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Old 02-21-2017, 10:28 AM   #19
Corbeaubleu
 
Drives: 2005 Echo RS HB, 1996 VFR750,
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So is the harness just a sub assembly of the stock harness? If so, seems like with a set of appropriate connectors we could come up with an affordable DIY install kit...
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Old 02-21-2017, 10:32 AM   #20
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Wouldn't the Corolla ECU and MAF work?
And what about the power steering pump, the Yaris one was a bolt on?
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Old 02-21-2017, 10:45 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corbeaubleu View Post
So is the harness just a sub assembly of the stock harness? If so, seems like with a set of appropriate connectors we could come up with an affordable DIY install kit...
The engine bay has two separate harnesses: one that just goes to the engine and gearbox, and one that goes to the lights, wipers, ABS sensors, etc. You only need the engine harness for the swap. The xD is almost 100% pin-to-pin compatible on all connectors. The Corolla/Matrix requires a bit of rework. And "affordable" has different meaning to a lot of people. =P

Quote:
Originally Posted by Corbeaubleu View Post
Wouldn't the Corolla ECU and MAF work?
And what about the power steering pump, the Yaris one was a bolt on?
Until someone figures out how to (easily) reprogram the immobilizer to a new ECU (and vice versa) we're limited to using USA xD ECUs. The Corolla might work if you can get the keys, transponder ECM and the ECU from a single vehicle. Even then, no guarantees that all the plugs would be wired correctly, or would even have the signals/wires available.

The 2nd gen Yaris has electronic power assist. No pump and hoses needed. =)
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Old 02-21-2017, 12:38 PM   #22
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Yup, seems like a bit of work and parts, however used harness and ECU from the scrapyard aren't cheap either!
I forgot about the electric power assist, thats one thing I didn't like about my wife's Yaris: seemed twitchy.
I'm looking to do this swap into a 2005 Echo.
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Old 02-21-2017, 01:18 PM   #23
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I'm looking to do this swap into a 2005 Echo.
The reason this is so easy with the 2nd gen Yaris is because it's the same lower unibody as the xD. The 1st gen Yaris (Echo) is probably very different, and will require some serious research into parts compatibility.
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Old 02-21-2017, 01:38 PM   #24
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Looking at Montagues first engine bay photo, the 1NZ seems to have the same clearance to the sub frame as on the Echo. I'd need a dimension from bell housing to crankshaft pulley to know for sure.
Right now, I've got reservations about the harnesses: the Echo doesnt have the same throttle body as the Yaris, so what else is different? Do we have pin code charts on this site?
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Old 02-21-2017, 01:40 PM   #25
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I really want to try to make this work: the Echo weighs in at 2062 pounds!
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Old 02-21-2017, 01:56 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corbeaubleu View Post
Looking at Montagues first engine bay photo, the 1NZ seems to have the same clearance to the sub frame as on the Echo. I'd need a dimension from bell housing to crankshaft pulley to know for sure.
Right now, I've got reservations about the harnesses: the Echo doesnt have the same throttle body as the Yaris, so what else is different? Do we have pin code charts on this site?
Start your own thread on this as it is its own standalone subject. OP does not need this pollution in his build thread.

Moderators should pull all the posts relevant to an Echo swap out and establish a thread for you.
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Old 02-21-2017, 02:09 PM   #27
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Dac!
My apologies to all!
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Old 02-21-2017, 02:11 PM   #28
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Moderators should pull all the posts relevant to an Echo swap out and establish a thread for you.
Ha, good one.
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Old 02-21-2017, 02:50 PM   #29
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Final Day - Complete!

Alright, I'm finally almost back to 100% health and so is the Vios. I currently have it fully put together in my driveway with a vacuum pump and a/c manifold gauges hooked up to it. If it holds vacuum I'll be filling it with 12 ounces of r134a and I'll have the a/c working by this evening.



The car has not had any issues since my last post and has always started up without any hesitation and never thrown any CEL's. I drove it to Zorro Muffler this morning since I didn't want to drive further to Budget exhaust where I was referred (by my mechanic) due to having no exhaust and risking a large ticket. I had ringing ears just after the 6km drive to Zorro. I was referred to them by my father in law and they had good reviews online about them.

They aren't the cheapest but they are all good guys well into their 50's and very knowledgeable. I had them put a proper fitting flange on my mid pipe and fix the small piece that had the single cat on it, since that piece was still the oem diameter. Now the whole exhaust is 2.25" and has a proper flange. Cost $208 out the door. Sound is slightly deeper than the 1nz but nothing hugely different.

I only gave it 50% throttle as I needed to top of the coolant and check for leaks until I go buck wild on it. My first impression just mildly driving around town is mainly that it makes the car feel like it's 700lbs lighter. Lighter touches on the throttle are needed to make the car go and it seems smoother then the 1nz (if that's even a thing). The car idles no problems and has had no hiccups as of yet.

The new Luk Corolla clutch is much nicer than the stock Yaris clutch. Makes driving much more enjoyable due to its quicker engagement and lighter/smoother pedal feel.

I have to figure out where and how I'm going to mount my oil catch can (any ideas are welcomed), I am going to add a second can from my 1nz engine just to improve its effectiveness as it is a diy can. That said, the single can has already grabbed a little oil and triple the amount of water so it's definitely doing something.





in the second pic above you can see what vacuum line I used for my vacuum gauge. I originally had it hooked up down stream from the evap purge valve so it wasn't showing proper vacuum. Once I put it right before the manifold it started working like it should.

The only gauge I currently don't have in use is my oil temp sensor (pressure works fine). The sensor won't fit in my adapter so I need to find some sort of 90 degree extension so it clears the passenger side crach bar and fits inside.

Here is a picture of how I powered my MAF to 12V ign. It's the exact same way Cranky did it and works excellent and is clean once the fuse cover is back on.



I also decided to purchase the xd coolant filler neck and hoses so it looked clean and I didn't have to play around with making the 1nz one's work (it is possible just more work). The xd filler neck bolts into two female threads on the yaris radiator. They will need to be tapped due to the rust they'll have. I used an M6x1.00 tap and 10mm bolts I had lying around from work I did on the Yaris a couple years ago.



I'm going to be hooking up my techstream to it and re writing my VIN to the ecu to aid in passing e test in Ontario. I don't have one until 2 years from now.

Does anyone know if the e test (obd check only) will show the type of car that the ECU stores or just the VIN #?

I'll post back once I do some fun runs at WOT on this bad boy. I'm sort of in shock right now with how well/easy this swap went. Like others have stated, the toughest part is finding everything you need. I guess I'm used to working on old rusted neglected cars and wrenching on mine is a dream when every bolt in antiseized and coated in a film of oil.

Oh I forgot to mention. The bottom of the airbox is cut on the front and driver side and the original passenger side hole is blocked. I have plastic 3 inch ducting coming from the drivers side fog light shroud feeding air into the bottom of the box. I also have the charcoal filter cut out. Althought not the same as a CAI, I avoid any water issues and it gives a nice sound.
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Last edited by tmontague; 02-21-2017 at 03:10 PM.
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Old 02-21-2017, 02:58 PM   #30
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Clean. Congrats.

Very hard to believe this was done in just over 2 days, solo! Be proud!
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Old 02-21-2017, 03:31 PM   #31
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Clean. Congrats.

Very hard to believe this was done in just over 2 days, solo! Be proud!
+1

Time to update that forum signature and garage!
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Old 02-23-2017, 06:41 PM   #32
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Something new I've noticed with the 2zr is that it is an extremely smooth engine. I don't know if this is due to be it being a newer engine than the 1nz or if it is just a more refined engine but when you take it to redline there is no excess noise and movement like you have with the 1nz. Even when starting the engine it is quieter and moves less.

I'm off school this week so i haven't driven it very much as I don't like taking it for short trips and usually take the Vibe. I would have taken it out today for a drive since it was a crazy nice and warm sunny day but I knew if I went out to have some fun I would've worn my winter tires right down so I decided to keep it parked.

I did a few red lines pulls getting on and off the highway a couple days ago starting in second gear. What I noticed the most is that I get to speed much faster then I am used to. I look down expecting to be at 100km/h and I'm already at 120 or expecting to be at 80 and being over 100.

The 2zr also pulls hard right to redline unlike the 1nz which falls flat on its face above 5500 rpm. The power band on the 2zr is much more improved. What this means for drivability is that when taken to redline the 2zr "pushes" the car right into the next shift so you're always at top power. Whereas the 1nz "bucks" a lot due to going in an out of the optimal power, the 2zr stays right in it. This leads to much smoother fast shifts when you are red line shifting.

As a side, I've read reports online and if you miss a shift the 2zr is happy to spit it's rockers out but usually leaves the engine undamaged. I'm not sure what will happen with the 1nz but it would likely get damaged.

Now time to change the signature..

edit: someone let me know how to make my signature image smaller...its a biiiit big
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Old 02-24-2017, 10:20 AM   #33
CrankyOldMan
2ZR swap. DO IT! Ask how!
 
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edit: someone let me know how to make my signature image smaller...its a biiiit big
Step 1: Open Paint.
Step 2: ???
Step 3: Profit!

Like this?
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Old 02-24-2017, 02:33 PM   #34
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Thanks Cranky, computers aren't my strong suit
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Old 02-24-2017, 02:49 PM   #35
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I started out today with the plan to add my 1nz oil catch can inline with the new one I already ave on my 2zr. This ended up working out perfectly and I even found a nice place to securely and somewhat cleanly zip tie it to





now no rubbing and it is accessible when I need to empty the oil.

When I started the car this morning I noticed I had a CEL. Now I knew that the last ready check for the ecu was the EVAP system so I wasn't surprised when the code was a p0456 which is "EVAP control system leak detected a small leak". I had used a new non oem hose to run from the EVAP purge solenoid to the firewall EVAP line. This hose wasn't as snug as it should've been and the oem clamp wasn't strong enough to make a tight seal on it. I ended up taking one of the 2zr oem hoses and trimming it and using that instead. It was a much tighter fit and using silicone spray went on without an issue.

As a side if you are doing this swap, use silicone spray on any hose you are installing back on the engine or car. it will make removing them years down the road much easier and enjoyable, especially since they'll be in a tight cramped engine bay and ont easily accessible.

I went to my local Home Hardware and found a 45 degreen 1/8 NPT fitting with an extension. This will allow me to finally properly fit my oil temp sensor as it is too long to fit into the adapter I bought for the oil pressure sender.



Here you can see the large sensor (thing with yellow on it) and just below that you can see a 1/8 npt plug that i used to plug the hole meant for the temp sensor. The sensor wouldn't install since it won't go all of the way in due to clearance issue so it cannot thread.

Toyota engine blocks and oem oil pressure switches are 1/8 BSPT, and therefor you cannot just screw in any 1/8 npt fitting or you will have a leak and mess up the threads. What I did was buy an adapter that has a male 1/8 BSPT thread to screw into the 2zr block. It also has 1 female 1/8 BSPT port on it for the oem pressure switch. It also has two 1/8 NPT ports on it for my aftermarket oil pressure and temp gauges. This works fine but I needed a 45 degree adapter with extender so that the oil temp sensor would fit. I will hopefully install that tonight.

Becuase the 2zr uses an oil cartridge instead of a regular spin on type oil filter, I could not just use my sandwich plate to tap the oil sensors like I did with the 1nz. This means that my oil temps may not be very accurate, but I'll see once I install it.

As of now the oil pressure is much lower in the 2zr than the 1nz. Instead of being around 60-80 psi in the 1nz, it is around 40-60 psi in the 2zr. If you do install after market gauges make sure the sensor have seprate ground wires running form them. I had originally spliced them into one another and had inaccurate readings.
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Old 02-24-2017, 03:17 PM   #36
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An amazing piece of work. Kudos!

Sent from my phone with Tapatalk. Please excuse any typpos.
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