Toyota Yaris Forums - Ultimate Yaris Enthusiast Site
 

 


 
Go Back   Toyota Yaris Forums - Ultimate Yaris Enthusiast Site > Technical Forums > DIY / Maintenance / Service
  The Tire Rack

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 12-15-2011, 09:05 AM   #1
cutchin
 
Drives: Yaris
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Indiana
Posts: 7
Water Pump, Do it myself or pay someone?

My WP has the inevitable pink stuff spewing from it. I'm torn between paying a shop $175 to change it (labor only) or doing it myself for $75 (paying a young mechanic to help me do it in my garage). What would you recommend? I've changed waterpumps before, but not on a car this new. I've got all the tools and have worked on cars when I was young(er). I'm tempted to do it myself as much for the fun of it as for the savings. Here are my concerns:
Do I really have to lower the engine (loosen a motor mount) to get the old pump out?
Do I need to worry about air pockets in the cooling system when I refill it?

What's your opinion? and are there other things I should be concerned about. I'll probably by the OEM WP online.

That's my story. Thanks for suggestions in advance.

Last edited by cutchin; 12-15-2011 at 09:07 AM. Reason: turn on "email notification"
cutchin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-15-2011, 09:27 AM   #2
A-Dingo-Ate-My-Baby
Banned
 
Drives: yaris
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: earth
Posts: 364
honestly ?

if you have changed water pumps before, why are you asking these questions ?

based on : you say you did it before
and yet: you are asking basic questions

I think you should put the tools down and have a professional ASE mechanic do it
A-Dingo-Ate-My-Baby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-15-2011, 09:34 AM   #3
Klink10
 
Klink10's Avatar
 
Drives: 2007 Yaris Liftback
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: 910
Posts: 1,229
^^^^Ditto if it applies.

correct tools are a must and several variations of the same tool was required for me. In other words a good tool selection made it a whole lot easier.

engine lower....... no
bubbles.......... yes (re-fill slowly and burb several times)
Klink10 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-15-2011, 10:02 AM   #4
Captain Slow
My Face Is Ridiculous
 
Captain Slow's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 Toyota Yaris 3dr LB
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Scott, LA
Posts: 456
i have not done this on a yaris yet, but if I can do it on the last few cars I've had (325i, Mustang GT, and Lancer Ralliart) I'm fairly confident that this should be an extremely easy job.

anybody have a link to a DIY for the benefit of the OP?
Captain Slow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-15-2011, 10:04 AM   #5
cutchin
 
Drives: Yaris
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Indiana
Posts: 7
Thanks for the replies so far. I should mention that I have reviewed an excellent thread on this forum (with pictures) about changing the water pump. That's what make me somewhat confident.
cutchin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-16-2011, 06:10 AM   #6
bronsin
 
bronsin's Avatar
 
Drives: 2009 Base Hatch 2 Dr Auto
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: nj
Posts: 4,790
DIY all the way.

Not a doubt in my mind.

The air bubble stuff is not a problem. Just fill and run and cool and check until its full.
bronsin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-16-2011, 08:57 AM   #7
barryware
 
Drives: 2007 Yaris Liftback
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Chicago
Posts: 129
I replaced my pump twice in the last three weeks because the new pump (new, not a rebuild) was leaking around the shaft. There is one bolt that is difficult to get any "turn" on.
Removing the alternator makes it easier to access. Make sure you get a good gasket with the pump. My 1st pump came with basically a piece of paper for the gasket.

The 3 bolts that hold the pulley to the shaft are 10mm. You need a wrench (not a socket) to remove these bolts as well as having to lock the pulley. I used a large screwdriver through one of the holes in the pulley.

There are 3 bolts and two nuts that hold on the water pump. These are also 10mm. You will need a combination of wrench and socket to get these off.

The top bolt on the alternator is 12mm. The bottom bolt on the alternator is 14mm. A wrench works fine for both. To get to lower bolt out all the way so you can remove the alternator, you need to remove one 10mm bolt that holds an AC line in place. Remove the bolt, and wiggle the bracket up the ac line (toward the front of the car) a couple of inches so it is not in the way of removing the lower alternator bolt. It is a long bolt.

The last pump, was the third pump I have installed on the car.. 1st pump was at about 38k miles. The second was at 73k, and the third was the next weekend after the 2nd pump.

Start to finish, about 3 hours but there was a lot of coffee sipping.

Even though you drained the radiator, when you remove the pump, there will be a substantial amount of coolant that comes out. Put some cardboard on the floor with some kind of catch pan. I used a plastic 1lb coffee container. Besides what made it to the floor (cardboard), I caught 6 ~ 8 oz of fluid in the container.

Good luck.. It is not difficult. Well.. it is not like hauling rocks in a wheel barrel for three hours but it is kind of a pain.
barryware is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-16-2011, 04:08 PM   #8
cutchin
 
Drives: Yaris
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Indiana
Posts: 7
Thanks Barryware

Your post was super helpful. I'm pretty confident I can handle it, thanks to your detailed suggestions.

I do have one more quick question. I see you've had to replace several water pumps on the Yaris in a short time. Out of curiosity, what brand were you using? I'm thinking of just getting one from Autozone that has their lifetime warranty, or I could get an OEM online, but I think those have problems and don't have much of a warranty. Please let me know what you think.

Thanks.
cutchin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-16-2011, 04:48 PM   #9
barryware
 
Drives: 2007 Yaris Liftback
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Chicago
Posts: 129
My 1st replacement was a genuine OEM toyota pump.. 1st pump that came with new car lasted around 38k.. this pump never leaked but the shaft began to wobble and it was making all kinds of noise.

The 2nd OEM pump lasted till 73k.. So I am figuring that the oem pump is good for only about 35k+ miles. The last pump, I got at autozone for 1/2 the oem price. The gasket that comes with it was a POS.. just a piece of paper. However, that pump leaked from the get go. They gave me a replacement of the same type and that one is not leaking.

BMG is the maker if the pump I think.. Maybe I have the letters mixed up..

I may be mentioned that the belt was too tight causing the pump to fail prematurely. I can assure you that it was not the case.
barryware is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-16-2011, 05:51 PM   #10
bankrobber
 
Drives: 2007 Yaris Hatchback
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 254
Why so many pumps go bad so soon? I have 130k miles on my 07 and still on oem pump. I drive 95% highway miles and usually over 100 miles from home during the week. I am getting nervous this pump will go bad and Usually where I drive it is at least 50 miles to a auto parts store and sometimes 20 miles to the next gas station.
bankrobber is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2011, 03:52 AM   #11
bronsin
 
bronsin's Avatar
 
Drives: 2009 Base Hatch 2 Dr Auto
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: nj
Posts: 4,790
Quote:
Originally Posted by bankrobber View Post
Why so many pumps go bad so soon? I have 130k miles on my 07 and still on oem pump. I drive 95% highway miles and usually over 100 miles from home during the week. I am getting nervous this pump will go bad and Usually where I drive it is at least 50 miles to a auto parts store and sometimes 20 miles to the next gas station.
Dont worry you got one of the good ones. I bet your pump lasts forever.

But do what I do. Open the engine hood once a month or once a week and look at the bottom of it. When the pump starts to go you will see red streaks of coolant in line with the belts. Mine leaked for a month before I had the dealer replace it under warranty at 26k miles. But the coolant level never went down any. Maybe it would just leak a little and never actually let go. I remember old time water pumps in the 60s. Once they leaked a bit that was it. They were gone in a week or two.

I do not think your Toyota pump will go and blow right away. There will be time to do something.
bronsin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2011, 11:22 PM   #12
auxmike
 
auxmike's Avatar
 
Drives: 2008 HB, A/T, Power W/L/M
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: LI, New Yawk
Posts: 2,063
My first factory installed pump went at 30k. I installed an OEM replacement, and 1k later, it too was spritzing! BUT, I let it ride and it "fixed" itself after a while, like MONTHS later. Go figure. I let it be and it's fine now at 47k. And yeah, order the proper black metal gasket from the Toyo dealer.
PS; I keep I keep a spare pump handy at home.
__________________

Never take eyes off opponent - Bruce Lee
auxmike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2011, 12:35 PM   #13
thepartsmancometh
 
Drives: '08 LB, '07 WRX
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: midwest
Posts: 187
OEM pumps are made by Aisin. We have had VERY mixed luck with the Aisin WP's. We replace a LOT of them (on multiple models). some last 30k. some last forever. must be a issue in manufacturing tolerances or something.

FWIW, our 08 yaris has 65k ish miles on it and is leak free on the original pump
thepartsmancometh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2011, 06:19 PM   #14
OTA'sTOY
DAT'S RIGHT I GOTz 2
 
OTA'sTOY's Avatar
 
Drives: '10 5dr
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Hilo, Hawaii
Posts: 361
Quote:
Originally Posted by bankrobber View Post
Why so many pumps go bad so soon? I have 130k miles on my 07 and still on oem pump. I drive 95% highway miles and usually over 100 miles from home during the week. I am getting nervous this pump will go bad and Usually where I drive it is at least 50 miles to a auto parts store and sometimes 20 miles to the next gas station.
Quote:
Originally Posted by barryware View Post
My 1st replacement was a genuine OEM toyota pump.. 1st pump that came with new car lasted around 38k.. this pump never leaked but the shaft began to wobble and it was making all kinds of noise.

The 2nd OEM pump lasted till 73k.. So I am figuring that the oem pump is good for only about 35k+ miles. The last pump, I got at autozone for 1/2 the oem price. The gasket that comes with it was a POS.. just a piece of paper. However, that pump leaked from the get go. They gave me a replacement of the same type and that one is not leaking.

BMG is the maker if the pump I think.. Maybe I have the letters mixed up..

I may be mentioned that the belt was too tight causing the pump to fail prematurely. I can assure you that it was not the case.
hope it answered your question
__________________


OTA'sTOY is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-02-2012, 06:39 PM   #15
fj40dave
 
fj40dave's Avatar
 
Drives: '08 HB
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Allyn
Posts: 71
90,700 miles....no water pump issues. Replaced pass side front caliper under warranty back at ~26k miles....no issues again there......otherwise, car has been perfect!
fj40dave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-02-2012, 07:03 PM   #16
Altitude
 
Altitude's Avatar
 
Drives: '08 LB MT Bayou
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1,671
Quote:
Originally Posted by fj40dave View Post
90,700 miles....no water pump issues. Replaced pass side front caliper under warranty back at ~26k miles....no issues again there......otherwise, car has been perfect!
What was wrong with the caliper?

Sometimes I think mine grabs too early causing a big pull to the right. Im just not sure because it might just be the road surface.
Altitude is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-03-2012, 04:33 AM   #17
bronsin
 
bronsin's Avatar
 
Drives: 2009 Base Hatch 2 Dr Auto
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: nj
Posts: 4,790
Quote:
Originally Posted by Altitude View Post
What was wrong with the caliper?

Sometimes I think mine grabs too early causing a big pull to the right. Im just not sure because it might just be the road surface.
Jack the car up so the wheel spins. Shake the wheel at 9-3 and 6-12 oclock. If you get play it might be the tie rods or wheel bearings. If the wheel doesnt spin freely you got a sticky/stuck caliper piston.
bronsin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2012, 01:44 PM   #18
BluYrs
ヴィッツ ドライバー
 
BluYrs's Avatar
 
Drives: 2006 3d 1.0 Linea Sol
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Tallinn, Estonia
Posts: 433
My factory pump lasted ~45k miles, just a bit over 5 years.

OEM pump 130$, b-part 70$. Guess which one I went for...
__________________


The blue one
BluYrs is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
water pump changing

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Water Pump gave up on me finally Vioz DIY / Maintenance / Service 4 07-31-2011 06:08 PM
Water Pump leaks and then stops CB900F2 DIY / Maintenance / Service 30 05-09-2011 09:14 AM
HELP: changing water pump dlplunkett44 DIY / Maintenance / Service 4 02-06-2011 09:26 AM
Hmm my water pump failed again!!!! Could it be the pulley?!?! YarisSedan Performance Modifications 64 10-05-2009 09:32 PM
GROUP BUY - JDM (RS) Vitz LED Tail Lamp ... riceboy Items for Sale by private party 453 07-14-2007 08:30 AM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:06 AM.




YarisWorld
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.