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Old 08-01-2018, 11:43 PM   #1
Yamidan
 
Drives: Yaris YXR ‘05
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1NZ overheating

Hi all, I've been lurking for a while but not posted anything.
I bought an NCP91 Yaris 1.5 about 6 months ago and I've been having a recurring overheating problem. Just after I first got it it overheated to the point where the red coolant light came on and the motor stalled. The dealer I bought it off sent a truck and a loaner car, then came back to me and said because it's been on the lot for so long the coolant was low and the water pump was bad.
They replaced the water pump and thermostat, refilled the coolant and sent it back to me.

In the last 2 months driving around with the heater off, it'll go for about 30 minutes before the coolant temp gets to 95C and then starts to climb fast. I turn the heater on and blast the fan then the temp comes down to mid 80s and sits there.

I've checked the coolant and it's not using much (if any at all) and it stays a good colour. The oil looks good too. No froth or milk.

My partner took it out the other day as her car was blocked in and it was pouring with rain. She drove for about 40 minutes without the heater on but did not realise the temp climbing so when she got home while idling in the driveway the red coolant light came on again. She got out of the car and noticed steaming coolant spewing out of the overflow like a running tap.

Has anyone had similar experiences? At this stage I am suspect of the new water pump not being new, new thermostat stuck shut, radiator being blocked or worst case scenario the head gasket going out. Any advice?

Cheers
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Old 08-02-2018, 07:12 AM   #2
nortonfb
 
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Just a guess, the system needs bleeding. Most likely air bubble.
Bleed system, if that doesn't fix it pressure test for head gasket leak.
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Old 08-02-2018, 07:16 AM   #3
ex-x-fire
 
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Maybe the radiator fins are clogged with dirt & bugs.
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Old 08-02-2018, 07:21 AM   #4
tmontague
 
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I had a similar issue at the track and it was a bad aftermarket rad cap that went after about 3 years. My red coolant light never went on but my reservoir would be almost empty after a 45 min track session as the rad cap wasn't holding proper pressure so coolant would boil out. Put an oem cap on and never had an issue again despite track coolant temps at 222F

Also make sure no air is in the system, although driving around will typically take car of that in these cars
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Old 08-02-2018, 06:22 PM   #5
B.B._07
 
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Is the radiator fan cycling on and off once you reach operating temperature? Is the fan running continuously once the coolant temp starts rising?

If you suspect the new water pump take off the serpentine belt and spin it by hand to see if it spins freely, and check if the weep hole is leaking. Might also want to borrow a radiator pressure tester from an auto parts store (if available). You can rule out a stuck closed thermostat by taking the car on a 10 minute drive and checking (by feel) the temperature of the upper and lower radiator hoses. They should be the same temperature if the thermostat is working properly.
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Old 08-02-2018, 08:36 PM   #6
Yamidan
 
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Thanks for the replies crew,

Norton, I thought so too. I drained the coolant and refilled. Heater open, parked on an incline, running the engine for 20 minutes with the rad cap off and topping up as the level in the filler neck dropped.
The heater blows very hot when on max and it took a little over 3 litres so I assume there is no bubbles.

ex-x-fire, the rad, along with the rest of the engine bay is super clean. It could have a blockage internally restricting flow.

T-montague, I did suspect the rad cap, but it's the OEM unit and looks in a great condition. I bought a new unit anyway along with a new thermostat and water pump which I'll swap out on Saturday.

B.B._07, the rad fan turns on when the engine coolant temp sensor reads 90C. If the heater is off at that stage and I leave the engine running within 10 minutes there will be boiling coolant bubbling up in the reservoir. If I turn the heater on max then the temp drops quickly down to below 90c and the car has no more complaints. The water pump doesn't make any noises and seems to turn freely. The guy who replaced it says the propeller on the original unit had separated from the shaft. I suspect he glued it back on and refitted the unit calling it new.
The rad hoses is a tricky one. After 10 minutes the top hose still feels cool, and the bottom hose is barely warm. It gets hotter the closer I feel to the block. Could it be a breach in the head gasket through to the water jacket is pressurising the system and forcing the flow to stop or go in the wrong direction? I imagine that would damage the water pump quite quickly.

Thanks for all your replies, I appreciate the help.
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Old 08-02-2018, 09:20 PM   #7
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A head gasket is the last thing it would likely be on the Yaris unless it has a history of a severe over heat that warped the head.

You still have coolant flow going to the heater core so the question is why doesn't it seem to be flowing through the rad adequately?

Wp is a possibility, semi blocked/clogged rad is another.

Had the engine ever had one of those coolant dealers added to it?
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Old 08-03-2018, 01:16 AM   #8
Yamidan
 
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I added the head gasket to the list because of the 2 overheat/ red light events that stalled the motor. I don't have much experience with the 1nz (but plenty of experience with other motors and Toyo A series motors) so it's reassuring to hear the head gasket is unlikely. In the event a HG is blown I would junk the motor and swap it for a junkyard salvage as here they're about the same price.

Not sure what you mean by "Had the engine ever had one of those coolant dealers added to it?"

I've had the car for several months and got it with about 130K kms on the clock. It did come with a fairly complete service history which looked good but at the end of the day you never truly know what happened to the car before I got it.

On Saturday I'll swap out the WP and thermostat and give it all a good flush, then if it still over heats I'll replace the rad. After that it'll be a replacement motor I guess. At least they're light and cheap.
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Old 08-03-2018, 07:28 AM   #9
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Sorry, it was supposed to say "coolant sealer" those liquid seal-a-leak things that are harmful long term for your engine and other parts
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Old 08-04-2018, 02:45 AM   #10
Yamidan
 
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So, thermostat is good (tested out of the car), water pump seems good and turns freely and quietly by hand. Coolant level is good, no air bubbles seem present.
Driving between 70-100km/h after 10 minutes the coolant temp goes to 90c and starts climbing rapidly (1degree every 3-5 minutes). Then I turn the heater on full, cabin fan on full and the temp drops to 85-90c and sits there rock solid. The air is blowing “scorching desert wind” hot and after a 30 minute drive the top rad hose is still cold and soft to squeeze. Starting to smell like a blocked rad to me unless I’ve missed something?
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Old Yesterday, 02:49 AM   #11
Yamidan
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
Sorry, it was supposed to say "coolant sealer" those liquid seal-a-leak things that are harmful long term for your engine and other parts
You were right on. I got around to pulling the rad today and the top tank was almost fully sealed with a sparkly porridge like substance.
New rad went in and the car won’t go over 81c now with the AC on full and heater tap closed. Hopefully there’s not more of this crap in the galleries.
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Old Yesterday, 07:41 AM   #12
thebarber
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**Edit: i just saw the last post saying you got a new rad**

I'd get a spill free funnel kit and burp the system properly.

Put funnel on and fill halfway. Start car and idle it for 10-15min and watch bubbles leave system. Even squish upper rad hose on occasion to get air out.

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Old Yesterday, 11:12 AM   #13
tmontague
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yamidan View Post
You were right on. I got around to pulling the rad today and the top tank was almost fully sealed with a sparkly porridge like substance.
New rad went in and the car won’t go over 81c now with the AC on full and heater tap closed. Hopefully there’s not more of this crap in the galleries.
Glad to hear you got the problem sorted you should he good for the foreseen future, the rad tends to be the most narrow part of a cooling system so the block itself shouldn't be restricted due to that goop crap.

I have personally never found the 1nz to he hard to burn if you have the front jacked up, I just over fill the overflow reservoir when I'm re filling an empty system and after driving around a bit it will burp itself and pull from the overflow.

But as Barber stated, the funnel allows you to do it all in one shot in your driveway and is a convenient tool
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