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Old 07-01-2019, 01:02 PM   #1
bronsin
 
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Can anyone help with me with my AC?

Tried a can of AC PRO to recharge my air conditioner. But The needle was in the green So the problem is not low refrigerant.

The temperature at the outlets is 90 without the AC on. With AC on, its 70.

Instructions say theres a mechanical problem, but does anyone have an idea what it might be? Are there any steps you can think of I can do to diagnose the problem? If I do go to a shop, Id like to have an idea what needs to be done.

Thanks!
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Old 07-02-2019, 01:04 AM   #2
seatech30
 
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Does it shoot 70 deg when first start the car? I'm wondering if maybe the divider between the heater core and condenser is not working properly and mixing the heater air with your cool air. I'm not too familiar with the yaris HVAC, but this video came to mind https://youtu.be/04MlTepEIz4. Maybe it'll help you think of some things to poke and probe. Also, maybe your knob for temp selection is broken or not relaying the right signal?
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Old 07-02-2019, 07:21 AM   #3
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Make sure the fins are clear, maybe debris is stuck between the rad and the condenser.
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Old 07-02-2019, 09:05 AM   #4
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You will want a manifold gauge setup. You need to be able to watch high side and low side pressures and how they relate to each other to make a diagnosis. Low side pressure alone will tell you nothing, especially if you have adequate pressure there. Those single shot recharge kits are, imo, the wrong tool to use for a properly operating A/C system as they only allow you to see part of the picture. I knew sweet FA about A/C, but with a bit of reading and practice, I've evacuated and recharged my system twice (once as I swapped my engine and again as I had a faulty used compressor), plus adjusted and temperature corrected refrigerant levels. It seems complicated, but it's actually pretty easy.

Once you have a manifold gauge set, here are a couple docs to refer to. If you're using 12A refrigerant, I believe it takes a lot less than R134 to reach spec pressures. The pressures in the charts below work for both 134 and 12A. And, the refrigerants are compatible (confirmed by a couple of A/C shops), but I did a complete replacement rather than blending refigerants.



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Old 07-02-2019, 11:36 AM   #5
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Thank you all. One thing I’ve noticed is that the fan is not going on. Perhaps the relays aren’t working, perhaps the fan is dead. In any case I have an appointment Saturday morning at the shop and they will sort it out .

I’ll let you know what they find. In any case it’s a $3000 car, so if it’s not a cheap fix I’m not likely to fix it.

Thanks again!
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Old 07-02-2019, 12:08 PM   #6
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What Adam said above I agree with. The single low side pressure will tell you nothing.

I just checked/filled the charge on my '05 Vibe before a cottage road trip and there are a few parameters you have to meet such as 30-35*C intake air temps, idle at 1500rpm and then you use a manifold gauge to check tje specs on high and low side pressures. I re filled to bring it back up to the high side of the pressure ranges and the a/c is slightly cooler now. Chances are you are low on r134. In general cars lose about 1-2 ounces from the system per year regardless of it being a closed sealed system.
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Old 07-18-2019, 08:30 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 06YarisRS View Post

Once you have a manifold gauge set, here are a couple docs to refer to. If you're using 12A refrigerant, I believe it takes a lot less than R134 to reach spec pressures. The pressures in the charts below work for both 134 and 12A. And, the refrigerants are compatible (confirmed by a couple of A/C shops), but I did a complete replacement rather than blending refigerants.
WTF is 12a refrigerant? all i do all day is repair a/c recovery machines. i have never heard of 12a refrigerant. i would defiantly not put some other type of refrigerant in your car.
did you discharge that A/C Pro garbage into your vehicle? i hope not because that stuff is total junk! never use any products that contain any type of stop leak. you will most likely need to replace every component in the system if you use this stuff.
also, if this "12a" uses less weight to achieve pressure it would have an adverse effect on low pressure switch and expansion valve causing a lubrication issue resulting in system damage.
but, a manifold gauge set is key to diagnosing issues in A/C system...
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Old 07-18-2019, 10:55 PM   #8
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WTF is 12a refrigerant?
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/HC-12a
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Old 07-19-2019, 12:22 AM   #9
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My AC has also crapped out. I went to use it a few months ago and it wasn't working. I suspect it may have a leak - the condenser is very suspect - but i have also heard these compressors can start to leak out the shaft seals after a while. I won't have a day off work to repair it till the middle of August though so i will have to make do with putting the windows down and feeling the wind in my hair.
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Old 07-20-2019, 12:58 AM   #10
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oh great. propane and butane mixture for replacement in a R12 system.
yeah, differently do not put that in your car...
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Old 08-01-2019, 10:44 AM   #11
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R134a is fine for the Yaris, it's exactly what I use in mine and in any other vehicle I've done an A/C recharge on. It's also basically the only kind you can buy at US or Canadian parts stores.

If your A/C isn't cold, then there's not enough refrigerant in there, and you also have no way of checking how much is in there. I changed the o-rings in my buddy's A/C system this weekend on his Jeep and then filled it back up (didn't do a vacuum), and all you do is simply look at your refrigerant sticker that's somewhere under your hood (usually by the front under the hood or on a bar, I'd have to run outside to check my yaris' sticker location), and on the sticker it'll say the volume of refrigerant recommended for your system. Yaris basically works out to one small can I think. The Jeep was 26 fl oz, so we got two cans of 12 fl oz and a tiny bottle with dye in it for the last 2 fl oz. (some bottles say "equivalent of X fl oz", with those you use the equivalent number)

After putting in only 1 bottle, the system already gets into the nice 30-60 psi range, because the A/C clutch is engaging on and off to keep it there, but you still need to finish putting in the correct volume so it can blow ice cold. The PSI doesn't really tell you the volume, unless you overfill it then it'll stay too high. The A/C clutch will just stop engaging if there's too little volume, or too much volume of refrigerant. The A/C clutch is the part of the A/C compressor's belt wheel, if you stick a flashlight on it you'll see the end spinning on and off when the A/C is turned on (if your A/C has enough refrigerant in it, that is), and you'll see it not spinning when the A/C is off or underfilled or overfilled.

So what I'd do is just release all the pressure in the Low side, and refill the proper amount of refrigerant so your system is happy and at the right numbers. If you want to be a pro you can rent a vacuum pump and the A/C gauges and pull a vacuum on the system so there's no outside air inside and eliminates any moisture that could corrode the inside of the system, but I've never done that and my cars have been fine. Air compresses just fine along with the much thicker refrigerant haha. I'd just not do it on a super humid day, wait for a dry time if you're worried about having moisture in your system.

Also one last thing, releasing the pressure on your system on the Low side requires one those hook-ups/gauges that lets you release it. Wear gloves too. You can also just open the schrader valve other ways but is dangerous, haha

Last edited by kylehaste; 08-01-2019 at 10:54 AM.
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Old 08-01-2019, 10:52 AM   #12
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Quote:
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oh great. propane and butane mixture for replacement in a R12 system.
yeah, differently do not put that in your car...
Read more on the topic before you come to conclusions. To put it in perspective my 2010 outback has a total of 6 ounces of r12a in it. It would combust formless than half a second if ignited.

And yes even r134a is flammable once mixed with a/c oil, not to mention the 45L of combustible fuel behind our passengers seats.

R12a runs at lower high pressure and very slightly higher low pressures so the low pressure switch has no issue recognizing the system is filled. The overall system just runs at lower head pressures which arguably can mean less wear and tear on the system. It is not a patentable refrigerant unlike Dupont's so conveted r134a. Interesting how as soon as a patent wears out suddenly a "new" refrigerant comes to the market.

Up here we cannot buy r134a without a refrigerant license so r12a is the only option (more economical as well) to do our own a/c work. Also is can technically be vented to atmosphere as it is not ozone depleting

I do agree not to use stop leak products unless you are just trying to get rid of the car
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Old 08-01-2019, 11:37 AM   #13
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Oh yeah I always forget about the refrigerant up here in Canada, I'm like 20mins from Buffalo so I'm always stopping in US parts places when I'm over there and don't use the ones here much. I've put the Canadian stuff in before too, works all the same if only slightly less-icy than the American R134a bottles.

Ditto not using stop-leak stuff. Why anyone thinks some liquid is going to clog a leak in a fast moving high pressure tube is beyond me. If the refrigerant is leaking out within days or weeks of a recharge, just get some UV dye applicator for A/C and see which o-ring you have to tackle, or may be the compressor itself. If you put UV dye in though you need to recharge the system too, since the A/C clutch will only engage if you have enough refrigerant in the system, and that's what'll cycle the UV dye throughout the system. I think we went through like four bottles just troubleshooting my buddy's Jeep in Virginia this weekend haha
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Old 08-01-2019, 12:25 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kylehaste View Post
Oh yeah I always forget about the refrigerant up here in Canada, I'm like 20mins from Buffalo so I'm always stopping in US parts places when I'm over there and don't use the ones here much. I've put the Canadian stuff in before too, works all the same if only slightly less-icy than the American R134a bottles.

Ditto not using stop-leak stuff. Why anyone thinks some liquid is going to clog a leak in a fast moving high pressure tube is beyond me. If the refrigerant is leaking out within days or weeks of a recharge, just get some UV dye applicator for A/C and see which o-ring you have to tackle, or may be the compressor itself. If you put UV dye in though you need to recharge the system too, since the A/C clutch will only engage if you have enough refrigerant in the system, and that's what'll cycle the UV dye throughout the system. I think we went through like four bottles just troubleshooting my buddy's Jeep in Virginia this weekend haha
I used to head over the border to pick up r134a but it isn't cheap and I dont like that stuff out to the atmosphere. R12a is just easier to access and it technically cools slightly better than r134a.

The stop leak stuff may work on certain leaks but it ends up potentially clogging other areas ie: coolant system stop leaks clogging radiators
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