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Old 05-17-2019, 08:34 PM   #1
tmontague
 
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Exclamation Brake line installation warning!

I installed my new OEM rubber brake lines last week in an orientation that appeared to look correct. I was skimming through the repair manual and noted that the brake line was meant to be installed a slightly different way. Thinking I could be ruining my new lines due to pinching and also thinking this may have been the reasons my SS lines failed a few months ago, I went to properly reinstall them the other day.

You can see the loop made on the part of the brake line behind the knuckle. It is supposed to go back and then loop back around and under the line and then up to the hard line connection.


***Take note that I am running aftermarket coil overs (BC Racing) which may position the brake line bracket at a different height/orientation***

Turns out that the way I had them installed was the most correct way possible when the wheel is turned lock to lock. I highly recommend you do not install them the way the manual states as you will likely rip your line off of your car under full lock turning. Check out the pics below for an explanation.

Factory repair manual orientation:


The line doesn't look too stressed and it seems fine when the steering wheel is pointed straight

Steering wheel turned to full lock

you could hear the line being stretch while turning the wheel (new lines are stiff). The line was absolutely maxed out. This would lead to failure over time

My "common sense" orientation:


the line isn't very stressed when wheels pointed straight, although the factory way appears to look slightly less stressed with the wheel pointed straight ahead.

Turned one way at full lock

look very easy on the line

Turned the other way at full lock

This is the most stressed position but it still isn't terrible

Bottom line: Check full lock to lock of steering after installed new brake lines just to be sure!
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Old 05-20-2019, 08:46 AM   #2
CrankyOldMan
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Definitely good to know!
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Old 05-21-2019, 02:29 PM   #3
komichal
 
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Great info!
I am thinking whether it would be wise to change all the brake hoses as a preventive maintenance. After 12 years of service during salty winters, one may think that the rubber hoses may be affected by the salt. But I have not seen any recommendation on this topic....
BTW are there any "tuning hoses" that may be good to use? I am not sure what the "tuning" would mean here, maybe longer lifespan, lower expansion during pedal pressure etc....?
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Old 05-21-2019, 03:08 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by komichal View Post
Great info!
I am thinking whether it would be wise to change all the brake hoses as a preventive maintenance. After 12 years of service during salty winters, one may think that the rubber hoses may be affected by the salt. But I have not seen any recommendation on this topic....
BTW are there any "tuning hoses" that may be good to use? I am not sure what the "tuning" would mean here, maybe longer lifespan, lower expansion during pedal pressure etc....?
it's not a bad idea to do it after 12 years. However if the car is only driven on the street then I would say it is not worth the hassle of seized brake line fittings and a much bigger fix. I only did this because the car sees a lot of track time and the amount of pressure I exude on the brakes is far greater than I ever do on the street.

As far as "tuner" brake lines go, they would be your stainless steel variety. Something that I don't necessarily think are a bad thing if you constantly check them and replace them as needed. I do not however recommend them on the Yaris due to the very odd orientation of the front brake lines leading to sharp bend in the lines. SS doesn't have as much flexibility and I personally as well as others have had failures. Luckily mine did not fail while on the track.
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Old 05-22-2019, 09:31 AM   #5
myfirstyota
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Great info! I'll be referring to this in a couple weeks when I install my new lines.
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Old 05-23-2019, 08:35 AM   #6
CrankyOldMan
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Have you replaced the hard lines all the way back to the brake booster? I ordered a set for the front because the fittings on the flex end wouldn't let go. Taking the engine out this weekend to do the clutch, might as well do that while I've got access to them, right?
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Old 05-23-2019, 11:50 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrankyOldMan View Post
Have you replaced the hard lines all the way back to the brake booster? I ordered a set for the front because the fittings on the flex end wouldn't let go. Taking the engine out this weekend to do the clutch, might as well do that while I've got access to them, right?
No i have not, I have only replaced all the soft rubber lines and the two hard lines in the rear that run from the soft line to the wheel cylinder.
My original plan was to use an m10 1.0 double female union and add some NiCopp line to the OEM line under the body to get rid of the almost stripped OEM fitting that join the rear flex line. The issue is that you need to get rid of the poly coating to flare the OEM line and good luck stripping that coating off. I also found it near impossible to make a proper double flare with the line still on the car. My tool is a cheap generic tool and it really only makes good flares inn a bench vice.

My OEM lines are in good shape except near the nuts where there is no poly coating. They are not rusted too bad though. My future plan is to replace everything with self bent NiCopp line once this car in a track only car and can sit all winter in a garage. This way I never have to worry about corrosion and it will be much cheaper than OEM lines.

I wouldn't attempt this with the engine in place, it will be much easier with the engine and trans removed. The sub frame and read axle also get in the way and would be worth dropping.
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