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Old 11-26-2008, 11:19 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Chupacabra View Post
Junk-bulk oil? Mobil 1 synthetic is junk-bulk oil? They are the factory fill on what cars?.....oh nevermind?

AMSOIL is a waste of money on a Yaris and you would be better served buying more expensive gasoline with detergents (Shell).
Spending $3 more for Mobil1, over Amsoil XL, and $2.50 more for Mobil1 XP, over Amsoil HP would be the silliest thing I could ever do, imo. No thanks. Shell in my area is cheap and 10% ethanol, I stay away from it.

btw, Yes Mobil1 is factory fill in cars like my GTO. At the time, seems like most owners I knew made the switch to Amsoil and RP.....oh well.
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Old 11-26-2008, 11:21 AM   #20
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wow.. 2 pages of replies in a night :)
thanks guys.. i will stick with RP then.

I've been using mobile1 in my echo. and my change interval was 8000km (5000miles) and i found the oil filter was kinda heavy for my liking. So, i change it sooner depending on my driving for that period of time. I sure should do an UOA... but what the hell...

I will change this time.. and i guess i'll do the next when i reach 8000km see how it goes. Also, there were still a bit of left over from the old mobile1 when i last changed it. I dumped a whole quart of fresh mobile1 to clean out the used oil before switching to RP...
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Old 11-26-2008, 11:23 AM   #21
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Well...if you pay less for the Amsoil then that's different.

What's wrong with 10% ethanol? What percentage of ethanol is in the gas you buy now?
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Old 11-26-2008, 11:31 AM   #22
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Well...if you pay less for the Amsoil then that's different.

What's wrong with 10% ethanol? What percentage of ethanol is in the gas you buy now?
There's a top-tier station 2 blocks from my house, 0% ethanol.
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Old 11-26-2008, 11:33 AM   #23
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What's wrong with ethanol in the yaris?
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Old 11-26-2008, 12:16 PM   #24
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What's wrong with ethanol in the yaris?
could be wrong but i have heard that 10% E will cut 10 to 15% on your MPG
i don't know that because we only got the 10% E here
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Old 11-26-2008, 02:34 PM   #25
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What's wrong with ethanol in the yaris?
Why do they put it in there? They can keep it.
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Old 11-26-2008, 02:53 PM   #26
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Why do they put it in there? They can keep it.

Politics.....why else does anything get put into anything (politics and money) but my point is...there is no benefit really unless you can obtain the other fuel for equal cost. Of course, your perogative is fine but I was hoping you might be able to show me some benefits.
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Old 11-26-2008, 05:34 PM   #27
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please, make new thread about E instead of polluting my thread. Gotta keep it green right ?

:)
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Old 11-26-2008, 07:49 PM   #28
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Mobil 1 has changed their formula, which is why a bunch of people stopped using them. Nonetheless, it is still synthetic, which is better than dino-oil.
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Old 11-26-2008, 08:41 PM   #29
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i got a 1992 Corolla, I hardly use expensive oil like Amsoil or Purple. I only used the Full Synthetic that's either Mobil 1 or BOGO promotion at Advance auto part or anything that is Full Synthetic while it's on sale. The car is at 200K, hardly got any problems just rotate switch oil at 3k, keep up with the Maintenance and it's ok.
Using royal purple on my yaris now, i don't see any differences.
I think as long as you keep up with the maintence and use full sys, it's will be the same. It's a yaris.
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Old 11-27-2008, 08:52 AM   #30
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i got a 1992 Corolla, I hardly use expensive oil like Amsoil or Purple. I only used the Full Synthetic that's either Mobil 1 or BOGO promotion at Advance auto part or anything that is Full Synthetic while it's on sale. The car is at 200K, hardly got any problems just rotate switch oil at 3k, keep up with the Maintenance and it's ok.
Using royal purple on my yaris now, i don't see any differences.
I think as long as you keep up with the maintence and use full sys, it's will be the same. It's a yaris.

That's the way I see it.
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Old 11-27-2008, 10:51 AM   #31
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Mobil 1 has changed their formula, which is why a bunch of people stopped using them. Nonetheless, it is still synthetic, which is better than dino-oil.
No it is not MAybe only M1-EP and there is no confirmation on this. AND you DO NOT WANT A PAO synthetic for warm climate use - it has POOR lubricating ability - just good flow. NOT the tradeoff you want. And ALL ILSAC/API SM pec oils are marginal at best. You need a AECA A3/B3. Porsche pulled M1 from factory fill as it would NOT stay in grade and SM has reduced the wear additives to save a catalytic converter for 150K miles. Wow, a blown engine and good catalytic converter in 3 years? Screw this compromise - talk about Scylla et Charybdis GOOD oils are: ELF Excellium, FUCHs,Silkolene, MOTUL 300V. NOT M1, Pennziol, Valvoline or what a joke castrol ( BP) A FAKE synthetic that started all this: Gee, it;s OK to call a "mineral oil" a synthetic - screw Jon Q Pubic - he's a dumbass anyhow.

- Sonja's bro
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Old 11-28-2008, 08:35 AM   #32
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No it is not MAybe only M1-EP and there is no confirmation on this. AND you DO NOT WANT A PAO synthetic for warm climate use - it has POOR lubricating ability - just good flow. NOT the tradeoff you want. And ALL ILSAC/API SM pec oils are marginal at best. You need a AECA A3/B3. Porsche pulled M1 from factory fill as it would NOT stay in grade and SM has reduced the wear additives to save a catalytic converter for 150K miles. Wow, a blown engine and good catalytic converter in 3 years? Screw this compromise - talk about Scylla et Charybdis GOOD oils are: ELF Excellium, FUCHs,Silkolene, MOTUL 300V. NOT M1, Pennziol, Valvoline or what a joke castrol ( BP) A FAKE synthetic that started all this: Gee, it;s OK to call a "mineral oil" a synthetic - screw Jon Q Pubic - he's a dumbass anyhow.

- Sonja's bro
That's why I switched to Amsoil HP (AECA A5/B5) for less than I'd have to pay for Mobil1, RP, RedLine, LubroMoly, MOTUL, etc...and I'm not sure which or if any of them are rated A5/B5.

Yeah, it's just a Yaris, but it'll probably outlast anything that I've ever owned.
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Old 11-28-2008, 09:06 AM   #33
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That's why I switched to Amsoil HP (AECA A5/B5) for less than I'd have to pay for Mobil1, RP, RedLine, LubroMoly, MOTUL, etc...and I'm not sure which or if any of them are rated A5/B5.

Yeah, it's just a Yaris, but it'll probably outlast anything that I've ever owned.
1st - I have not been to Pep Boys - do they sell any synth amsoils there? Or just the Mineral group 2i and 3? my local garage has amsoil but only if they do OC and big $$ at that. Otherwize most (virtual) local motorsports retailers carry a couple good bransd of oil. Someone said LTB motorsports?
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Old 11-28-2008, 09:56 AM   #34
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1st - I have not been to Pep Boys - do they sell any synth amsoils there? Or just the Mineral group 2i and 3? my local garage has amsoil but only if they do OC and big $$ at that. Otherwize most (virtual) local motorsports retailers carry a couple good bransd of oil. Someone said LTB motorsports?
I just pick up the Amsoil at a warehouse that's on my way to work.
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Old 11-28-2008, 05:49 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by TheSilkySmooth View Post
No it is not MAybe only M1-EP and there is no confirmation on this. AND you DO NOT WANT A PAO synthetic for warm climate use - it has POOR lubricating ability - just good flow. NOT the tradeoff you want. And ALL ILSAC/API SM pec oils are marginal at best. You need a AECA A3/B3. Porsche pulled M1 from factory fill as it would NOT stay in grade and SM has reduced the wear additives to save a catalytic converter for 150K miles. Wow, a blown engine and good catalytic converter in 3 years? Screw this compromise - talk about Scylla et Charybdis GOOD oils are: ELF Excellium, FUCHs,Silkolene, MOTUL 300V. NOT M1, Pennziol, Valvoline or what a joke castrol ( BP) A FAKE synthetic that started all this: Gee, it;s OK to call a "mineral oil" a synthetic - screw Jon Q Pubic - he's a dumbass anyhow.

- Sonja's bro
Your claims have no bases in fact. None.

In addition, the thousands of UOA's with M1 and Pennziol Plat say you are dead wrong. The wear metals are super duper low, and often not much higher then AMSOIL, which is perhaps the best one can buy.

And NOBODY has ever had a blown engine using M1.

It is your type that propagates internet myths and urban legends...you turn your subjective opinions into "fact", and I just hope most of the readers of this thread see this.
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Old 11-28-2008, 06:33 PM   #36
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Your claims have no bases in fact. None.

In addition, the thousands of UOA's with M1 and Pennziol Plat say you are dead wrong. The wear metals are super duper low, and often not much higher then AMSOIL, which is perhaps the best one can buy.

And NOBODY has ever had a blown engine using M1.

It is your type that propagates internet myths and urban legends...you turn your subjective opinions into "fact", and I just hope most of the readers of this thread see this.
Oh, thats just what you did propagate myths with no factual information. EG: "NO one has ever blown a motor on M1" Just simple statistics will tell you this statement is WRONG and I personally know 3 people who junked their motors on m1. Thats why GM and Porsche ditched m1 as factory fill - since it works so freaking good. Blame the API and the Feds though, they are the ones who reduced/removed the PROVEN extreme pressure anti-seize additive package so cats would live 150K miles without clogging at the expense piston and cam wear. Just go talk to the mechanic who have blown motors laying outside the dealership about chewed up cams and pistons with scored and collapsed skirts. Subaru, Mitsi, Chevy have MAJOR problems with piston slap now - but good statistical data is "covered up" because the industry is trying to deal with the issue "quietly", If you dig enough you will find API powerpoints online thats show you whats going on. If you run current spec "emissions" SM oil in a classic engine it will be all done in a few thousand miles - check resto sites - the mechanics are frantic. Run it in a VW Audi Porsche and you void the warranty. Good stuff, huh?

And you are a Mobil rep too right? - the MAN ... the MAn in Brown?

Every runs their favorite team so nothing I say will change that. Live and learn the hard way guys.

sonjas bro
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