SCCA H Stock

[NJ Drive]

A little data to chew on from this weekend:

A national-level competitor in a Kia Rio who's been excluded from STF on the basis that it is just too strong of a car wanted to compare runs to the Yaris. His car was bone stock running on the fuel light- my car was stock except for the rear bar, running with 3/4 tank of fuel.

He took three runs and ran consistently 76.1-76.2
I took four runs and ran 76.6, 76.2, 75.1, 74.1

Next event isn't til the end of the month but at least the car will have everything installed by then and a real alignment.

[xnamerxx]

That's damn impressive, is the Kia also running H stock or is he running ST/C?

[NJ Drive]

Originally Posted by xnamerxx

That's damn impressive, is the Kia also running H stock or is he running ST/C?

He wanted to prep for STF, but that got sidelined since the Kia Rio has been put into STC(which is appropriate because the '89-'91 Civic Si rules that class). He's going to continue running BS with his S2000.

[NJ Drive]

Changing gears a bit... will run RTF(Road Tire FWD) this year instead, to support of SCCA's new supplemental classes.

Ran the Evo in RTA where I finished 2nd at the DC Pro last weekend. Now I get to run the Yaris since the stock Evo Bilsteins are finally getting sent out for a revalve.

Going to run shaved Star Specs in 205/50/16.

[xnamerxx]

Well going to give you some more info about fuel starvation. I ran my car at 1 gal today seeing a 1.02-.05g with elevation changes and didn't run into any problems regarding starvation but I feel running lower than that you'll run into issues.

Not sure if your year car has the same shitty gearing as mine but it might be better to run the 45's rather than the 50's to gain a bit better gearing.

[NJ Drive]

I've thought about using R1Rs in 205/45/16, but won't get the wear or performance out of them I'm looking for, especially shaved. If it were the magical 195/50/15 however...

The RE11s come in that size too but are $200 more per set. I've been using Star Specs since 2008 on four different cars and they are the best all-arounder on the market IMO.

Thanks for the feedback on fuel too!

[NJ Drive]

Ran my first event in RTF this past weekend.

Finished 0.8 seconds behind one of the fastest Mini guys in our region after 3 runs, 1.0 second behind after 6 runs.

Dumbass me forgot the Tokico 3mm hex tool to adjust damping so I was stuck running 1.5 turns from full stiff in the rear, 3.5 turns from full stiff in the front.

The way the car handled I would have rather bumped the fronts up while lowering the rears but that'll have to wait until next time.

http://autox4u.zenfolio.com/p236877943/e3920b430
http://autox4u.zenfolio.com/p236877943/e29279b42
http://autox4u.zenfolio.com/p236877943/e3a01a89b

I hate using five letters for classification, but apparently it makes life easier for our regional timing and scoring to PAX us.

Going to dial out all the rear toe in, maybe to a hint of toe out next. Front is set at zero toe.
Also still need to play with the front subframe. Front camber ended up at -1.3°L and -1.8°R using the crash bolts and sitting in the car. Was -1.5°L, -1.6°R without me.

[Jason@SportsCar]

Originally Posted by NJ Drive

Going to dial out all the rear toe in, maybe to a hint of toe out next.

How do you intend to address this within the stock class framework? The FSM only gives specs for front crash bolts, no rear adjustment procedure is listed.

[NJ Drive]

No shims for the rear hubs? If that's true that sucks.

[xnamerxx]

Careful application of BFH might be legal.

[ilikerice]

nice tripod pic..

[NJ Drive]

So alignment debacles aside, I've been talking with SCCA's Brian Harmer and Doug Gill regarding the air filter(s) in the Yaris airbox.

After forwarding pictures to both parties, Doug has concluded that it would be legal to remove one or both, provided the gasket(which only resides on the removable filter) stays in place so no other openings are present when the airbox is closed.

[Golddeenoh]

you slinging around pretty nicely, I see you are ride'n on 3 wheels a good bit there.

[Jason@SportsCar]

If you want to change rear toe you just need to get creative like Mazda did with its B-Spec kit for the 2. The rear "swaybar" just happens to be of a design that lets you adjust toe. Don't let that "may serve no other purpose" language get in the way. lol

Top image closer to production piece:


This was an earlier prototype:

[NJ Drive]

Very nice Jason. Setting the toe with that bar would be easy peasy!

I'd love to iimplement something like that back there in conjunction with the already present UR rear bar, but would like to make it look as a unit. Or just delete the UR bar altogether since this might trump having a typical rear sway bar anyway.

[Jason@SportsCar]

Originally Posted by NJ Drive

Very nice Jason. Setting the toe with that bar would be easy peasy!

I'd love to iimplement something like that back there in conjunction with the already present UR rear bar, but would like to make it look as a unit. Or just delete the UR bar altogether since this might trump having a typical rear sway bar anyway.

Unfortunately there is not a real "swaybar" on the market for these cars, everything out there is just a torsion bar that attempts to stiffen the beam, there is nothing countering the movement like with a traditional swaybar. That is part of the reason we don't run one, just dead weight, the same thing can be accomplished in a better way for our application - we just went with really short shocks that stop the excessive droop, but they are shorter than you could use in stock class.

Now it would be really interesting to see what could be done with a speedway style rear bar, actually attached to the body that counters the suspension movement.




If you want over-steer just mix tires... Fresh slicks on the front with rears that corded by then end of a 4-lap qualifying session. It was intense.

[NJ Drive]

What does a bar like the one on the Mazda 2 do to the toe dynamically?

It'll stay the same length when the torsion beam twists which would probably do some really funky things to the alignment with the amount of shock travel I have.

Love the exhaust pictured above too.

[racerb]

Ok let's just say I want to run my '10 Yaris in H-Stock, well at my age the SCCA Stock class rules are more confusing than ever. If I get this straight I can add a rear swaybar, drop-in air filter, adjustable shocks w/stock hieght perches, crash bolts, after market brake pads, and R-Compound tires. But what about brake rotors, can you use after market, as in slotted and/or cross drilled rotors (stock diameter of coarse)? Oh and did I also see that the traction-control can be dis-abled? The last time I ran Stock classes, the cars were just that, stock with very limited R-Compound tires in use. In fact I won an E-Stock and D-Stock club Championship with totally stock vehicles, only changed tires.

Hate to sound so stupid but, went Road Racing years ago and kinda lost touch with the Auto-X side of things, any help would be great!!

racerb