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Old 12-29-2014, 08:44 PM   #1
cregirl90
 
Drives: 2009 Toyota Yaris Sedan
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Unhappy My Wally stranded me :( '09 Yaris sedan auto

Hey ya'll!

My name is Courtney and I have an '09 Yaris who has really been the most reliable car I have yet to own! Bought it brand new off the lot with 30 miles on it and just finished paying it off this past June (woo hoo!!). I have NEVER had any problems with it since I am ever so grateful to have a gearhead as a fiance ;) He's VERY particular about maintaining his/our vehicles. Including plugs, transmission fluid (twice), PCV valve, and has changed the oil every 3,000 miles. Until today, it was just not enough. As I was turning into my gym parking lot, suddenly the steering wheel light, BRAKE light, airbag light, AND ABS light popped on along with my power steering completely out. As I struggled to strenuously turn into a parking lot, I put the car into park to call my fiance and when I cranked the car back on, I was unable to put the car into reverse, neutral, and/or drive. The turn signals wouldn't work along with the power windows, head unit, and AC/heat. I am at a complete lost. It starts right up, but can't put it into gear, lost the use of some electronic features, and can't steer for shit. Can someone please help?!?!? I just want my Wally to work again :(

Last edited by cregirl90; 12-29-2014 at 08:46 PM. Reason: error
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Old 12-29-2014, 08:50 PM   #2
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Check the 10A GAUGE fuse and 10A ECU-IG fuse in the fuse panel that is under the bottom of the dash and the 7.5A ACC2 fuse that is mounted in a small fuse holder on the top left side of the under dash fuse panel (behind the storage cup).

If none of those is popped, check the two fusible links, which are built into the plastic block on the positive battery terminal.
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Old 12-29-2014, 10:06 PM   #3
cregirl90
 
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thank you so much for your quick response. My man checked the one on the positive battery terminal but did not pull those fuses in the fuse box. Ill post my results tomorrow when he gets off work. Thanks!
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Old 12-29-2014, 10:40 PM   #4
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I'm curious, is every warning light on the dash on?

Your symptoms are similar (not exactly the same) to a problem I had with mine many years ago.

Yaris Died

Anyway, it was a bad ignition switch
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Last edited by Ranger SVO; 12-29-2014 at 10:55 PM.
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Old 12-30-2014, 07:46 AM   #5
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If a fuse isn't to blame, the ignition switch would be the next place to look.
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Old 12-31-2014, 05:47 AM   #6
bairjo
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by cregirl90 View Post

I just want my Wally to work again :(


I have that problem sometimes. It's emabarrassing when it happens...oh, wait, nevermind. I was thinkng of something else.
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Old 01-03-2015, 03:10 PM   #7
cregirl90
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
Check the 10A GAUGE fuse and 10A ECU-IG fuse in the fuse panel that is under the bottom of the dash and the 7.5A ACC2 fuse that is mounted in a small fuse holder on the top left side of the under dash fuse panel (behind the storage cup).

If none of those is popped, check the two fusible links, which are built into the plastic block on the positive battery terminal.
Are both of the 10a fuses you talk about on the same panel that the 7.5 is? I checked the 7.5 and saw no seperation. Thank you so much for your help hopefully I can fix this today!!
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Old 01-03-2015, 03:19 PM   #8
cregirl90
 
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All fuses named to check were all A ok. Terminal fuses . I'm at a loss and feel I will have to bring to a shop :(
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Old 01-03-2015, 05:58 PM   #9
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Just to verify:

The two fuses on the positive batter terminal were checked?

The 10A GAUGE and 7.5A ECU-IG fuse in the under the bottom of the dash fuse panel were checked?

The 7.5A ACC2 fuse in the two fuse, beige fuse holder assembly on the top left of the under-dash fuse panel was checked?

If all of those were checked, another thing to check is for corrosion on either or both of the battery posts.

Finally, if the fiance has access to a multimeter, I can give you some points for him to check on the ignition switch connector.
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Old 01-04-2015, 12:45 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
Just to verify:

The two fuses on the positive batter terminal were checked?

The 10A GAUGE and 7.5A ECU-IG fuse in the under the bottom of the dash fuse panel were checked?

The 7.5A ACC2 fuse in the two fuse, beige fuse holder assembly on the top left of the under-dash fuse panel was checked?

If all of those were checked, another thing to check is for corrosion on either or both of the battery posts.

Finally, if the fiance has access to a multimeter, I can give you some points for him to check on the ignition switch connector.
This is the fiancée speaking. Thanks so much for your help man! I've checked and pulled all fuses you have no and saw no seperation on any or blackness ect. What your normally see in a blown fuse ya know? I have a volt meter I can check the ifnition switch. Is this something I can replace?? Thanks again!!!
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Old 01-04-2015, 12:46 PM   #11
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Have stated*
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Old 01-04-2015, 12:47 PM   #12
cregirl90
 
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Battery is new terminals are perfect. All fuses checked. The ones you've stated alteast.
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Old 01-04-2015, 01:38 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cregirl90 View Post
This is the fiancée speaking. Thanks so much for your help man! I've checked and pulled all fuses you have no and saw no seperation on any or blackness ect. What your normally see in a blown fuse ya know? I have a volt meter I can check the ifnition switch. Is this something I can replace?? Thanks again!!!
Hello fiancée,

If you remove the lower steering column cover (two screws behind the steering wheel, which are visible when it is rotated slightly and a third by the tilt wheel lever) you can access the ignition switch connector.

On it, check the following:

Yellow and Grey wires should have 12V with ignition off

White should have 12V with ACC on

Green and Pink should have 12V with IG in ON position

Black should have 12V while cranking the starter
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