AEM FIC fight for turbo!!!

[DKN-YARIS]

Originally Posted by fnkngrv

At the risk of sounding like a jerk the words "lazy" and "turbo" or "supercharger" should never be in the same conversation. That return line really needs to be a direct shot from point A to point B with no loops, etc.

ya, considering I've gotten the car to run now its time to clean up the areas I left as when I was putting in the motor getting some of the fittings and lines was a pain as no one stocked what I needed and was back ordered and my car was just sitting on the hoist.

Making a new line as we speak so hopefully that will fix the white smoke Issue.

[fnkngrv]

^ sounds good. The fittings and lines seem to be a major PITA to procure for everyone. You always end up having to order what you need for the most part no matter where you live with only a few exceptions. Do you have an oil pressure gauge? I would be curious to know what you are seeing for activity with how you are set up now.

[thatbryanguy]

One of the places I went was a general shop, the others were autozone type places. And also me with a multimeter doing situational tests on the battery.

I'm not nearly as worried about the white smoke anymore now that I know I'm not burning coolant. I'm sure it's just the turbo burning some oil. I haven't tapped the block yet to receive the oil return line and I'm using the Zage pan so I do have a low dip in the line. I'm sure it's burning oil but that will get fixed a little later. For now I'll just keep checking my oil levels.

As for the stalling it no longer only occurs when the rad. fan comes on. It does seem to be trying much harder to stay on though when I park and have it idling in neutral. My belt seems to be sticking on start up now especially when I start with the AC on. It's progressively getting worse and worse of a squeal. Could my AC pulley be sticking and putting an extra load on it when it's not on? Causing it to not be able to idle properly?

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Doesn't oil burn blue? White smoke is from water (steam). Although, when I had my problem with the bov I had a lot of white smoke from misfires, but I never understood why (I wasn't burning coolant).

Also DKN-YARIS, check your intake piping to see if it's oily first. Otherwise, you're wasting time fixing something that isn't broken.

[DKN-YARIS]

Originally Posted by thatbryanguy

One of the places I went was a general shop, the others were autozone type places. And also me with a multimeter doing situational tests on the battery.

I'm not nearly as worried about the white smoke anymore now that I know I'm not burning coolant. I'm sure it's just the turbo burning some oil. I haven't tapped the block yet to receive the oil return line and I'm using the Zage pan so I do have a low dip in the line. I'm sure it's burning oil but that will get fixed a little later. For now I'll just keep checking my oil levels.

As for the stalling it no longer only occurs when the rad. fan comes on. It does seem to be trying much harder to stay on though when I park and have it idling in neutral. My belt seems to be sticking on start up now especially when I start with the AC on. It's progressively getting worse and worse of a squeal. Could my AC pulley be sticking and putting an extra load on it when it's not on? Causing it to not be able to idle properly?

I had some belt sounds right after my install, the tension on the alternator wasn't good and I had to readjust it. Might want to try that first as I also put in a new belt seeing how my old one had some minor cracks in it. Also, when the AC is on, the RPMS will rise anyways to give it more at idle either way.

[DKN-YARIS]

Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft

Doesn't oil burn blue? White smoke is from water (steam). Although, when I had my problem with the bov I had a lot of white smoke from misfires, but I never understood why (I wasn't burning coolant).

Also DKN-YARIS, check your intake piping to see if it's oily first. Otherwise, you're wasting time fixing something that isn't broken.

Ya, I've checked my intake piping and I have a catch can with hardly any blow by.

I put in a HKS SQVV BOV from day one and i'm not getting any misfires at all.

Going to put the new return line in tomorrow and give it a try over the weekend. If I start the car and drive, nothing, no smoke everything runs normal. If I start and let it idle for say even 3-5 mins and step on the gas, lots of white smoke which could very well be the return line as Garm has pointed out.

[thatbryanguy]

So AFRs read 13.1 at idle...too rich to stay on?

[cali yaris]

^ It should run like that at least; that's not crazy rich.

[thatbryanguy]

I've got to be misfiring still or something at idle...I smell gasoline periodically throughout my drives.

[DKN-YARIS]

after a week or so of test driving with a new oil return line, white smoke issue is gone. thanks Gram!

[thatbryanguy]

So after unplugging my FIC and starting the car it immediately gave me a few dtcs. I got Maf circuit too low, and a few misfire codes. Bad Maf sensor? I may have a shop test my sensor to see if it's bad or something. Is the MAF circuit too low a hint to anything regarding my stalling out? I'm pretty sure it's misfiring all the time but it only gives me that code when I unplug the FIC and hook in the bypass. Checked my plugs and I have some pics of them. Wanted to see if anyone thought they looked anything but normal. I need to figure out this misfiring issue.

Can't upload them straight from my phone because the image size is too big I guess. I'll post a link to them when I get a chance.

[DKN-YARIS]

Originally Posted by fnkngrv

^ sounds good. The fittings and lines seem to be a major PITA to procure for everyone. You always end up having to order what you need for the most part no matter where you live with only a few exceptions. Do you have an oil pressure gauge? I would be curious to know what you are seeing for activity with how you are set up now.

no real change, my Defi gauge shows 6.0 x100kPa when engine is cold. after its all warmed out, it will drop down to about 2.0/1.5. I have a mishimoto oil cooler installed as well so when i'm at the track it helps to keep everything in tack as the temp will make its way up a little bit.

[Bluevitz-rs]

Originally Posted by thatbryanguy

So after unplugging my FIC and starting the car it immediately gave me a few dtcs. I got Maf circuit too low, and a few misfire codes. Bad Maf sensor? I may have a shop test my sensor to see if it's bad or something. Is the MAF circuit too low a hint to anything regarding my stalling out? I'm pretty sure it's misfiring all the time but it only gives me that code when I unplug the FIC and hook in the bypass. Checked my plugs and I have some pics of them. Wanted to see if anyone thought they looked anything but normal. I need to figure out this misfiring issue.

Can't upload them straight from my phone because the image size is too big I guess. I'll post a link to them when I get a chance.

Make sure your grounds are clean and tight. And check for corrosion and loose connections.

[thatbryanguy]

Good advice, I will check into that more. I went through and looked for a loose ground somewhere but couldn't find anything. I'll check again though. A guy on the AEM forums suggested I try all the different firmware versions because apparently each formware version applies better to different vehicles. I know DKN-YARIS went through all of the different firmwares so I'll refer back to that post. Another suggestion from someone because of my misfiring issue is to upgrade the coils? Has anyone had a problem with the stock ones with turbo? AEM High output inductive coils perhaps? Just think for such a basic turbo build it seems like overkill and it shouldn't be misfiring with my current setup.

Edit: ehh, just thinking about it and high output coils don't really make sense because I don't think it misfires when I bypass the FIC.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by thatbryanguy

Good advice, I will check into that more. I went through and looked for a loose ground somewhere but couldn't find anything. I'll check again though. A guy on the AEM forums suggested I try all the different firmware versions because apparently each formware version applies better to different vehicles. I know DKN-YARIS went through all of the different firmwares so I'll refer back to that post. Another suggestion from someone because of my misfiring issue is to upgrade the coils? Has anyone had a problem with the stock ones with turbo? AEM High output inductive coils perhaps? Just think for such a basic turbo build it seems like overkill and it shouldn't be misfiring with my current setup.

If anything you could have a coil that is starting to break down or a misgapped plug. Upgrading the coils would really not be necessary.

The best way to check for ground issues is with a multimeter. Put it in resistance (ohms) mode and measure between the negative battery terminal and ground points. Besides checking large metal chunks like the block, any wire that is white with a black stripe is a ground, and you should measure very close to zero ohms between it and the negative post.

[thatbryanguy]

Awesome Scott, I didn't know that about checking grounds. I guess I'll use that method to check as much as I can. As far as plug gap I re-gapped down from .032 to .029.

I'm almost positive it has something to do with the ECU fighting the FIC or something like that but I have very limited knowledge on how the FIC works and how the ECU responds. I just don't see it being an existing issue with my car since the car runs smooth and fine even at idle when the FIC is bypassed.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by thatbryanguy

Awesome Scott, I didn't know that about checking grounds. I guess I'll use that method to check as much as I can. As far as plug gap I re-gapped down from .032 to .029.

I'm almost positive it has something to do with the ECU fighting the FIC or something like that but I have very limited knowledge on how the FIC works and how the ECU responds. I just don't see it being an existing issue with my car since the car runs smooth and fine even at idle when the FIC is bypassed.

If it runs fine with the FIC bypassed, it would then point more to an issue with the FIC or the harness.

For fuel control (which would be the most likely FIC behavior to cause misfires) the FIC monitors the signals from the ECM and adjusts the injector pulse length based on the map (making the injector squirt for longer, shorter or the same amount of time as the ECM is commanding).

If you load a blank map (all zeros) and the problem still remains, then the problem is likely hardware (FIC or Harness). If the problem stops with the zeroed map, then the issue is map related.

[thatbryanguy]

The map I'm using is the Rich map in the downloads section on Microimage. I haven't modified anything on it but figured I could use that rough tune to get me around until this next weekend or so when I get it on the dyno (little bday present from the wife!) so if anyone wants to look at that map and see if something is at all not the best for it the tune may end up solving everything. But I'll try to zero things out and see its effects if any.