Repaired ignition lock cylinder now no power for anything on steering wheel.

[blackace4]

2007 Yaris that had a broken ignition lock cylinder. I simply removed then covered the hole on the steering shaft with sheet metal. Put all harnesses back and the car started no problem. Went to put into gear but tranny was locked. Also the power steering, turn signals and wipers. Basically anything on the steering column. Fuses are fine. 4-Way Flashers work as well as spedometer/odometer. What the heck have I done. I have been messing with this and reading service manuals as well as searching the internet all day. Any ideas would be awesome. Car was fine otherwise and has 335,000 kms on her. I love this car but also realize if I bring this to the dealer it will cost big bucks!

[CTScott]

I am not sure what you are saying that you did to repair it, nor what you mean by tranny went into gear, but was locked? With the latter, do you mean that the tranny would not shift with your foot on the brake and instead you had to press the shift lock bypass switch to shift it?

If you did your steering column work with the battery connected you likely popped one or more fuses.

Check the following:

1. Large fuses built into the positive battery terminal
Check both fuses

2. Fuse panel under the bottom of the dash:
10A GAUGE
7.5A ACC2
10A ECU-IG

[blackace4]

For the repair I replaced the ignition lock cylinder. Tranny is locked and will not go into gear. Checked fuses in the engine compartment and on the positive battery terminal and they are all good. Also there is a 7,5 A and 2 x 30 Amp just below and to the left of the steering wheel. They are fine as well. When I read the driver's manual it shows another instrument panel fuse box which has fuses 21 to 43 in it. The location of the fuses for all the non-working systems are in this one. For the life of me I do not know where the heck it is?? Never mind. I just found the box and every fuses seems intact. Anything else that I could try?

[blackace4]

I drove the car to the dealer with no Electric steering, turn signals, wipers, radio, fans, and of course the shift lock which I disengaged to put into gear. The dealer tried diagnosing the problem but have not been able to find the problem. The suggested either trading it in for $500 or taking to an garage that specializes in diagnosing electrical problems. It cost me $250 for the service. I guess my car is dead for good. I will not by a Toyota again that's for sure. Sorry for being negative but I can't believe this has happened.

[CTScott]

It is still almost definitely a power supply issue. The specific fuses that I mentioned are the circuits related.

If the fuses are good, then the problem might be a corroded chassis ground connection. Do you have a multimeter to be able to go through and measure voltage and resistance at some specified points?

Also, perhaps a silly question, but did you remove the cover on the steering column and make sure that you plugged all of the applicable connectors back in on the ignition switch when you replaced the cylinder?

And, one more - The ignition switch connector has quite a few sets of switch contacts. If it was assembled incorrectly you may simply not be switching what needs to be switched in a specific key position.

[blackace4]

First of all thank you for replying. I have a buddy over and he is a general licensed mechanic. He has used his multimeter and has checked voltage and resistance at all points and is baffled. He is now thinking that perhaps the ignition switch has something to do with supplying power or even computer info to the other components that are not functioning. all harnesses are connected correctly. He has checked the battery which is almost new and located the chassis ground but they are good as well. He is about to give up and have us get the Yaris to an electrical specialist friend of his. He charges $200 for diagnoses and then there may be part(s) involved.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by blackace4

First of all thank you for replying. I have a buddy over and he is a general licensed mechanic. He has used his multimeter and has checked voltage and resistance at all points and is baffled. He is now thinking that perhaps the ignition switch has something to do with supplying power or even computer info to the other components that are not functioning. all harnesses are connected correctly. He has checked the battery which is almost new and located the chassis ground but they are good as well. He is about to give up and have us get the Yaris to an electrical specialist friend of his. He charges $200 for diagnoses and then there may be part(s) involved.

Have him check the following on the ignition connector:

1. Voltage on grey wire with ignition off (Should be 12V)

2. Voltage on yellow wire with ignition off (Should be 12V)

3. Voltage on pink wire with the ignition in the ON position (should be 12V)

4. Voltage on white wire with the ignition in the ON position (should be 12V)

5. Voltage on green wire with the ignition in the ON position (should be 12V)






3. Foltage

[blackace4]

The white and green are only 1.5V. All others are good. Should we replace just the ignition switch then?

[CTScott]

Check the AM1 fuse first.

[blackace4]

Fuse is good. Replaced the Ignition Switch. Everything works except the Electronic steering and the airbag. Also the car idles at 300 rpm and I had set it at 800 when I last changed plugs.
Never mind on the EPS. I put the 50A fuse back in the wrong spot. The airbag light is still on though.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by blackace4

Fuse is good. Replaced the Ignition Switch. Everything works except the Electronic steering and the airbag. Also the car idles at 300 rpm and I had set it at 800 when I last changed plugs.
Never mind on the EPS. I put the 50A fuse back in the wrong spot. The airbag light is still on though.

For the idle, if you adjusted it without disconnecting the battery in between adjustments, that is likely the cause. The throttle control system on the Yaris is not setup for dynamic tweaking of the idle screw.

Check out this thread for instructions on how to see why the airbag is not happy:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...d=1#post557473