onboard system. Using 1/2" plywood and quality exterior paint, I crafted a floor board to fit behind the front seats as a base to receive a group 27 deep cycle battery, a battery switch, automatic charging relay, fused distribution block, timer relay with socket, provisions for 4 relays (2 currently installed), 12 ports terminal bar (I have a 10-wires cable running to the front driver's kick-panel for control and data transfert) and a negative bus bar.

I ran 3/0 welding cable from the secondary battery to the inverter, plus an external on/off switch in parallel to the factory one.

Shielded components cable to the sub plus feeding with 8ga THHNE stranded.

The Blue Sea Systems automatic charging relay (ACR) can accept up to 65A continuous or 125A intermittent (5 minutes), wired with 4ga flex cable and protected with 100amp fuses both ways. This ACR features a Start Isolation inputs to isolate batteries while the engine is cranking, since the ACR isn't designed to handle cranking amps (although its intermittent rating is above the required cranking amps of the starter). The ACR combines battery banks when sensing a charge and isolate them when both batteries enter discharge (below a preset voltage). The battery switch allows for bypassing of the ACR isolation for raw power needs (when using the inverter with the engine running or for engine starts off the secondary battery). 1ga flex cable links both battery.

A bolt-on 8 ports fused distribution block fed by 4ga flex wire (max 30amp per port, 100amp max input) feeds my sub, head unit, relays, extra horn and future auxiliary add-ons.

The 8 pin DIN relay socket enable the use of a timer relay, wired to be self-locking from an impulse originating from my remote starter unit, and switching on my inverter for an adjustable preset delay.

The inverter is primary used to power my microwave (who doesn't enjoy a hot meal on the job site ?) as well as a personal space heater used to remove the chill from the cabin during winter instead of remotely starting the engine.

Using a 750w Vornado personal space heater plugged into the inverter, I can successfully warm up the cabin without idling a cold engine in only 5 minutes and only depleting the secondary battery by 10%.

Most of the integrated on-board components are located right behind the driver's seat, with raceways for a cleaner installation and additional protection against falling objects and dirt.

The main objective is to optimize cargo capacity and loading/unloading, off-grid power with remote control ability, decent sound experience (also have Rockford Fostgate Punch tweeters in the front) and road-trip friendly with driver's options such as cruise control, switched AC to have full heat on defogging settings, switched head unit, more powerful horn for loud highway, etc.

Unless specified, all power wires are pure copper, no cheap aluminium or CCA conductors. All lugs are either factory soldered or crimped using professional compression crimper, and are all pure copper or pure thinned copper.

I used a rubbery mat to line the cargo area, as it's durable and cheap, plus it fall down a little in front of the inverter and sub, hiding almost everything but half the top of the battery. From the outside, the car looks complete stock, nothing's exposed. Even all my passengers don't even notice the mods till I show them (they usually ask about the rear seat first, if they even notice there's no back seat).

If you have questions, I'll be pleased to share what I've learned trough all the work I've done on my car.
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Old 12-13-2016, 01:21 AM   #4
Bluevitz-rs
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Wow nice job!
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Old 12-13-2016, 09:24 PM   #5
David C
 
Drives: White '07 3dr LB
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Montreal
Posts: 323
Thanks.


Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk
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