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Old 12-06-2013, 09:07 AM   #1
shangapol
 
Drives: Yaris Sedan
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Question Throttle Body Cleaning?

Hello Folks,

Can someone explain how to clean the throttle body Yaris Sedan 2007 (1NZFE), because I have to clean this part of my car. My idle rpm are too low and I know that doing this can be fixed.

Please Help me with this people...

Thanks to everyone... Merry X-Mas!!
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Old 12-06-2013, 10:26 AM   #2
CTScott
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Remove the rubber tube from the intake.

Once you do that you can clean the outside of the butterfly and the area around it.

Then, turn the ignition to on (but do not start the engine). Either have someone press and hold the gas pedal or wedge something between the seat and the pedal to keep it fully pressed.

With the pedal pressed the butterfly stays open, so you can then clean the edges of it and the area where it seats. I use throttle body cleanser on a rag and also cotton swabs sprayed with it for the harder to reach areas.

Alternately you can remove the entire throttle body assembly to more easily reach the back side, but I find that doing it in place works sufficiently.
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Old 12-06-2013, 02:29 PM   #3
shangapol
 
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Again thanks CTScott... Thanks a lot.

Ps: Can you or someone send me picture of the TB?, thanks again...
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Old 12-06-2013, 03:13 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shangapol View Post
Again thanks CTScott... Thanks a lot.

Ps: Can you or someone send me picture of the TB?, thanks again...

This is what it looks like with the intake tube disconnected:
Throttle body.jpg
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Old 12-07-2013, 03:16 PM   #5
esse10
 
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rpm higher

Quote:
Originally Posted by shangapol View Post
Hello Folks,

Can someone explain how to clean the throttle body Yaris Sedan 2007 (1NZFE), because I have to clean this part of my car. My idle rpm are too low and I know that doing this can be fixed.

Please Help me with this people...

Thanks to everyone... Merry X-Mas!!
Are you saying that by cleaning the throttle body valve it will bring up your idle RPM? Never heard that one before.......

I always remove the throttle valve complete off for better cleaning, well on my other two vehicles I did I have yet to clean the yaris but am sure will in about another 50-60k miles
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Old 12-11-2013, 10:12 AM   #6
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The carbon buildup can make the throttle plate sticky, and also misweighted. I do what CTScott does, and also use an old toothbrush to reach the hard to reach areas. I also give a couple extra shots down the intake. Caution, you may have to clear the misfire code if you spray too much. No big deal really. If you buy a cheap scan tool to clear or read your codes is a good thing. I also do a follow up and do the drip style injection service at least every 25k. One can also go all out and get the direct injection cleaning too. the drip styles usually have 2 or more cans, and one for the tank. I like Everwear products, but the same maker uses many labels. Can be found online readily and sold in bigger bulks. The drip style or direct injection cleaning, not only you would clean the throttle plates of carbon build up, but the valves, pistons and internals. Not 100%, but better than not doing it. I have only seen problems caused when ignored and over 100k and having never been done. (not cleaning throttle plate) But, the AMRA states that the automotive world can do an injection service as it does serve a benefit to the consumer having done so and can be legitimately be recommended every 14-17k miles. Garages should recommend every 15k, but realistically, depends on many factors and can vary, but I have seen 25k as sufficient in my neck of the woods.
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TRD rear sway bar, 4 GT Spec bars including: front strut brace 2 point, 4 point ladder brace, mid chassis brace and rear lower tie brace, rear hitch, [B]
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Old 12-14-2013, 09:54 AM   #7
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I just did the procedure above, and now I have the car idle at 1,500 rpms and the check engine light on, and did not used to much trottle body cleaning spray.


What do you people recommend.
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Old 12-14-2013, 11:06 AM   #8
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Find out what code it is (AZ/ADV) can pull it for free, or you can buy a 50 dollar code puller, suggest one like I have (cheap/good) Innova Equus (spelling?) I have the Craftsman logo on mine, but they come with many logos, but look the same. They have a 50 dollar one, me, I have the 300 dollar one I got on sale for 200 one year. It does OBD I, OBD II and a handful of other older funky plugs as well.
You're idle seems high, do you have the linkage right ?
Is there a surging to the idle (vacuum leak if so) ?
I don't know if you can upload a video or not, I have trouble with pics, myself, uploading.
Make sure everything is plugged in.
Also, a good rule of thumb, most connectors are only meant to be pulled apart so many times, and can eventually lead to poor connections, or arcing at the connectors and eventual corrosion. That said, I would recommend and every now and then application to anything unplugged, dielectric grease application.
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2010 Yaris sedan, TRD CAT back (sport muffler only, really), OBX header (relocated front AF sensor to front pipe), OBX throttle plate spacer, K&N filter (in stock air box-for now), TRD struts and shocks, Mexico Rough Road Springs x 4, new Yota sway bar links front, slotted/drilled rotors and Maxx brakes front, Valvoline synthetic brake fluid, 3M undercoated, 16" Konig Feathers Michelin Pilot Sport AS 3 + Tires
TRD rear sway bar, 4 GT Spec bars including: front strut brace 2 point, 4 point ladder brace, mid chassis brace and rear lower tie brace, rear hitch, [B]
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Old 12-14-2013, 11:08 AM   #9
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Too, anytime someone does a thing on a vehicle, then has an issue after, always look at what was just done and look at all things touched, as that will typically lead to an aha moment and find the loose connector, vacuum hose or what have you.
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2010 Yaris sedan, TRD CAT back (sport muffler only, really), OBX header (relocated front AF sensor to front pipe), OBX throttle plate spacer, K&N filter (in stock air box-for now), TRD struts and shocks, Mexico Rough Road Springs x 4, new Yota sway bar links front, slotted/drilled rotors and Maxx brakes front, Valvoline synthetic brake fluid, 3M undercoated, 16" Konig Feathers Michelin Pilot Sport AS 3 + Tires
TRD rear sway bar, 4 GT Spec bars including: front strut brace 2 point, 4 point ladder brace, mid chassis brace and rear lower tie brace, rear hitch, [B]
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Old 12-14-2013, 11:08 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaimico View Post
I just did the procedure above, and now I have the car idle at 1,500 rpms and the check engine light on, and did not used to much trottle body cleaning spray.


What do you people recommend.
Did you completely reassemble it before starting the car? Verify that everything is properly back in its place, and then disconnect the negative battery terminal for a minute to clear the CEL and reset the ECM.
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Old 12-14-2013, 11:30 AM   #11
esse10
 
Drives: 2009 yaris 2 door
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clearing the engine light

some folks even go as far as removing the positive (+) cable from the Battery and touch that (+)cable to chassis ground on the car to clear the codes and ECM all complete, get a fresh start. I know that on some cars you can also recalibrate the throttle body after maintenance like this; turn key to On position without starting the car and leave there for 25-30 seconds, then turn key back to off position ............ya done man. Happy driving
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Old 12-14-2013, 12:33 PM   #12
jaimico
 
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Thanks, actually the check engine light is off now, but keeps running at 1,500 rpms.

I will reset the ECM, if this persists.
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Old 12-16-2013, 10:06 AM   #13
barryware
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaimico View Post
Thanks, actually the check engine light is off now, but keeps running at 1,500 rpms.

I will reset the ECM, if this persists.
Mine idle'd high for a couple of days.. I can't tell you how many driving hours that was but it got back to normal.

Prolly because I was forcing the butterfly open while I was spraying / wiping it.

Maybe it was idling high due to cleaning the mass air flow sensor.. Not sure because I did both at once.
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Old 12-16-2013, 02:12 PM   #14
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Yeah, actually the same happend to me, after I would say some 20-30 miles of driving it got back to normal, did not have to reset the ECU, now has a more smoth idle than before.

No I did not clean the flow air sensor.
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Old 08-04-2017, 02:09 AM   #15
cerberii
 
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to the OP, did cleaning TB fix this? RPM's came back?
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