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Old 05-03-2010, 10:32 PM   #55
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Audio is under Construction Kenwood KDC-X794
Hifonics Zeus ZXI6.5C 6.5-Inch 2-Way Component Speaker System - AUTOTEK ATX65CX 6.5-Inch
Hifonics BXi 1210D - Crunch PowerZone P1400.4
(2)12 inch Kicker CVR's - 0 gauge from battery to Distribution block - 4 Gauge Power/Grounds to amps - Duralast Yellow Top - Big 3
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Old 05-04-2010, 09:55 AM   #56
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I have a question that comes to my mind because of my lack of knowledge...

You are going to have two 15" subs in the trunk, two 8" (mid-base) on the kick panel, two 4" or so mids up front near the pillars with two Tweeters, right?

and 3 amps! how are you going to connect all of them, my set up for example lets me to have Woofers, Mids, and Tweeters. But when I try to add one more drive, my equation goes no where )o: and here is the question: "At what point you divide in 2 one signal? or how it's done"?

sorry it might be a very naive question, but I would like to add a couple of 4 inch speakers to my system but I don't know where this extra channel comes out and still have control.

Thanks.

D.
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Old 05-04-2010, 08:13 PM   #57
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I met up with SQcomp today (was in portland testing for a job)... Deck trime piece looks nice. He had just put some Rage gold (high quality bondo/filler) and was waiting for it to harden so he could sand it.

Fun guy to meet in person.


Derick, there is afaik, only one good way to get multiple speakers(of different kinds) to play on a single channel... and that is by using a passive crossover (which are made up of coils & caps, and sometimes resistors). You define a point, say 3000hz, and you design a passive x-over to split the signal into two signals, a high, and a low, with the cutoffs being at 3000hz. now you can run that signal to your tweet (3000 and up), and the other to your mid (3000 and down).

you could technically run both drivers off the same amp without a crossover, but then you'd run into a few problems. Lets use an example of a 100x2rms amp for mids & highs. Your tweet is 4 ohm, and so is your mid, without a crossover your amp would see a 2ohm load instead of a 4ohm load... (makes the amp work harder. Also, your tweet would receive the same frequencies, and the same amount of power as your mid... Tweeter go TWEET TWEET TWIZZEEET.... _______________ (nothing). You'd also probably get some weird cancellation issues (mainly in the upper mid to high frequencies) which could wreak havoc on your frequency response.


I can't remember off the top of my head how john is going to set up his drivers & channels... tho, I thought he said he was doing fully active... meaning he won't need to use passives at all.


For my install, I've got a custom 3-way component + 2 amps... I have an active crossover that will split the signal between the mids+highs & the Midbass (cutoff around 200hz). The tweet & mid will have a crossover, tho... since my mid is a full range, I may or may not use a low pass on the mid... the tweet will have a highpass, and that will probably be set around 5-10khz... but it really depends on if I put a lowpass on my 4's or not.
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Old 05-04-2010, 11:33 PM   #58
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OMG

Clearly we need to get a mod in here to delete some of these pictures because that looks like sex...
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Old 05-04-2010, 11:54 PM   #59
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Ahh, you have no idea how hard I just laughed at that first sentence lol.

I reeeeeeeeeeeeeally want to see this enclosure, because it's obviously going to be wicked awesome.

Just curious, where is the proposed plexi going to fit into all of this?
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Old 05-05-2010, 12:14 AM   #60
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Ugh, fine, be that way, all secretive, and sh!t...

Stop editing your post. I had to redo this one like three times because you kept adding stuff lol.

"We're thinking of painting the amp rack the same color as the grey trim of the radio console and putting a couple LEDs in there to show it off." - i'm assuming the rack, yes? you should make them blink to the beat. Nothing says rice quite like LEDs that light up with the music.

Heck if you did that, you should get the triColor LEDs, then use the red for low frequencies, green for mid, and blue for high (see how I picked the colors vs audio freqs, because red has longest wavelength, and blue is shortest? I'm clever).

Last edited by goku87; 05-05-2010 at 12:31 AM.
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Old 05-05-2010, 12:39 AM   #61
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Oh yeah, don't think I ever told you, but welcome home.
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Old 05-06-2010, 12:17 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sqcomp View Post
Last edited by sqcomp; Today at 01:16 AM. Reason: ...Because it annoys the $hit out of Goku...
Jerk lol.

Did you decide on what LEDs you wanted to get? Because I'm telling ya, that was a pretty epic idea I had...
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Old 05-07-2010, 10:20 AM   #63
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Every hertz I've heard at the local dealer here has sounded pristine. If he's cutting you a good price, then I say go for it.
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Old 05-07-2010, 11:51 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sqcomp View Post
He's selling me HARD on using a dual 4 Ohm 15" High Energy sub for the setup instead of the two ID 15"s. I've just never heard one before. Hmmm...Like I said, things chage FAST!
Since you are running sealed, the subs are more likely to hit x-max.. cause sealed boxes allow for subs to move a lot when playing down low... This means a FLAT BL curve is even more necessary than if you were running ported.

Scour the net for Dumax/Klippel tests for both subs to see if there are any BL charts for either... Manufacturers usually don't release that info, cause it will really show weaknesses if the sub has them, and the motor is usually the place to look.

I think there is a forum somewhere in which one guy has ran DUMAX on literally a hundred or so subs... I'm sure the ID has been done, in fact, I probably have an ID dumax on my computer somewhere.... i'll do some hunting over the course of the next week.
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Old 05-07-2010, 02:06 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sqcomp View Post
Derick:

Okay...my situation is fairly unique. I have massive control. The P-01 has four pre-outs, high, midrange, midbass, and subwoofer. Yes, I have three amps, a mono (subs), a two channel (midbass), and a four channel (midrange and high). The four channel has two inputs that I'll use to plug in the signal from the two pre outs for the highs and midrange. All I'm doing is using the 4 way electronic crossover that the P-01 gives me.

in your case you may look at capping your tweeter and going "quasi-active" with the amp's onboard crossover.

Oh yeah...
Sqcomp:

That is not FAIR your Head Unit it's so powerful! I'm jealous



so what does "quasi-active" means? to use the HPF on the amp?




Then I have 2 possible options, go for DEQ-9200 and have Tweeters / Mids / Sub.




or

buying something like yours and spend twice as much or more...

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Old 05-07-2010, 04:39 PM   #66
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You know there are products that do the same stuff that his deck does... maybe even better... and they are stand alone items. Audiocontrol has a gob of equipment from signal processing, Digital eq's & crossovers with memory presets so you can have different EQ settings and such. It might be a better & cheaper solution to get a bare bones deck & a stand alone signal processor than to buy a deck with all the bells and whistles built in.

http://www.audiocontrol.com/t34/Mobile-Audio.html

The digital stuff is very spendy tho... but if you start looking around car forums, or ebay you might find a good buy on used gear.
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Old 05-07-2010, 10:10 PM   #67
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Quote:
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10 months of not spending any tax free money at all really helps my situation.
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Old 05-08-2010, 12:14 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sqcomp View Post
..."maybe even better"...

It's a big maybe to hurdle.

There is a good reason why I spent twice as much on the deck.
I was talking to him, not you.
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Old 05-09-2010, 02:15 PM   #69
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Need... More... UPDATES!!!!!
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Old 05-09-2010, 04:01 PM   #70
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Old 05-09-2010, 11:27 PM   #71
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Wow... I wish I had the time and expertise to do something like this... keep it up! and don't forget to take lots of pictures.
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Old 05-09-2010, 11:52 PM   #72
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Unless it's an ML3800 I'm not going to be impressed. :P

http://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/Doc/pdf_ml3800.pdf

If you got that, I would seriously buy a plane ticket to fly down just to hear it lol.
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