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Old 12-14-2016, 06:18 PM   #37
Bluevitz-rs
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The other issue might be a stuck VVTi actuator in the advanced position. It would cause too much overlap and vent compression back into the intake on the compression stroke.
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Old 10-17-2017, 07:30 AM   #38
YarisVVTi2002
 
Drives: Yaris VVTi 2002
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Hi everybody, I'm back! I never got to find the cause of the non-starting problem in my Yaris last year, so I left it over the winter. I changed the VVTi solenoid / actuator in the spring and tried to start it and it worked almost immediately, I tried putting the old one back in (as I couldn't see anything wrong with it) and the car still worked. I've run it intermittently over the summer with the new solenoid in without any problems. I don't think the cause is the solenoid. I didn't use it for while but now that the cold weather has started the Yaris is back to the same problem as before and doesn't start but turns over OK. Nothing was done on it between when it was starting and when it was not.

I put in some cold start spray into the air inlet and it almost started for a second.

I've checked a few obvious things: there is a decent spark on all the plugs, fuel is getting through but the compression is low (5 bar / 75psi) . The battery is fully charged. It's had new plugs, air & oil filter and new oil.

I've plugged in the OBD and no error codes show up.

We never solved the problem last year and the current symptoms are the same. My best guess is something temperature or fuel related.

Any ideas anyone?
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Old 10-24-2017, 08:33 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YarisVVTi2002 View Post
Hi everybody, I'm back! I never got to find the cause of the non-starting problem in my Yaris last year, so I left it over the winter. I changed the VVTi solenoid / actuator in the spring and tried to start it and it worked almost immediately, I tried putting the old one back in (as I couldn't see anything wrong with it) and the car still worked. I've run it intermittently over the summer with the new solenoid in without any problems. I don't think the cause is the solenoid. I didn't use it for while but now that the cold weather has started the Yaris is back to the same problem as before and doesn't start but turns over OK. Nothing was done on it between when it was starting and when it was not.

I put in some cold start spray into the air inlet and it almost started for a second.

I've checked a few obvious things: there is a decent spark on all the plugs, fuel is getting through but the compression is low (5 bar / 75psi) . The battery is fully charged. It's had new plugs, air & oil filter and new oil.

I've plugged in the OBD and no error codes show up.

We never solved the problem last year and the current symptoms are the same. My best guess is something temperature or fuel related.

Any ideas anyone?


Fuel pump?


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Old 10-24-2017, 10:30 AM   #40
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How do you know fuel is getting through? Is it making it into the combustion chamber?
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Old 10-26-2017, 10:45 PM   #41
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Did you make that brake cleaner test back then ???
My car pulled off fuelpump's pressure neck seal 3 weeks ago !
Fuel still flowed back to tank but there was no pressure to fire up .... With brake cleaner it fired up immediately !


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Old 11-02-2017, 05:50 PM   #42
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Sounds like something temperature related, maybe a coolant or air temp. sensor giving ecm wrong info? The EGR valve can cause trouble, but Toyota's have very little trouble with them.
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Old 11-04-2017, 08:40 PM   #43
YarisVVTi2002
 
Drives: Yaris VVTi 2002
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I've checked out the fuel system at last.
I took out the fuel pump and sender unit (located under a cover under the back seat). The fuel filter was clean and pump ran fine when connected to 12V. I then took out the complete fuel rail with injectors connected and turned it over with just one injector connector plugged in at a time - they all had a good stream of fuel shooting out of them. So it doesn't seem to be a problem with the fuel system!!
I'm waiting to get some new injector gaskets before reconnecting the fuel rail - it's really hard to find any for sale.
Perhaps I'll start looking at the inlet manifold, and clean throttle, EGR valve, IAC valve etc?
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Old 11-17-2017, 07:10 PM   #44
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Engine turns over but doesn’t start on a Toyota Yaris 1.3 Auto 2002 VVTi By YarisVVTi

This has to be one of the craziest problems ever. I still can’t find any reason for the Yaris not starting.
In summary:
When the engine is cranked:
1. There are good sparks produced on the spark plugs
2. There is a good spray of fuel from all 4 fuel injectors

I have cleaned the PCV valve and disconnected the catalytic converter inlet pipe but it still doesn’t start. No DTC errors come up on the OBD module but I have enclosed a screenshot of the OBD live data screen when the engine is turned over. I notice that the air flow rate during cranking is between 0.2 -1.43 g/s, this seems quite low? We now know there is no blockage in the exhaust and even if the air filter is removed it won’t start.
Last autumn the car stopped starting but started again without doing anything major to it this summer, now it’s stopped starting again as before.
What do people think? Is there anything that should be checked? Timing, ECU?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg yaris_15-11-17a.jpg (307.5 KB, 128 views)
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Old 01-23-2018, 05:16 PM   #45
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Any more ideas anyone? The Yaris is still the same; not starting.
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Old 02-05-2018, 11:23 PM   #46
yaris2011-07
 
Drives: 2008 yaris hb ce
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YarisVVTi2002 View Post
Hi everybody, I'm back! I never got to find the cause of the non-starting problem in my Yaris last year, so I left it over the winter. I changed the VVTi solenoid / actuator in the spring and tried to start it and it worked almost immediately, I tried putting the old one back in (as I couldn't see anything wrong with it) and the car still worked. I've run it intermittently over the summer with the new solenoid in without any problems. I don't think the cause is the solenoid. I didn't use it for while but now that the cold weather has started the Yaris is back to the same problem as before and doesn't start but turns over OK. Nothing was done on it between when it was starting and when it was not.

I put in some cold start spray into the air inlet and it almost started for a second.

I've checked a few obvious things: there is a decent spark on all the plugs, fuel is getting through but the compression is low (5 bar / 75psi) . The battery is fully charged. It's had new plugs, air & oil filter and new oil.

I've plugged in the OBD and no error codes show up.

We never solved the problem last year and the current symptoms are the same. My best guess is something temperature or fuel related.

Any ideas anyone?
75 psi is low for a 1.5L engine...I suspect it may also be low for a 1.3L engine.

The link below states that minimum compression should be 156 psi

http://workshop-manuals.com/toyota/y...ons/page_1821/

Try following the HINT instructions:

HINT:
^

If adding oil increases the compression, the piston rings and/or cylinder bore may be worn or damaged.

^

If the pressure stays low, the valve may be stuck or seated improperly, or there may be leakage from the gasket.
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Old 12-11-2018, 02:30 PM   #47
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YarisVVTi2002, did you manage to resolve this problem?
I ask because my 2002 Yaris 1.3 has the same problem now that the weather has turned cold. The engine turns over fine, it won't fire up. Before today it was running perfectly, but it just will not fire up now.
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Old 06-04-2019, 06:14 AM   #48
YarisVVTi2002
 
Drives: Yaris VVTi 2002
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Sorry BlueMonsoon, I never found the cause of the cranking no start problem.
The Yaris was laid up not working since my last post. I recently tried starting it again during some nice warm weather and it started straight away. I used it everyday for about a week and it was running well. I took it for an MOT and it passed without any problems. I parked the car working for about a week and when I tried to use it again the old cranking no start problem came back.
I've been doing some checks on it and will update everyone about it soon.
Did you ever solve your cranking no start problem?
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Old 06-13-2019, 02:48 AM   #49
24boosted
 
Drives: 09 yrs
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I am having a similar issue with my 09 Yaris with 113k miles. I have replaced nearly everything in the car yet it will start then will stall after a few seconds. (Replaced: spark plugs, coil packs, fuel pump, fuel sender, and cleaned throttle body.) No CEL is coming on, ran a diagnostic check with BlueDriver and nothing came up. I ordered a new MAF that should be in shortly. I am hoping that might fix the issue.

Edit: I finally got a check engine light to go on after letting it idle for 15 minutes. Several misfires on all cylinders, lean on bank 1. I ran the codes and it showed that the most common issue is a vacuum leak. I checked spark, fuel, and air. Seems to be air that is the issue since I had replaced everything associated with ignition and fuel. The new maf and crankshaft sensor came in and didn't really help with the issue after replacing. So I just ordered new gaskets for the intake manifold and throttle body. Hopefully this resolves the issue and a possible solution for your vehicle.

Last edited by 24boosted; 06-21-2019 at 12:48 AM.
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Old 06-30-2019, 12:30 PM   #50
24boosted
 
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So I took the car in to a shop that was highly recommended on Yelp and by Triple A. They spent two days on it and couldn't really figure it out. All diagnostics came back within spec, all sensors are running perfectly. Better be since I replaced just about every single one.

They charged me $400 and said one of the O-rings on the fuel pump was not installed correctly and it was leaking fuel pressure. I drove it home and it ran smoothly.

A day later: It started up with some hesitation and drove smoothly, then it started to struggle the instant I turned on the AC. I am suspecting the fuel pressure regulator. Just ordered a new one and hope this last thing fixes it. The code was for a P0171 lean condition in bank 1. I have replaced just about everything except the o2 sensors and fpr. Those are the next two variables remaining that is associated with the code.

EDIT: Problem solved! After 3 weeks and with a shop not being able to figure it out. The O-ring on the fuel pump kept getting dislodged due to a missing spacer! I noticed it after taking everything apart and saw that the o-ring wasn't sitting correctly again that was after the shop had reinstalled it. Car runs great now and the motor feels really healthy. I had checked compression and came out 165-175 psi on all 4 cylinders to be sure the motor wasn't dead. Was about to scrap the car too.

Last edited by 24boosted; 07-01-2019 at 01:23 AM.
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