1NZ-FE tuned by Phoenix-r

[sujonol78]

Hi there, I guess some of you had read some of my comment in the thread, and yes you can call me the crazy guy from Indonesia. So in this time I just want to share how we do things in Indonesia, specifically for our beloved 1NZ-FE engine. What we did ( my tuner and me ) is not the SOP for other tuners ( in Indonesia ), nor the only right way, some of them are also doing an even better way of tuning, or the other way around. One thing we should all remember, same car same model same engine even same manufacturing time or person is definitely has different characteristic, means that you cannot 100% copy others tuning to your own car, you can do the same style but definitely requires different fine tuning. I also apologize for using a little bit rude words to describe my feeling.

So this is what I did and will do for my 1NZ-FE ( historically ):
1. My 1NZ-FE is 2005 M/T model, I started to modify it when I start using it in the end of 2007. Previously my father used it, with very minimum maintenance and low grade gasoline. So my mileage starts at 55000km. I started to change the gasoline to the best we have in Indonesia, unfortunately at that time we only have Shell, so I used the Shell’s 95octane gasoline. Currently I’m using “Total” 95 octane gasoline.
2. I changed the engine oil and the transmission oil with a better quality oil, currently I am using Motul 5W-30 oil, and the most important thing is the transmission oil you should use the GL-5 type oil ( OEM factory recommendation, in Indonesia, is GL-3 ). You should feel the difference by now. If you are using auto tranny, I suggest you use a higher grade oil. Motul oil 5w-30 costs USD 10,- / liter
3. The next important modification is using auxiliary intake system ( intake induction system ), it is not turbo or supercharger, but think of it like a coronary by-pass, so it supplies extra fresh air for the engine. Just unplug the vacuum hose that is connected to the throttle body, use a T connector and hose, to make an extension line, then use a couple of valves ( 1 way valve ) and put a filter on the tip. You can experiment with the valves quantity and size, also the hose length until you get the right one. I trust my butt dyno for this, it really improves your acceleration and decrease the engine load. It is completely harmless ( as long as you put a filter on it ) to the engine, because the engine just take the air as much as it needs it ( unlike forced induction or supercharger ). At that time I still used my OEM standard air filter box and the air filter. When you experiment with the auxiliary intake, too much is not good, too little is also not good. There is no specific standard for the size or quantity, it is depend on your car’s characteristic and tuning. It costs no more than USD 40,- per system ( free valve and filter replacement if you are a regular customer ). FYI even if you had installed a forced induction system, this auxiliary intake induction system can also be used ( before and after the forced induction ), your butt dyno is sufficient to tell the different. Picture below.

4. Throttle Body polishing
my tuner do it for FREE ( if you are a regular customer ) and it only takes no more than 30 minutes to polish it, USD 40,- ??? 3 hours??
if you are going NA or still using it for daily transport, I strongly suggest that you don’t polish the whole surface and shiny, because it will affect your fuel consumption and power loss, for NA ( or light modification ) you should make it a slope, just polish it a on the entrance but not too much on the throttle flap area, that way you can get some air pressure and air flow. If you’re going for the forced induction, you can polish the whole surface, because you get the air flow and pressure from the forced induction. For my car, I’m doing NA, and again my butt dyno knows the difference. Picture below

5. Replace the OEM air filter
I replace it with JFC sport air filter, and I took out the intake tube.
by this time your low – mid power band should improved a lot, please excuse me for always using my butt dyno for comparison. JFC sport filter = USD 35,- Picture below

6. Spark plugs
for daily usage, I use Champion spark plugs ( not racing type ), with a little cold characteristic. At this stage I could reach 195 km/hr ( yes, the higher power band still too slow ). Spark plugs ( 4 pcs ) = +/- USD 1 or 2,- ( I got it for free )

7. Ground wiring
I am using custom ground wiring for the engine and battery ( = +/- USD10 – 15,- per set ), again I got it for free.

up to this stage, it is considered as a basic performance standard for my tuner’s shop. You will definitely feel the difference for no more than USD 150,- trust me, I’m not BS-ing.


8. Clutch set
I happened to go to Japan 1 year ago, so ( after consulting with my tuner ) I decided to buy TRD clutch plate and cover. I don’t need to tell you how TRD clutch, or other aftermarket clutch feels, the good thing about TRD clutch is that the clutch pedal is not becoming harder / heavier when you step on it. And no, it doesn’t make any noise. TRD clutch set = USD 500,-

9. Tires
I replaced the OEM tire with Yokohama C-Drive ( asymmetric type ) = USD 80,- per piece. With OEM standard spec and rims ( 185 / 55 / R15 )

10. APEXI Neo
around March of 2009, I installed APEXI Neo for the AFR. Don’t worry, it fits almost any Japanese cars perfectly. If you can’t find the diagram, you can use multi-tester to find the right slot or wire. No need to waste time to debate about the compatibility of A/T or M/T, or which year or model. APEXI Neo + dyno = USD 350,- + USD 70,-

up to this point I got 132,4 HP and max torque 173 Nm. With the total cost of no more than USD 1000,-

you can experiment with various setting for the AFR but please consult with a good tuner who understand about it.

11. Carbon Clean
carbon clean your engine once in a while, you will know the difference. Don’t use the spray type!

12. CamCon for VVTI
installing camcon is a must! I combine it with Apexi Neo ( check out my pics in the member page ). Again I use my butt dyno to feel and know the difference. Please don’t argue or complain about the wiring diagram, it is quite easy to install, just use the multi tester if you can’t find the diagram. Please remember to ask an experienced tuner how to set a suitable parameter for your car, and remember each car has different characteristic. Too much is not good, too little is also not sufficient. In the same time I also added another grounding for the ECU. Camcon price = USD325,-


13. Suspension
I changed my front shock absorber with stiffer one, I use “Monroe” shock absorber. For the rear absorber with “Tokico” shock absorber ( gas type ) and of course stiffer. I am keeping the OEM springs for driving comfort. Monroe shock absorber = USD 100,- Tokico shock absorber = USD 80,-

14. Custom exhaust manifold & Muffler
custom muffler and piping and exhaust manifold. Since I’m running NA and for daily usage, I just add about 3 – 5 mm from the OEM size for the piping and exhaust manifold, and I took out the catalytic converter. Total cost = USD 200,-

Congratulation, now you can experiment with various settings and maximize the performance of your 1NZ-FE with the cost no more than USD 1700,-.

15. Additional auxiliary intake system
I add additional auxiliary intake system on the intake manifold. I punched 2 holes and connected another set of auxiliary intake system. This is quite extreme for daily use, since I have Apexi Neo and Camcon working in the same time, my tuner can adjust the appropriate settings. Picture below

16. Pistons
I use oversize CP Pistons ( 75.5 ), still work in progress

17. Balancing
10,000 RPM balancing for the crank shaft and flywheel, still work in progress

18. Valve clearance
Re-calculate and re-set the valve clearance, still work in progress

I will post the dyno later, but I still trust my butt dyno ;)
I couldn’t have done this without the help of my tuner ( and also my friend ). So if you should ask which tuner I am using, then the answer is Mr. Andreas from the “Phoenix-r”

link for pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/sujonol7...eat=directlink

[d1nzfe]

132hp on flywheel? whats the tcf?

[Parmas]

I have some questions on this:

- Do you plan forced induction on this engine?
- The pistons are certainly lower compression... how much?
- I do not understand why upgrading the pistons and keeping stock rods?
- Can you tell more about the "auxiliary intake induction system" ?
- What will be the car used for ? Daily use or racing ?

[ROCKLAND TOYOTA]

i have a few questions but am waiting on a few more responses.

[Parmas]

Reviding the pictures I could answer my own questions....

The engine can't be used with forced induction because of the ""auxiliary intake induction system" since boosted air will be forced out instead. Saying this...... so why using lower compression pistons on an N\A engine cause you will only loose power that way. If you want to change pistons it would be better to plan for slightly higher compression ones keeping in mind good valve clearance.

Also ... what about fuel injectors? Are they still stock?

[cali yaris]

up to this point I got 132,4 HP

so far in your description you have: an aux. intake, throttle body polish, and an Apexi Neo as your engine modifications.

Where does the number 132.4 (a very specific number) come from at that point?

Then, after that, you describe a mild exhaust, a camcon and "more" aux. intake mods.

I think I'll watch this one...

[marcus]

wheres the pictures..

[Parmas]

Originally Posted by marcus

wheres the pictures..

http://picasaweb.google.com/sujonol7...eat=directlink

[06silveryaris]

link is empty

[Schizoprenia]

hello,
im from indo too...

i'm a little confused here... your target is actually say 132bhp, i dont think that you have to go to all the trouble and because for my yaris, i had what i describe as less extreme mod, with slightly more if not similar bhp:
modifications are:
-TRD Headers
-centre pipe custom- crush bent(i know i should get mandrel, but in indo, i didnt know of any shop that can do mandrel bending)
-unversal muffler 1.5l-1.8l class tanabe super medallion racing
-dastek unichip C-type
-lighten flywheel and balance
-JFC replacement filter(oiled)

as you can see, i have no port and polish involved, no throttle body works, and definitely not touching the cams, rods or anything serious... this i have 138bhp///90RON octane, 'PREMIUM' (that's what we call that gas grade in indonesia) with the dastek dynamometer dyno... judging from your spec, i suppose more bhp should be achieved...

[sujonol78]

Originally Posted by Parmas

I have some questions on this:

- Do you plan forced induction on this engine?
- The pistons are certainly lower compression... how much?
- I do not understand why upgrading the pistons and keeping stock rods?
- Can you tell more about the "auxiliary intake induction system" ?
- What will be the car used for ? Daily use or racing ?

i don't have any plans for forced induction.

according to CP it is about 9:1 but i think it should be higher than that.

the reason i'm keeping with stock rods is because I don't want to sacrifice the lower end power band, if I were to change the rods, i would've used the titanium rods. I'm still using my car for daily transport, and occasionaly drag racing.

auxiliary intake induction system, just think of it as an air by-pass, you by-pass the air filter box and your engine gets additional fresh air. there are some time needed for the air to travel through the intake tube, then to the air filter box, then pass through the air filter and goes to another tube before arriving in the throttle body. the auxiliary intake induction travels faster than the intake system ( the engine will get the air needed before the original air from the intake arrives ) so you will get a good response in the lower end. the valve in the auxiliary intake induction reacts to the suction power of the engine ( you can adjust the stiffness of the spring, so you can manage when the valve should opens ). this way the engine will get extra fresh air along the way.

[sujonol78]

Originally Posted by Parmas

Reviding the pictures I could answer my own questions....

The engine can't be used with forced induction because of the ""auxiliary intake induction system" since boosted air will be forced out instead. Saying this...... so why using lower compression pistons on an N\A engine cause you will only loose power that way. If you want to change pistons it would be better to plan for slightly higher compression ones keeping in mind good valve clearance.

Also ... what about fuel injectors? Are they still stock?

yes the engine can still use forced induction, because the there are 1 way valves in the auxiliary intake induction system ( the forced air can not escape through the valves ). My tuner do many forced induction cars with the auxiliary induction system.

i don't think the piston is that low compression, i will re-check again.

the fuel injectors are still stock but i clean it periodically.

[sujonol78]

the dyno was on the engine.

[sujonol78]

we can not judge a piston by just its' appearance, there are other influencing factors too. for the piston that i use, it is not as low as it seems, but also not as high as you might think. it depends on the other supporting factors and tuning. the end results for my piston is slightly touching the high compression area.

[sujonol78]

Originally Posted by Schizoprenia

hello,
im from indo too...

i'm a little confused here... your target is actually say 132bhp, i dont think that you have to go to all the trouble and because for my yaris, i had what i describe as less extreme mod, with slightly more if not similar bhp:
modifications are:
-TRD Headers
-centre pipe custom- crush bent(i know i should get mandrel, but in indo, i didnt know of any shop that can do mandrel bending)
-unversal muffler 1.5l-1.8l class tanabe super medallion racing
-dastek unichip C-type
-lighten flywheel and balance
-JFC replacement filter(oiled)

as you can see, i have no port and polish involved, no throttle body works, and definitely not touching the cams, rods or anything serious... this i have 138bhp///90RON octane, 'PREMIUM' (that's what we call that gas grade in indonesia) with the dastek dynamometer dyno... judging from your spec, i suppose more bhp should be achieved...

132HP was on Apexi, TRD clutch ( original ), auxiliary intake, JFC filter, and custom muffler only.

judging from your spec i am definitely sure you could achieve more, especially if you are using original TRD headers, original Tanabe Muffler, and setting the dastek correctly.

[1.5]

132 for barely any mods? what dyno is this?

[TOUGEghost]

So it's like you gave yourself a whole bunch of vacuum leaks with all the unmetered air from the butt dyno tuned "auxiliary air intake" system, although I really can't see much air actually getting through all those tiny little tubes, filters, and valves anyway.

Originally Posted by sujonol78

132HP was on Apexi, TRD clutch ( original ), auxiliary intake, JFC filter, and custom muffler only.

You're claiming you got about 23hp from an AFC, air filter, and a muffler?

[sujonol78]

Originally Posted by 1.5

132 for barely any mods? what dyno is this?

it is called getting the most of your engine by TUNING