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Old 02-09-2014, 02:34 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by Rednaz View Post
Will the 1zz throttles work on the 2NZ 1300 engines as well?
I don't think that 1ZZ would offer any other benefit except that your accelerator would more sensitive to input. Remember it is just a valve that lets air into the engine. When I dyno tested mine on a 1.5, while it did make some gains at the top end and some slight improvement on the way up, at low rpms there was no difference except that because it was larger it let more air in quicker. So the throttle is more responsive. That's the main improvement.

Can you post a pic of your intake? Also is your throttle body electronically actuated, or is it cable operated? We might be able to determine if it would work.

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Old 02-09-2014, 02:43 PM   #38
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So the throttle is more responsive. That's the main improvement.
Just as easily replicated with a throttle controller then!
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Old 02-09-2014, 09:14 PM   #39
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I gotta check out what there rules are
Yea man. Since you are modding just for fun and not for a specific class, just have fun with your car. Stick to SMF. Its fun when you are kicking the B swapped civics and turbo Integra's. If you got any questions on mods you are about to buy and curious about class, feel free to PM me. I am taking the chairman spot this year at our region so I gotta be on top of these kinda things
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Old 02-09-2014, 11:30 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by yariseggvvti View Post
How's the sounds like when you run 2.5" exhaust? Did you delete resonator and second CAT? Do you lose any lower end and getting more high end. VVTI kicks harder?

Thanks!
It sounds pretty awesome man, I'll post a couple of videos when I get the chance.
Yes, resonator and secondary cat are gone.
Below 3 grand, you would think it was a much bigger engine, above that it kinda sounds like a 240sx, really mean sounding.
I think a turbo or supercharger would really help, this is a FI exhaust on a NA car. Right now it doesn't pull as hard as I think it's capable of, it's only making about 100 whp.
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Old 02-10-2014, 04:06 AM   #41
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dose it sounds really deep or ricy? If you have time, post a video please. thank you!
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Old 02-12-2014, 10:30 AM   #42
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Yeah, that is why I am focusing on the handling. Years ago, the old roundish jaguar XKE back in the early 60's got beat bad due to lack of power. The next year, they came out with better braking and beat em all in the turns. The handling and braking would have to be our edge. I put a bunch of bars on for stability, and it is rail like, even with the T rated tires, which I will swap them when worn to V rated Michelins (195/60/15). But, I am thinking of going to add even more bars from Ultra racing, the ones I don't have yet, 3 point fender brace, rear torsion bar, side lower and room bars. Good luck racing this year.
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Old 02-12-2014, 11:22 AM   #43
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Tires, get some better tires.. You wanna ride on rails with a yaris, go wider, 195 are a bit skinny and the Michelins last longer but they just dont grip like the Falken 615k, Toyo R1R, Hankook RS3's..
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Old 02-12-2014, 03:08 PM   #44
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I thought the magic number for R1R's was 195/50R15, no? Aside from that, go as wide as your fenders allow.
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Old 02-12-2014, 05:28 PM   #45
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If you wanna ride on rails, get thw Hoosier A6 in 275.

Everything you said is correct cranky
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Old 02-12-2014, 07:42 PM   #46
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I was looking at those wheels just now, not bad on the prices (IMO atleast)

I'm hoping to get some nice and sticky tires down the line but for now I need to get some new and lighter wheels and some decent tires to put em on. One pair for street use and the other for track buisness.

Btw guys thank you for helping us guys out with all the knowledge, glad to be part of this.
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Old 07-19-2014, 11:57 AM   #47
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:D

sorry for reviving this old thread

and thousand sorries in advance ... as i will be prompting and asking anything which i cud not understand you all guys at YW im new to YW and just bought a 2008 yaris 1.5L manual tranny ... and now a days just spending my spare time on YW forums and google ... reading and understanding NA mods ... i am trying my level best to get as much as i can .. but still .. im a newbie ... so had to ask questions ..sorry if i sound stupid

my question is ... here the swap is in between electronic TB's ? the ones which are DBW ?
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Old 11-11-2014, 08:47 PM   #48
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Its for the electronic tbs.... for the cables, if not mistaken, it also a direct swap...
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Old 12-17-2014, 09:07 PM   #49
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All, tb swap is kicking my butt. I've tried everything...chip swap, dial in good idle while warm after battery cycle, but i still get P0505 idle control system code. It also jerks sometimes letting on and off the throttle. Does anyone think i should adjust other stop screw inside the tb? This looks like it sets how far back the valve can close. It looks like the ecu can actually fully shut the valve the way it's set now. Does the ecu actually do this? Any suggestions? Preeshiate it. Car runs great under this mod when it's cooperating, but flakes into this code.

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Old 12-18-2014, 12:13 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattymo View Post
All, tb swap is kicking my butt. I've tried everything...chip swap, dial in good idle while warm after battery cycle, but i still get P0505 idle control system code. It also jerks sometimes letting on and off the throttle. Does anyone think i should adjust other stop screw inside the tb? This looks like it sets how far back the valve can close. It looks like the ecu can actually fully shut the valve the way it's set now. Does the ecu actually do this? Any suggestions? Preeshiate it. Car runs great under this mod when it's cooperating, but flakes into this code.

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The symptoms you're describing are exactly what I experienced before turning out the tiny factory epoxied external hex head screw to allow the butterfly to come to rest at a more closed position. That one adjustment solved everything.

Check that the butterfly isn't hanging up on anything under the throttle body. That could also prevent the butterfly from closing.

Check and recheck everything for any air leaks. They can play havoc with the idle. And make certain that all of the vacuum hoses to your intake manifold are going to the original factory locations.

What kind of intake and filter are you running? Check for any air leakage around the MAF, as well as the electrical connection at the plug, as it determines your A/F at idle.

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Old 12-18-2014, 11:00 PM   #51
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I've adjusted the epoxy screw to get good idle, but crazy georgia weather swings may be confusing the learn. I have an aem intake. My vacuum and af ratios look ok in torque. I do seem to get more trouble with atmospheric pressure changes too.

After you solved everything, did u scan the ecm? Sometimes this code wont actually trigger the check engine light. Thanks.

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Old 12-24-2014, 12:43 AM   #52
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Yes... and the scanner showed no pending codes.


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Old 12-24-2014, 10:34 AM   #53
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Greg, what warm idle rpm did u settle to? Thanks again.

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Old 01-12-2015, 07:02 PM   #54
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I put a 1zz throttle body on my yaris this fall, after adjusting the idle and resetting the ecu its has worked great. it does idle higher than with the original tb and it doesn't like very cold weather. -30/-35 it throws a lean code and I had the throttle plate get stuck, but other than that it has been good and there was a noticeable increase above 3500rpm, although I don't know how much is the throttle body and how much is the tooter I put on at the same time.
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