2ZR Turbo Yaris

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by myfirstyota

Do you not have 94 at petro Canada out that way?
Used to be Sunoco but petro has it at many stations here in Ontario.

No such luck here. We only have 91. Only you, Alberta and Quebec get 94 from Petro-Can.

[06YarisRS]

Wideband AFR and Boost gauges

I negotiated a decent deal with Prosport. They gave me about $50.00 off.

Unfortunately, this means that I have to redo my gauge mounting. I have another driver's side upper glove box cover from the original dash in my '06. Fortunately, it was about the only part of the dash cover that is pretty much blemish free. If I had only kept each gauge about 1/2 cm closed to each other, I would have been able to add these two new gauges.


I had to get these gauges as torque's response times are way too slow.

[06YarisRS]

Exhaust solution

I wasn't willing to gamble on another glasspack or chambered muffler for noise reduction, so I picked up a Thrush turbo muffler. I've read that the highest possible flowing muffler is what's wanted, but this 2.5" inlet/outlet turbo muffler is used on good sized V8s (often on dual exhaust and well over 350 cu.in engines), so I'm positive that it will be more than adequate for my needs. I now have three exhaust tips to sell, lol, and I will be buying the shortest 3" - 3.5" double-walled tip I can find on eBay. For now I will stick with a single tip, but down the road, I may upgrade to two tips. One thing I do like about the inlet and outlet placements of this muffler, is that I can get the tip much closer to the passenger side. Honestly, as nice as the Megan was, I didn't like the placement of the tip, which was approaching the center of the bumper.

This isn't the ideal exhaust situation from an aesthetics point of view and it's and aluminized muffler, not stainless steel. The car isn't driven in the winter, and stored inside the rest of the time, but the minute it starts showing any corrosion, it will be painted flat black. I may do that now anyway.

My neighbour is going to weld my muffler on tomorrow and when my tip arrives, I'll have him weld that on too.







Here is approximately what it will look like:



Alternative exhaust tip look More GIMP image manipulation while I wait for my new tip to arrive and wait to get my muffler welded on. Whatd'ya guys think about recessing the exhaust tip into the bumper cover?

[myfirstyota]

If you're able to cut a clean line in the plastic, I'd go for it.
It's the little touches like that that I personally like. Something 99% of people won't notice. But if the 1% notice, it's worth it.

[WeeYari]

Careful with that. I've seen a couple notching attempts done for center exit mods and they've looked like yak. The problem is manufactured notches have a buildup, or contour, of material around the opening which gives them a proper look. An owner cut notch just looks like an owner cut notch if you know what I mean.

[06YarisRS]

Yeah, I really like the 'idea' of the notch but was looking at things more closely and decided it wasn't a risk I wanted to take. Maybe if I go for the dual tip look down the road, I'll remove the rear bumper and properly build some notches with curved plastic and bondo for the recess; mould some nice cutouts, prime, spray and clear the bumper. However, for now, I just mounted the muffler as per the original pic. We supported the muffler with a jackstand and got it perfectly positioned so the tip I got will just barely touch the bumper. The only short 2.5" tip that I found that will work for me is 4" at the outlet. It should look good. It's due to arrive Friday, so when it's mounted, I'll post a pic.

Man, does the exhaust sound freakin' amazing now. The turbo muffler is deep and smooth at idle but sounds spectacular at 5500 rpm, and, zero drone at highway speeds.

[06YarisRS]

Since Torque failed me in the A/FR and boost monitoring departments (AFR response times are way too slow and it won't show anything over vacuum), I'm having to completely redo my gauge setup. As mentioned, fortunately I had another driver's upper glove box cover in mint condition. My wife and kids are away for a few days, so I decided to be bad and do this on our kitchen table.

It looks very dirty and messy now, but will looked great when I'm done, fingers crossed. The AFR gauge is from a different series of Prosport gauges (the Premium Series) so there are differences. The ring color is a little darker and the gauge is taller. However, I think it will look great. My rationalization is that it's the most important gauge, so it will be a little more 'pronounced'. Then the other gauges (two on each side of the AFR gauge) will be symetrical. The face size, lettering and lighting color is precisely the same as all the other gauges.

My setup will be (from left to right): Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, AFR, Boost and Trans Temp.

Below is a pic in its current state. The gauges fit great and the gauge cups completely cover the holes. Each of the cups for the new gauges (AFR and Boost) will need to be profiled to fit the curvature of the glovebox, but I'm optimistic that I can get the to match seemlessly as the other 3 already installed gauges do.

Unfortunately, this is a LOT of work as the A-pillars and complete dash cover has to come off to attach the new glovebox cover. Plus, all of my wiring will have to be lengthened to move the existing gauges. Wiring and tubing has to be run for the AFR and boost and I'll have to drill a hole in the tunnel for the AFR O2 sensor wiring.



Yesterday, after a conversation with a gent at Booslang Manufacturing (the outfit that makes the Plug n' Play harnesses), I picked up a few 2.2K Ohm resistors. They put these in many of their Toyota harnesses on the crank and cam signal wires to combat noise that can cause studdering and possible idle problems associated with dirty signals and the AEM F/IC's sensitivity to such. Oddly enough I drove the car quite a bit today and neither would it studder (I have been manipulating the fuel table), nor would it stall or even buck at idle. I haven't installed the resistors yet. Maybe my ECU is starting to make its own adjustments.

Resistors

[Leegamer]

Gauge setup is going to be really cool, can't wait to see the finished product

[06YarisRS]

Gauges continued

I still have a lot of work to do to contour, level and angle the gauge cups, but this should give a sense of the final look.

[Leegamer]

I really dig that. Don't take this the wrong way, but it reminds me of a boat dash, but in a good way.

[myfirstyota]

I've had this idea but with a smart phone and the torque app. But if it's not fast enough, I may just have to 'copy' your idea.
Looks great!

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by Leegamer

I really dig that. Don't take this the wrong way, but it reminds me of a boat dash, but in a good way.

Haha, come to think of it, it does look like a boat dash. Honestly, I'm not that fond of the overall look. Because of the design of the backside of the cover, I had to mount the gauges a little to the left. As such, they are not exactly lined up from the driver's perspective. I have a bit of leeway and may try to shift them all right a bit. Pics in next post.

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by myfirstyota

I've had this idea but with a smart phone and the torque app. But if it's not fast enough, I may just have to 'copy' your idea.
Looks great!

Yeah, I was very disappointed that Torque was useless for boost and AFR. I tried reducing the number of gauges - actually at one point down to just boost and AFR - and enabled fast communication. It was still useless.

[06YarisRS]

5 Gauges cont'

Not thrilled with the look, but at least I will be able to accurately monitor all necessary parameters.

Just before install into dash



Fortunately, I didn't have to completely remove the dash cover. I could lift it enough to get at the screws behind.



Swapping springs over



Just a few pieces left to install: A pillars, center console etc. As mentioned in another post, I has to mount the gauges slightly left of center to get them all in. The back of the cover has an outward curve close to the center console that limits gauge placement somewhat. It would have placed the gauge at an odd angle. I have to crane my neck slightly to the right to see my oil temp gauge on the far left, but oil pressure, AFR and boost are prefectly in line. I get a weird sensation that I'm being stared at by large spider eyes.

[WeeYari]

Looks pretty darn good. Your Dremel just earned its keep.

[ern-diz]

Originally Posted by WeeYari

Looks pretty darn good. Your Dremel just earned its keep.

^^^I was going to say.

Fine work.

[06YarisRS]

Oh yeah! I picked up that dremel at a yard sale for $10.00 and it has been absolutely invaluable throughout this entire turbo project.

I'm glad you guys like the look. I'm sure it will grow on me once they're powered and lit up.

Tomorrow is the fun part - wiring that bloody AFR gauge. It's quite complicated with 4 harnesses, obviously the sensor and a control module. The boost gauge will be a snap as I'm tapping the vacuum line that feeds the F/IC MAF sensor which is behind the dash a foot or two away.

[06YarisRS]

Gauges working

Just a few small details to finish up.

Hole drilled for wideband sensor. I had an old rear windshield wiper rubber grommet that worked great for the wideband sensor harness. Ill just pop it back out and apply a little rtv and smush it back in after the paint is fully cured. I painted the bare metal with primer and silver paint.



Running the two harnesses for the AFR gauge and the tubing for the boost gauge.



Harnesses and wideband control module. I have yet to permanently mount that. Getting crowded back there behind the glove box.



Beginning stages or wiring and 're-wiring'.



Day mode. The pics look horrendous. The gauges look some much more crisp, bright and uniform than my cell phone would have one believe. I still have to remove the clear plastic protectors on the gauges. Interestingly, the AFR gauge shows the same approximate readings that torque does at idle but it is so much faster responding, so much so that torque completely misses the subtle variations. I haven't driven it yet but I expect the differences between Torque and the wideband gauge will be significant.



I have to rotate a couple gauges to properly align them yet. Again the pics don't do the gauges justice. I'm sure the flash doesn't help. When I take pics without the flash, they come out very grainy.