Transmission Fluid - My car is ruined - help

[jekqmb]

The New machines have no pressure on the tranny and would push the debris up on to the filter screen and clog it up, the old t-techs were junk and ruined trannys when they were flushed out due to pressure. The new Machines are an exchange......98-99% new fluid goes in and you can exchange the fluid all the way to 150k as long as there are no leaks from the tranny. Like i said alot of people get worried about flushes cause of the pressure on the tranny. That is from a T-Tech machine, also alot of new coolant machines are an exchange type unit, so there is not alot of pressure on the radiator.

[1stToyota]

Without pressure I'm wondering if most of the debris stays in the transmission pan, filter, torque convertor, etc...exchanging coolant in a dirty cooling system does little in removing rust build-up and scale, that takes actual flushing. I suspect the exchange process in transmissions are similar, probably get just as good results with pulling the plug on the transmission pan, refilling it and running engine, drain again and refill...fluid will look clean but filter and pan will still be full of debris.

I didn't know pressure was bad for the cooling system...most systems are designed to hold 15-18 lbs pressure.

[JimKellyfan]

I am about to flush mine and priced WS Toyota fluid out for my 2010. I got 6.40/qt, but will shop some more. It is more expensive.
.......For everyone with a dipstick tube......
If you can, get you a hose that is the same size as the trans cooler line.
Also get a cap, to cap off one side of cooler line.
(you can just get the hose if you cap off the one side with a bolt or something.
Go to Lowe's and get a clear graduated measure 5 gallon bucket.
Or, get a regular bucket and make a mark, it will be the 3 gallon line you want.
Go get 14 quarts of WS fluid, unless you have an 05 or older, I believe.
Open 12 of them, the other 2 are for top offs if needed, or next flush.
Pour in about 5 quarts, depending on how fast/efficient/dexterously skilled or not. (open more if you may be slow).
I overfill, yes overfill by 5 quarts, and have the other 7 ready to pour and open.
I have one side of my cooler line in my bucket, the other capped off.
I leave my funnel in place.
If you have a friend, use one, if not, leave your window down or door open or both.
Start er up, and start emptying the other 7 quarts in keeping an eye on your bucket, after also peaking and making sure capped section is not leaking.
Shut er down after 12 quarts out and 12 quarts in.
Put your cooler line back in place.
Start er back up, run through the gears and check the level.
It should be warmed up, yet not as hot (expanded as it could be).
Also, ensure all of this has been done on level ground.
Voila
Flushed and money saved.
If you can change your engine oil you can do this.
Another tip would be clothespin on hose in bucket or similar to make sure hose stays where you want it.
Most places will take your used oil for recycle.
Hope this helps someone.
Let me know any further iteration needed.
But, yeah, as far as any flush getting it all 100%, that won't happen, as won't particulate removal. But, most is better than some or none.
A cheaper get me by way, would be a drain and fill.
Unscrew the plug in the bottom of the pan, and measure that fluid.
Then pour new back in.
My wifes Camry drained out about 7.5 quarts, but I let it sit all day.
She doesn't have a dipstick, so I did hers that way.
But, too hers has a special procedure when doing that, if you are dipstick free, then make sure first.
Doing that, I will have to do it again sooner, hers every 35k, mine, about the same do to driving style.

[JimKellyfan]

On engine oils, I get whats on sale name brand, same weight.
That said, I do the same for the trannys in my life.
Right now, we 2 Toyotas, and they both take WS fluid.
Any other brand, as long as it equals or exceeds the standards, and that is way too much research to waste time on in my mind.
I worked the aftermarket as a tech and a manager, and successfully used it on other cars, the multi fluid.
If I were to buy my own garage, I would price the customer the OEM fluid (WS in this case and also the multi vehicle fluid).
I would recommend the OEM fluid in every case.
If the customer wants to take a chance, let them.
I would advise against it.
On the engine oil, more DIY people do that, so I would gather that is why it is more generalized.
One can find good sales, like last year, or the year before, I forget, when the oil companies had to scramble for the next upgrade, and clear the old oils out. (SF, SJ, SL, SM and so on).
If it were say a Dexron oil for the trans (my old Caprice was Dex 2 or 3), I was comfortable putting a higher numbered Dex in, like 4 or 5).
But, the WS is a specific weight at specific temps and I would use only that.
Hope this helps.

[JimKellyfan]

Coolant, I would just do drain and fill.
Make sure to get distilled water.
I would buy the pure Toyota antifreeze only, no sense in paying for their distilled water, it is cheaper in the grocery store.
Leave the cap on, as it will suck out the reservoir for you too.
If reservoir is stained, you can remove and clean it.
No flush kits, it is merely an alkaline, to counter the acidic effects.
If you really wanna flush, drain and fill with distilled water only, burp it and run 20 miles, then drain and fill again with a 50/50 mix or 60/40 if you wanna go all out.
Distilled water only so as to not conduct electricity and corrode your system faster. Our water pumps are bad enough on their own.

[Yesitisyaris]

I just drain & refill my tranny with ws fluid (2.75 L) every year and plan on replacing the filter next year

[Exiwolfman]

Originally Posted by ctrj

No, from what I understand, they put WS fluid in the manual tranny too. I will check with a tech today to confirm.

gear oil is used in 5 speed

[JimKellyfan]

I just flushed my WS fluid with fresh (capacity 7 qts) I used 8 qts, then topped off any spillage. What an amazing change. It shifted fine before, but I noticed it is now seamless. It shifts better. So, that is great. I bet it gets better fuel mileage now. I am at 71k, and assume nothing was done as history shows. I paid 6.17/qt. for stock WS fluid.

[jack black]

Originally Posted by JimKellyfan

I paid 6.17/qt. for stock WS fluid.

Where did you buy it if I may ask. My local dealers price it at $9+tax. Online shops have it at $7 but S&H kills the deal.

[JimKellyfan]

An update to that 3 gallon line on the DIY, I flushed only 2 gallons as the system only holds 7 qts (6.8 is spec, I believe on my 2010)...Then, I used another quart to account for the spillage, when confirming proper level after.

[birdman]

I just had a panic when I learned that the shop who drained and filled my automatic trans used Redline D6 ATF. Since some of the Toyota ATF WS remains in the system I was concerned that mixing these two brands would cause problems. I called up an old shop were I used to live and spoke with the owner who is a Toyota certified technician and he said these 2 formulas mixed together in these proportions are just fine because these formulas are similar enough chemically that there is no problem. That's a relief. For peace of mind I will insist on independent shops staying with Toyota recommended lubricants from now on.

[Hershey]

You should be fine with the D6 . It states replacement for the WS . Go to these for details . http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=115&pcid=9 and http://www.redlineoil.com/application.aspx .

[jack black]

Originally Posted by Hershey

You should be fine with the D6 . It states replacement for the WS .

D6 is is not an exact replacement for WS. It had no calcium additives whatsoever. Call Dave at Redline if you don't believe me.

[Pern]

Go purchase Toyota WS fluid plus one more court than your car will hold.
1. Drain the pan.
2. Refill the pan with exactly the same amount you drained.
3. Locate and remove the fluid return line from cooler to transmission.
3. Remove it and drain into graduated container.
4. Start the car, drain out the balance of the fluid as you add the new fluid.
5. Reconnect the return line, top off the fluid to proper level.
(As an added benifit you can also change the filter if the fluid is really dirty and burnt).
This will get most of the fluid out of the car cost effectively.