06YarisRS's 2ZR-FE Swap 5-Door Hatchback (Automatic Transmission)

[tmontague]

You can probably unplug some connectors and pull it of the way. I don't have fogs so I never had that issue. That said if you decide to leave the harness in place be super careful with the engine as it won't take much to rip the connectors out

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by tmontague

You can probably unplug some connectors and pull it of the way. I don't have fogs so I never had that issue. That said if you decide to leave the harness in place be super careful with the engine as it won't take much to rip the connectors out

Yes, I think I found the end and it is at the oil pressure sensor... I think. So tomorrow, I will get that all out of the way.

I removed the wiper tray and only broke one bolt doing it. It's one of the middle ones and nothing to do with the wiper motor assembly, so I will probably drill it out and use a self-tapping screw. The only other bolt that broke was on one of driver's side engine cover up at the top. Same fix there, I guess. Glad I removed the wiper tray as well as you can't disconnect the ecu plug without moving it out of the way. That little securing arm bumps into the wiper tray and won't open all the way.

Taking the hood off was anxiety-ridden as I had to sort of balance it with one hand and take the last bolt out with the other. I so don't want to injure my new paint job LOL.

I got the fuel lines off fortunately and the system had lost pressure after several days of not running and the battery being disconnected.

Well, I now have tons or room to work. I can say though that I'll probably be bugging you guys with a few questions pertaining to hooking all the hoses back up. It may take a little longer but rather than bag up all the bolts/hardware, I'm just putting the bolts back into their holes. That way hopefully I won't lose any.

I'm adjusting my plan and I think I'll remove the intake and exhaust manifolds for a couple reasons: 1) Easier access to the bell housing bolts around the intake and throttlebody and more clearance with the exhaust manifold removed.

How the HE double hockey sticks, did you do this job in two days in your driveway??? Everytime I look at the mess of spaghetti in that engine bay, I'm sure my stress level elevates a bit. I really hope I can get this back together and that says nothing about troubleshooting potential problems after the swap - a.k.a. a no run situation.

Here is the current state...

[tmontague]

Good progress so far!

What helped the most in being able to take the swap in a weekend was spending hours and months reading through the other swap threads. I then visually went through all the steps I needed to complete and if any infi wasnt clear I made sure to find the answer. I placed all the parts and harnesses out previously and visualized how it would all connect on the engine. I then connected it before the install.

And of course what really helped was the fact that if I didn't have it done in 5 days then I was screwed as I had to get back to work and class so there was a lot of pressure which i wouldn't recommend.

Dont get too over whelmed by the mess, once the engine is back in place just look at following the hoses one by one and figuring out what hose is what and where it needs to connect. Taking pictures helps a lot too

[ArmstrongRacing]

Yeah, I’m still impressed too. With how so many great, knowledgeable guys we have spread across the world, NO ONE will have to take their car to a shop. We have the manuals, you can buy techstream, so all anyone needs is a/c and alignment.

[tmontague]

^was cheaper for me to buy cheap ebay manifold gauges and vacuum pump then to have an a/c guy do it for me. I've already used the gauges a bunch and topped up my 12 year old family cars. Well worth it to have those lying around

[ArmstrongRacing]

That’s awesome.....

Make a diy yet? ;-P

[tmontague]

There's more than enough great videos on YT explaining the whole process- ChriFix has probably one of the best. Since it's there is nothing specific for the Yaris I haven't bothered

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by tmontague

There's more than enough great videos on YT explaining the whole process- ChriFix has probably one of the best. Since it's there is nothing specific for the Yaris I haven't bothered

YES! I watched that ChrisFix video after having the guy come down and discharge my system. I may yet buy the manifold gauges and pump which can be had for ~$90.00 on eBay. If I do this, I'll just go pay the guy for his time discharging my system.

The plan is to get started on the swap tomorrw morning. Will post progress shots.

Check out my new goodies that just arrived today!

New muffler. Should look dope, with those two 3" pipes sticking slightly out the back. Hopefully not too big looking.





Gonna need one heck of an adapter.



New OEM mount. So much more substantial than the other POS I had.

[tmontague]

Fyi - r134 refrigerant is illegal to buy in Canada w/ out a license but south of the border you're good to go. I stock up on some cans of Dupont r134 when ever I head over to pick up some car stuff

Oh, and save yourself future a/c system hassles, install an ounce of refrigerant dye to your system when you recharge it. A black light will make a leak easily detectable in the future

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by tmontague

Fyi - r134 refrigerant is illegal to buy in Canada w/ out a license but south of the border you're good to go. I stock up on some cans of Dupont r134 when ever I head over to pick up some car stuff

Oh, and save yourself future a/c system hassles, install an ounce of refrigerant dye to your system when you recharge it. A black light will make a leak easily detectable in the future

Ah, I see. So obviously you recommend R134 over the 'Canadian' equivalent? Why so? Thanks for the recommendation on the dye. I also have to get PAG46 (3.5 oz). Some of it comes with the dye in it I believe.

Thanks!

[tmontague]

The canadian stuff sold at CT is propane based and explosive, also technically not what is in cars from factory. Use the proper factory stuff if you have the means it is what the compressor and the whole system uses in all NA cars. The CT stuff came out as a way for shade tree mechanics to "fix" a/c systems

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by tmontague

The canadian stuff sold at CT is propane based and explosive, also technically not what is in cars from factory. Use the proper factory stuff if you have the means it is what the compressor and the whole system uses in all NA cars. The CT stuff came out as a way for shade tree mechanics to "fix" a/c systems

Done! I will pick up some R134A when I'm across the border - probably early next week.

I read an article on recharging the system and it said if the stsyem has been evacuated, to add oil to the compressor, plus some for the lines, plus a bit more for the dryer. Would 6 oz be acceptable? Not sure how sensitive the system would be to over-filling with oil. Do you recall how much you put in?

[tmontague]

Ouch 6oz seems like way too much. I've read different things but my understanding is that most of the oil sits in the compressor so you dont need to add any if the compressor stays.

My new reman'd compressor had oil in it when it was shipped. I never added any oil, just dye and r134. Haven't had an issue since

[06YarisRS]

Engine Out! Will post up progress pics later.

[tmontague]

Nice!

[ArmstrongRacing]

I would check the compressor you bought, if it has oil in it you’re fine. You only need to consider what’s in the lines if you replace them too, add the dye and verify the new compressor has oil.

Great work so far!

[06YarisRS]

Engine In...But, Not Without Issues...

Despite many maneuverings of the engine and transmission, we could not get the engine in without removing the pegs in the transmission. That of course caused alignment problems with the bellhousing and I am now struggling to get everything lined back up. Trevor, you now have exclusive rights to say, "I told you so" . I probably should have removed the trans and bolted it up out of the car. I have 4 bolts on the bottom 2/3 inserted and the bellhousing is completely flush with the engine. It feels like one bolt has started to cross thread and one other I can't get started at all. Open to advice. I'm keeping everything loose for now and will continue to try tweaking the engine and trans to get those bolts in.

EDIT - Got the bell housing bolts in with some finagling. There wasn't a cross tread, but more likely the bolt just dragging on the side of the housing. The bolt I couldn't get started actually didn't belong in the hole I was trying to thread it into. Thank god for the pics I'd taken before!

After a short break, I'm going out to put the torque converter bolts back in. Have to check the torque spec on those now.

Anyway, here is a pick of the engine in the car.

[ArmstrongRacing]

The alignment is a bit tricky for sure. But you definitely shouldn’t remove the alignment pins. I remember having to fight with it for a while and I had a second hand to help.

Take a step back and see where the flanges are not exactly flush, try to correct that and line up the bolt holes