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Old 02-02-2018, 04:28 PM   #1
nemelek
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100K Water pump and drive belt

Picture of old parts at 100,000 miles. Glad I changed them out. Thanks to this Forum and members for their pictures, procedures and advice. Took three hours.
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Old 02-05-2018, 07:33 PM   #2
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Did you use an OEM drivebelt? I had mine replaced at 9 years old when the voltage regulator in my alternator went bad and the mechanic replaced it with a Dayco belt which squealed like crazy for no reason a little over a year later.
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Old 02-05-2018, 07:55 PM   #3
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Yes you are right. The aftermarket parts suck on these cars. If you are going to use other than anything from the dealership, stick to bando or mitsuboshi. They make the OE belts.
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Old 02-06-2018, 12:10 PM   #4
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Over the 4-5 years I've owned my current yaris, I have replaced the drive belt 4 times (the 4th one last weekend). Each time because it starts squealing at startup, even after re-tightening. Each time with a different brand from the local shops. Cheap or expensive, it makes no difference. This last time I just took it to the shop and had them do it. At least now if it starts doing it again I can just take it back to them and say "fix your crap". Lets hope 4th time is the charm.
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Old 04-20-2018, 06:22 AM   #5
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I was just watching a youtube video about a guy who claims that you can make your drive belts last hundreds of thousands of miles with a product designed to polish tires.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dRXkt6Dgi4k

On another note, did you replace the water pump with an OEM Aisin one from Toyota, OP? There was another thread on here where everyone complained that the new OEM waterpump would start leaking every 30k miles.
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Old 04-20-2018, 03:36 PM   #6
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HRrVMtyIqIY

Check this video out and see if it helps with your belt squealing.

Last edited by Secretblend; 04-20-2018 at 03:49 PM.
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Old 04-20-2018, 06:27 PM   #7
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very useful, this after having fabricated a belt tensioner from a post on how to solve this extremely annoying problem. It also explains why at times it does not squeal, probably just started the car a little slower...
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Old 09-03-2018, 07:25 PM   #8
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I just installed a new Dayco Poly Rib belt on my 2007 with 75,000 miles. Engine ran much better and so much smoother. I wasn't expecting a better running engine. I just thought I better replace it after 12 years and 75K. My OEM belt never squeaked or chirped ever and this Dayco Poly Rib is silent as well. Before I loosened the alternator bolts I marked around the bolt washer with a sharpie pen. Tension-ed the new Dayco at the exact marking and it seems perfect. Maybe it's the Dayco Poly Cog belts that squeal? My Poly Rib said made in USA on the belt. Good enough for me.
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Old 09-04-2018, 06:20 AM   #9
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Serpentine belt tension adjustment water pump bearings

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedtalker View Post
I just installed a new Dayco Poly Rib belt on my 2007 with 75,000 miles. Engine ran much better and so much smoother. I wasn't expecting a better running engine. I just thought I better replace it after 12 years and 75K. My OEM belt never squeaked or chirped ever and this Dayco Poly Rib is silent as well. Before I loosened the alternator bolts I marked around the bolt washer with a sharpie pen. Tension-ed the new Dayco at the exact marking and it seems perfect. Maybe it's the Dayco Poly Cog belts that squeal? My Poly Rib said made in USA on the belt. Good enough for me.
Absolutely not a way to set new-belt tension.

(Serpentine belt tension adjustment water pump bearings)
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Old 09-06-2018, 08:20 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by dogsridewith View Post
Absolutely not a way to set new-belt tension.

(Serpentine belt tension adjustment water pump bearings)
That was the factory setting dog. It was exactly where the factory tech placed it. I figured it was a good starting point before FINAL tension setting after the new belt stretch. My tension tool is on the way.
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Old 09-07-2018, 08:23 AM   #11
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Water pump serpentine belt tension tensiometer

No way. Good chance you're killing the water pump bearings. Running too tight wouldn't help the belt either. (How do you think you would be able to know too-tight by observation...when saying "seems perfect?")

By the way. The manual's serpentine belt tension treatment is a Mind of Toyota cluster-fluff. I won't recommend a method for anyone else, but mine is an initial set to not-too-tight by feel, matchmark, and tighten in tiny increments when hearing a chirp at startup. (I'd carry tools if making a trip on a new belt.)

I'm tightening by a 13 inch channel lock plier w/ jaws on the end of the curve-slot adjuster bar and the alternator's upper bolt boss. (Toyota manual wants prybar but be careful to miss the critical mechanism right there some where hard to see and same color as the other metal engine parts.)
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Old 09-07-2018, 09:14 AM   #12
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When I set the tension on mine I set my calipers to 11mm and rested them on the longest run of the belt in the middle with one hand and deflected the belt with my thumb. It was probably a little loose but it didn't squeal. The belt I'm using is a Chinesium Blue Print belt. So far it's been silent unlike the Dayco belt that was on there before which squealed for no reason whatever the adjustment.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
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Old 09-07-2018, 10:18 AM   #13
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serpentine belt deflection specification Toyota Yaris

Toyota also gives "Deflection" specs for new and used belts. But it is a meaningless number without prescribing the applied perpendicular force that causes the measured belt deflection.
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Old 09-09-2018, 07:09 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogsridewith View Post
No way. Good chance you're killing the water pump bearings. Running too tight wouldn't help the belt either. (How do you think you would be able to know too-tight by observation...when saying "seems perfect?")

By the way. The manual's serpentine belt tension treatment is a Mind of Toyota cluster-fluff. I won't recommend a method for anyone else, but mine is an initial set to not-too-tight by feel, matchmark, and tighten in tiny increments when hearing a chirp at startup. (I'd carry tools if making a trip on a new belt.)

I'm tightening by a 13 inch channel lock plier w/ jaws on the end of the curve-slot adjuster bar and the alternator's upper bolt boss. (Toyota manual wants prybar but be careful to miss the critical mechanism right there some where hard to see and same color as the other metal engine parts.)
Thanks for the heads up. I did the 90 degree twist method after setting it where the Toyota tech set it. Seems right on but I will of course check it with my new v-belt guage when it arrives. (fFrom the Web) Place a belt tension gauge in the span shown and tighten the belt until the tension reads 102-123 ft.-lbs.

If you don't have a tension gauge, just measure the deflection of the belt in the span area shown in the illustration. When properly tightened, the belt should deflect .410 to .450 inch. I did put the wrenches in my car after the install. Just in case
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Last edited by Tedtalker; 09-09-2018 at 07:23 PM.
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Old 09-09-2018, 07:13 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zoidberg444 View Post
When I set the tension on mine I set my calipers to 11mm and rested them on the longest run of the belt in the middle with one hand and deflected the belt with my thumb. It was probably a little loose but it didn't squeal. The belt I'm using is a Chinesium Blue Print belt. So far it's been silent unlike the Dayco belt that was on there before which squealed for no reason whatever the adjustment.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
Was your Dayco belt the Poly Rib or Poly Cog? My Poly Rib is silent.
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Old 09-19-2018, 03:25 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogsridewith View Post
Toyota also gives "Deflection" specs for new and used belts. But it is a meaningless number without prescribing the applied perpendicular force that causes the measured belt deflection.
My series 3 manual lists the deflection specifications in both metric and imperial measurements. On the longest section of the belt between the crankshaft pulley and alternator pulley there should be 12.5 to 13.5 mm (0.49 to 0.53 inches) deflection at the centre of the belt for 10 kg (22 pounds) of applied force.

The same measurement is listed for both 1NZ-FE and 2NZ-FE engines.
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Old 09-19-2018, 05:03 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07liftback View Post
I was just watching a youtube video about a guy who claims that you can make your drive belts last hundreds of thousands of miles with a product designed to polish tires.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dRXkt6Dgi4k

On another note, did you replace the water pump with an OEM Aisin one from Toyota, OP? There was another thread on here where everyone complained that the new OEM waterpump would start leaking every 30k miles.
The belt on my wife’s Camry was replaced at 150,000 miles and according to the gauge the gates makes it was still serviceable
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Old 09-20-2018, 07:16 PM   #18
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At twelve years and 75,000 miles my factory belt was dry and brittle. Had cracks all over it. Very glad I changed it.
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