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Old 11-02-2010, 12:25 PM   #73
Shinare
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Originally Posted by marcus View Post
lol..even new car can grind on reverse..you have to know a trick.. all you need to do is slap it on any forward gears before reverse..i use first or second gear then reverse and youll be grindless fro life unless ur synchro goes.
Wow, did not know this. Sounds like a great tip!
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Old 11-02-2010, 12:35 PM   #74
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Do this if you don't have a torque wrench . Take a medium to fine SHARPIE permanent magic marker with black ink and draw a line on the drain fill plugs and the tranny itself so they line up . Then write D.P. ( drain plug ) or F.P. ( filler plug ) on the plug so when you put them back in you'll be using the same plug so they will line up . Can tighten it just a bit more beyond the mark on the tranny , if needed .
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Old 11-02-2010, 12:49 PM   #75
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Went out to take the pic for my avatar just now and drove to a different parking place in the sun. I went from driving around in first to putting it into reverse to back into the parking place. Slight grind in the gear as I placed it into reverse. *shrug* hopefully the gear oil change will help.
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Old 11-02-2010, 01:54 PM   #76
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Originally Posted by jamal1984 View Post
i'm on Royal Purple now, and my gears still grind somehow, reverse still stuck on cold morning, first gear still stiff, maybe Redline next time and compare.
inside the engine bay on ur tranny check ur linkages and grease/oil where felt needed. my 5th and reverse were stiff and toyota did this for me now all gears go with with ease
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Old 11-28-2010, 04:23 PM   #77
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Just wanted to say thanks OP for posting this, I am doing a ton of 60k maintenance on my car, new plugs, new brake pads, and now thanks to you i have new tranny oil :-) much obliged!
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Old 02-26-2011, 01:20 PM   #78
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Another thanks to the OP for this very helpful thread. I just passed 100,000 miles on my '07 and even though the dealer said that the transmission oil didn't need to be changed, I went ahead and bought some MT-90 from amazon.com and changed it today in addition to the coolant. Many thanks for this forum.
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Old 03-15-2011, 11:01 PM   #79
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Great thread and thx for the great pic's
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Old 04-06-2011, 08:05 PM   #80
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I just changed my trans fluid today at 55,400 miles, Tranny fluid looked as good as new when coming out. No metal flake look to it. Installed 75w-90 Royal Purple and went for a drive. Well don't waste your 30 bucks on this oil. My car did shift better. On cold days before it would be stiff or hard to get into gear down shifting to second and to first. It is better, but not as good as I was hoping. In 5,000 miles when I change my oil I will be going to MT-90 and will update you guys on how that performs.
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Old 04-07-2011, 12:56 AM   #81
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Big difference , when cold shifting and no clunking into reverse . After the change , take it out for a spin and work through all the gears , including reverse . Not long after you'll be in for a smooth transition .

Last edited by Hershey; 10-01-2011 at 11:44 PM.
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Old 04-07-2011, 06:42 PM   #82
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drove 70 miles round trip from home to work than back. Still not as impressed as what i figured it will be. like I said I will change it again at 60,000 and try red line. When I first took off this morning it was about 40* out. It did shift amazing when the car was cold. But after about 10 miles it felt almost as if it was the old fluid. Oh well. It would be nice if it got better after a few more miles. Time will tell.
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Last edited by ecc_33; 04-07-2011 at 08:44 PM.
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Old 04-09-2011, 07:05 AM   #83
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Old 04-26-2011, 11:34 AM   #84
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Originally Posted by Shroomster View Post
just to clarify for those of us with auto transmissions....what you all are doing is just draining and filling the trans pan.

what supmet stated was $250 was probably a fluid exchange (flush and fill)

which takes all the fluid out including that in the torque converter.
What about the manual transmissions? is there more oil left in the transmission when we drain and fill? This one guy was trying to sell me a $200 transmission fluid flush and fill.

Does anyone know?
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Old 07-09-2011, 09:28 PM   #85
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Brief necro, but wanted to thank the OP for the informative DIY guide. Drained and filled my RS 5MT with Redline MT-90 today and even after only a dozen km of testing, it feels great. Shifts are smoother than on the stock gear oil, and the entire process only took an hour or so.

For those with Tanabe DF-210's installed you can reach both the drain and fill plugs without jacking the car, but it's pretty cramped. I did have to loosen the under-air dam shroud to get good access to the bolts.

Interestingly, I loosened the filler bolt with an air tool and, not knowing that the bolt only had about 3/4" of thread on it, took the entire thing off in one swift go. The result was more than a cup of gear oil spilling out. The two quarts I added after the drain got me right to the proper fill (i.e. right at the bottom of filler plug), but it makes me wonder how I got so much oil in there before.

tl;dr, Redline MT-90 is great so far, process was simple and cheap for DIY, lowered cars can be refilled without jacking, though it is more difficult.
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Old 07-13-2011, 07:33 PM   #86
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Yes Thanks OP!
Redline MT-90 is the BEST! GL-4 all the way!
Just did another Transmission fluid change.
I found it easier to remove the entire air box to gain access to the fill plug from the top with a funnel and tube.
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Old 07-14-2011, 07:05 AM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hershey View Post
Do this if you don't have a torque wrench . Take a medium to fine SHARPIE permanent magic marker with black ink and draw a line on the drain fill plugs and the tranny itself so they line up . Then write D.P. ( drain plug ) or F.P. ( filler plug ) on the plug so when you put them back in you'll be using the same plug so they will line up . Can tighten it just a bit more beyond the mark on the tranny , if needed .
Hmm interesting thing to do. But would it work if you changed the sealing washer? (also unecessary)

Torque wrench complete overkill for something like this however. Manual says something like "Torque the oil filter with a torque wrench. If you dont have one take it to your dealer for proper torque."

Just intimidating the public Im afraid. The bastards. Actually torqueing the OF to their spec will prolly result in it being nearly impossible to remove IME.
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Old 07-17-2011, 01:05 PM   #88
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Originally Posted by yaris2010RS View Post
this is gonna seem like a stupid question but im thinking of changing my tranny oil..... its a 2010 and it only has 31,xxx km on it..... im jsut sick of the the grinding into reverse and i do drive fairly hard and feel a better quality oil would benifit. what do u think? is it worth it? i was thinking either royal purple or redline.
reverse gear does not have a synchro. This is pretty common on cheaper cars.

I changed the gear lube in my 07 sedan at 100k with mt90. The original fluid looked as good as new...
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Old 09-03-2011, 12:04 AM   #89
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Great info. But that only drains 1 3/4 qts. of fluid and there is 4.9 qts. so how do you get the rest out?
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Old 09-08-2011, 09:57 PM   #90
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Thank you very much for this how to thread sir! Just changed my fluid a few minutes ago and it worked great!
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