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04-14-2014, 09:40 AM | #1 |
Drives: 2008 Polar White LB Auto Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Metro Detroit
Posts: 1,238
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Which hand tools needed to replace shocks/struts?
It's been a long time since I've changed these things out and a while back I picked up a set of TRD suspension from a fantastic member here on this forum, it's finally thawed out in Michigan that it's time for it to be swapped in. At the current time, I only have hand tools available to work with and I can't recall all what I need to do the job of taking out the old suspension and putting the new ones in. The good news is that the springs are already on the TRD struts going in, so I don't need to mess with that stuff.
Another question is I do remember ages ago when I put in the rear suspension, when trying to tighten down the nuts with a wrench...the rod from the shock would just keep spinning, I had to have a friend help me out with an air gun to tighten it down. I'd imagine it's doable with hand tools though, any advice? Last question is, was there ever a definitive conclusion to the difference in the rear control arms about the upper and lower holes for the bolt to go into? Thanks in advance!
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I live my life a quarter pounder at a time. And for those 500 calories or more, I'm free. I need FRIES! Two of them. The big ones. Oh, and I need them tonight. You're lucky the double shot of BBQ sauce didn't blow the seam on your nugget box. There she is, 2 pounds of pure beef. My dad ate it in 9.0 seconds flat. Check it out, it's like this. If I lose, winner takes my happy meal. But if I win, I take the burger and the toy. To some people, that's more important. |
04-14-2014, 06:06 PM | #2 |
2ZR swap. DO IT! Ask how!
Drives: 09 Meteoric Metallic HB Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 2,333
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Tools:
I would recommend going to microimageonline and registering for an account so that you can access the repair manuals. |
04-14-2014, 06:08 PM | #3 |
Mr. 155 and climbing
Drives: Seriously Modded 07 Sedan Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: In The Hotbox
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Don't forget beer!
sent from my m-o-b-i-l-e
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Team Tiamat Racing on Facebook Youtube Channel: Team Tiamat Racing Class record holder in Land Speed @ 154.5mph for 1.5 mile and 145.5mph in the mile in the F (2.016 to 3.014 L), G (1.524 to 2.015 L), and H (1.016 to 1.523 L) classes. |
04-17-2014, 05:38 PM | #4 |
Drives: 2008 Polar White LB Auto Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Metro Detroit
Posts: 1,238
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Thanks for the tips everyone....do you have any extra advice on how to keep those rear shocks rod from spinning when you're trying to tighten down the nuts?
__________________
I live my life a quarter pounder at a time. And for those 500 calories or more, I'm free. I need FRIES! Two of them. The big ones. Oh, and I need them tonight. You're lucky the double shot of BBQ sauce didn't blow the seam on your nugget box. There she is, 2 pounds of pure beef. My dad ate it in 9.0 seconds flat. Check it out, it's like this. If I lose, winner takes my happy meal. But if I win, I take the burger and the toy. To some people, that's more important. |
04-17-2014, 05:47 PM | #5 |
toyota
Drives: 2007 Yaris RS Blazed Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: toronto, canada
Posts: 3,637
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This is the reason "17mm offset closed wrench " why i havent gone to tein stech...lol
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If my calculations are correct, when this baby hits eighty-eight miles per hour... you're gonna see some serious shit!!!!!! "Horsepower is how fast you hit the object. Torque is how far you move that object.." |
04-17-2014, 06:43 PM | #6 |
Why would u need an offset 17 just remove the wiper cowl and wiper motor 10 mm bolts takes five min then u can get at the strut nuts ....as for rear shocks with the old once just use vise grip's that is if ur replacing them but if not just take out lower bolt and spring comes right out .
Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk |
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04-18-2014, 07:42 AM | #7 |
2ZR swap. DO IT! Ask how!
Drives: 09 Meteoric Metallic HB Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 2,333
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If you're using the OEM nuts, there should be two on each side. You can hold the shock rod with a small adjustable wrench on the flats while you tighten the first nut. The second nut is a "jam" nut, so you just hold the first one with one wrench and tighten the second nut against the first. Make sure you get the nuts tightened down to the right distance from the end of the rod. If you don't, the rod will have extra play and will blow out the valves inside in no time flat. Don't ask me how I know that.
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04-23-2014, 08:34 AM | #8 |
Drives: Gray Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: NY
Posts: 68
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04-23-2014, 08:23 PM | #9 |
2ZR swap. DO IT! Ask how!
Drives: 09 Meteoric Metallic HB Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 2,333
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04-23-2014, 11:25 PM | #10 |
4 years of P90X!
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