Motor Oil and filters

[Klink10]

Originally Posted by 1stToyota

Who makes K&N oil filters?

Champion, same folks who make the Supertechs from WalMart.

[jkuchta]

I myself run Motul 300V 5W-30, and the amsoil filters. The oil is expensive and tough to find, but worth it.


On a side note, I would not go with a 0W-30 oil. during normal driving, I have not seen oil temps higher than about 90 degrees C, and have only seen temps at or above 100 degrees C on the track. Note that multigrade oil dosen't get to its "hot" number until it hits 100 Degrees C, which means the 0W oil may be much thinner once the engine is warm in the yaris (due to the low operating temp.) than a 5W oil.

[Tamago]

just curious, what makes "expensive oil worth it" ?

oh and FYI, CHEVRON has the best purification capabilities of ANY oil manufacturer.

[1stToyota]

Originally Posted by Tamago

just curious, what makes "expensive oil worth it" ?

oh and FYI, CHEVRON has the best purification capabilities of ANY oil manufacturer.

The base on Amsoil is about as pure as it gets, but I'm not so worried about that. It's the additive packages that go back in that make the oil, not the base.

[gid]

to me , paying $12 > $14 a quart is overkill . Especially while under warranty and having to change oil every 5,000 miles or less until the 60,000 mile powertrain is over . Then maybe I'll consider it . PENNZOIL Platinum full synthetic has U.O.A. results that are close to those of AMSOIL at $4.00 a quart ( or less ) . Go to www.bobistheoilguy.com for comparisons under USED OIL ANALYSIS - Gas ( engines ) . Currently using SHELL full synthetic 5w-30 which is $4.50 (including tax) a quart at BJs WHOLESALE with trial MEMBERSHIP . Using it for both '08s ( sedan + L.B. ) . This has good U.O.A.s as well .

[1stToyota]

I'm doing 5K OCI, but I'm not using the regular XL Amsoil, I'm using Amsoil HP 25K oil, ACEA A5/B5 rating, $6.60 per qt (no tax) ...I've paid much more than that for inferior oils in the past.

The engine was noticably noisier when filled with Eneos 5w-30 and Nippon filter.

[gid]

must be they charge more for the AMSOIL in our region , that being the NORTHEAST .

[Tamago]

oil schmoil

keep it clean, change it often.... call it good..

[SilverGlow]

Originally Posted by mikenacarato

when i asked the dealer they said 5w30 and only 5w30

My dealer showed me a TSB (published by Toyota) and he told me to use 5w-20 only, regardless of what the manual says, and regardless of what is printed on my valve cover cap.

[SilverGlow]

Originally Posted by jkuchta

I myself run Motul 300V 5W-30, and the amsoil filters. The oil is expensive and tough to find, but worth it.


On a side note, I would not go with a 0W-30 oil. during normal driving, I have not seen oil temps higher than about 90 degrees C, and have only seen temps at or above 100 degrees C on the track. Note that multigrade oil dosen't get to its "hot" number until it hits 100 Degrees C, which means the 0W oil may be much thinner once the engine is warm in the yaris (due to the low operating temp.) than a 5W oil.

What you wrote contradicts the data-sheets published by AMSOIL, Pennzoil, Mobil Oil, and ALL the major synthetic makers of 0w-20, 5w-20, 0w-30, and 5w-30.

I guess you know more then their scientists, and tribologists....

The fact is, 0w-20 and 5w-20 show the same viscosity at operational temperatures (around 212F).

The fact is, 0w-30 and 5w-30 and 10w-30 and stright 30 weight have the same viscosity at 212F too, as their differences are too small to be significant.

For example, AMSOIL's 0w-30 protects THE SAME or better then any brand's 5w-30 or 10w-30 or straight 30 weight oil at full operational temps.

I really wish you would stop propagating outright lies and mistruths here.

[jkuchta]

I don't think you read my post Silverglow.

What I said is that I haven't seen the oil in my car get near 212 F under normal driving conditions. Because the second viscosity number is measured at 212 F in the lab, it would stand to reason that a multigrade oil's "Hot" viscocity would not be met at temps lower than 212 F. Basically, the Yaris doesn't heat its oil up to 212F until you really start beating on it (It takes like 15min. on the freeway in the morning for the oil temp to hit 80 degrees C (176F), and it dosen't really go above 86 degrees C after that...even in heavy traffic!). It would therefore stand to reason that at a given temp below 212 F, a 0W-30 oil would be thinner than a 5W-30 oil. If someone could show me a graph of each multigrade oil's viscocity vs. temp I would be very appreciative.

Tamago....

What makes the expensive Motul oil worth it to me is the fact that it's an Ester based oil. No cheap PAO's or "super-cracked" dino for my hatch!
I drive the car pretty hard, and don't mind spending a little extra for the best. Everyone is free to choose the oil they want to spend their money on, and I choose Motul.
Chevron may have the best filtering process for petrolium in the industry, but the oil I use is not petrolium based, which kind of makes that point moot.

[1stToyota]

Originally Posted by SilverGlow

My dealer showed me a TSB (published by Toyota) and he told me to use 5w-20 only, regardless of what the manual says, and regardless of what is printed on my valve cover cap.

And regardless of what that Toyota TSB actually says?

It clearly states that 5w-20 is fine to use now, but the note at the top of the TSB says to stick with what's listed in the service manuals, owner's manual and oil cap, which happens to be 5w-30.

Looks like the dealer drew his own conclusions about what's best, just like you did when you started using and recommending Yaris owners to use 0w-20 because of UOAs for non-Yaris motors, and because the TSB said 0w-20 was okay to use in a Corolla, Scion XD, etc...but if I can read between the lines I'm guessing that you drained out the 0w-20 and took the dealer's advice about the 5w-20.

[1stToyota]

Originally Posted by gid

must be they charge more for the AMSOIL in our region , that being the NORTHEAST .

It's probably expensive everywhere, I'm just getting a good deal on it because I know the guy. If I didn't have that connection I'd be using Pennzoil Platinum because of its high ratings, and because I can get it for nearly the same price that I pay for dino Valvoline.

[Chupacabra]

You would have to snot the hell out of the Yaris to get the oil remotely close to 212 degrees.

[TheSilkySmooth]

Our Camry engine is dead now from dealer using the 5W-20 ONCE on a tsb. My Spouse did not "hear" the engine disintegrating and I didin't find out until I went for a trip to her friends house. I said to her, " ... your engine has spun a rod beaing - get it to the dealer right away!", But Now she is 4000 miles OVER the warranty and we are S>O>L and money and good car.

So all you 20-weight proponents can stick it in your ear. This engine ran good on the 5W30 oil I was putting in. Dealer wrecked it. I will Trade for Nissan Rogue or sinilar, and Silver"worm"glow can buy my spouses destroyed trade-in because the oil is perfect. Moronic Nonsense!

Papa

[TheSilkySmooth]

Any Engine oil should run over 100C in warm climate on normal 10 mile commute to boil off H-O-H. The Coolant jacket cycles to 90C, under the piston dome and around valve pockets should be significantly hotter getting oil over the BP. I dont have sump guage installed either so I cabnnot confirm - I dont RACE the little yaris plus its Sis' car.

-the Bro

[nsmitchell]

Originally Posted by TheSilkySmooth

Our Camry engine is dead now from dealer using the 5W-20 ONCE on a tsb. My Spouse did not "hear" the engine disintegrating and I didin't find out until I went for a trip to her friends house. I said to her, " ... your engine has spun a rod beaing - get it to the dealer right away!", But Now she is 4000 miles OVER the warranty and we are S>O>L and money and good car.

So all you 20-weight proponents can stick it in your ear. This engine ran good on the 5W30 oil I was putting in. Dealer wrecked it. I will Trade for Nissan Rogue or sinilar, and Silver"worm"glow can buy my spouses destroyed trade-in because the oil is perfect. Moronic Nonsense!

Papa

If the TSB was followed, I would contact Toyota for a new engine, covered under "Special Warranty". If you can prove the 5W-20 "caused" the damage, you will get your new engine.

[Tamago]

Originally Posted by nsmitchell

If the TSB was followed, I would contact Toyota for a new engine, covered under "Special Warranty". If you can prove the 5W-20 "caused" the damage, you will get your new engine.

most dealers pump oil out of a common 500 gallon tank.. they use recycled oil, whatever the local petroleum supply sells..

it's crap oil..

but seriously, a 30 to 20 weight change on the high end of viscosity is NOT GOING TO SPIN A BEARING. there has to be another factor that caused the damage.