Toyota Yaris Forums - Ultimate Yaris Enthusiast Site
 

 


 
Go Back   Toyota Yaris Forums - Ultimate Yaris Enthusiast Site > Technical Forums > Performance Modifications
  The Tire Rack

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 04-03-2017, 05:50 PM   #1
tmontague
 
tmontague's Avatar
 
Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,938
Whiteline Control Arm Bushing install and Review

Alright, a little late to putting it up, but here it is.

I did this in about 6 hours or so, working slow plus the time to sand and paint the LCA's to get rid of the rust that was starting.

Word of caution to those in the salt belt - everyone knows about the issue with the rear LCA bolt and how it rust/corrodes. However, the front LCA bolt for the front bushing is prone to completely seizing the shaft to the metal inner bushing sleeve. Meaning when you unscrew the bolt it will not come out, and any attempts to "shock" it loose with an impact become futile because the rubber bushing dampens the shock.

This is the worst of the 2 front bolts, you can see the rust on it


This is the hole for the front bolt


These are my 2 rear LCA bolts that have the issues. I replaced these 3 years ago with brand new ones and I cover them in anti seize and then marine grade grease. As you can see they are still in great shape. I regrease them every 2 years


This happened to me when I replaced my LCA on my '05 Vibe with 250k km on it. It took me an extra 6 hours to do the job and only one side was seized. I had to use a torch to burn out the rubber and then spin the bolt enough so that it wore a larger hole in the subframe so that the bolt and bushing could fit to come out. The larger hole isn't a huge deal since the washer on the bolt stops it from moving past the subframe hole. It is think metal on the subframe.

My Vios' front bolts weren't seized but were beginning to and my car only has 178k km on it and was oil sprayed every year for the past 3 years. Do yourselves a favor and remove this bolt and slather it in anti seize on the bolt shaft so that this doesn't happen. I had to put a pickle fork behind the bolt and pry it out as I had the impact on it loosening it. The shock wiggled it out very easily.

To access the front LCA bolt on the passenger side you have to un bolt the passenger engine mount and use a jack under the oil pan to lift the engine to fit a socket on it. Use a block of wood under the block so that you don't put too much pressure on the pan.

You can get a spanner on the ball joint castle nut without having to remove the CV axle. Just turn the steering wheel to the full opposite side of the side you are working on to increase your access. Use a ball joint separator of your choice to drop the ball joint from the knuckle. Pull the rear puck bushing out from the subfram then start wiggling the LCA up and down to "scoot" out the front bushing from the subframe.

Now that the LCA is out you can go ahead and press out the old bushings. I used a large C clamp universal ball joint press and even that didn't have an exact match for the puck bushing. It worked well enough but it wasn't easy. Toyota does not make the LCA easy to press in and out bushing due to the design.

Take pictures of the puck bushing to ensure you press in the new bushing to the right depth. It is a weird depth where both sides stick out past the LCA so pay attention when you're pressing it in. The puck bushing can be removed as you would expect with a press. Like I said, the adapters were slightly too large for the bushing and the lip on the bushing is very thin. So press it out slowly and be careful where the adapter is sitting.





For the front bushing I took a hack saw and cut off the rubber part of the old bushing that are like a flange. These "flange" pieces cover the edge of the cup on the LCA which is where the adapter need to press against. Once the rubber flange was cut off I pressed out the bushing.

Inserting the front Whiteline bushing is easy and can be done with your hands. Make sure you apply the Whiteline grease only to the knurled inside of the bushing and the outside of the metal sleeve. Whiteline bushing have a teflon outer coating to avoid squeak so don't grease that part. I pushed in each rubber end and then pushed in the metal sleeve.







To install the puck bushing I made sure the bushing voids were pointing to the ball joint and then I took a mallet and hammered it to the LCA so it was stuck in place and flush so I could start pressing it in. I had an issue with the second LCA as the hole for the bushing was not perfectly circular so that I couldn't seat the bushing flush. This wasted a lot of time as I had to start it with the press and it kept going in crooked. I finally got it seated fluch and pressed it in as far as the oem one.

On the Whiteline bushing one side is tapered to allow for easier pressing in. Make sure you press that side in and not the un tapered side.

Install the rear puck bushing first and then the front one and finally the ball joint. The rear put bushing allows movement that the front one doesn't.

You have to install metal washers on the top and bottom of the bushing when you bolt the LCA in. I put the bottom washer in place then inserted control arm on top of that and then wedged in the upper washer and used a pry bar to pry it into place. You can also put a smaller screwdriver into the bolt hole and force it around to line up the washers with the bushing.





I then loosely tightened the bolt and then wiggled the front bushing into the sub frame, this one is the easy one. I then loosely tightened that bolt and then fit the ball joint bolt into the knuckle. I then turned the steering wheel back to center and the ball joint will seat itself with a clunk. I then put a jack under the ball joint so that I could tighten the bolts down with weight on the suspension.
__________________
No one ever wants to give a Yaris the point by...
tmontague is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2017, 06:09 PM   #2
tmontague
 
tmontague's Avatar
 
Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,938
My thoughts and review

I've gotten about 500 km's on the whiteline's with my summer tires and there are a few things I've noticed.

There doesn't seem to be any difference in the turn in but where the difference seems to be is mid corner or mid turn. Once the initial slop of the Yaris econobox steering rack is gone (after the initial turn in) the corner that you're taking feels much more stable. This is great when you are doing high speed turns like on a highway on ramp. The car feels more solid and tighter when going through the corner. I also noticed a tighter feeling when turning from side to side like in a chicane.

The NVH hasn't increased a whole lot, bumps seem almost more muffled but slightly more harsh. Its strange, it seems the poly mounts are better at controlling the shock to the control arms but seems to send a bit more shock to the cabin. it is not bad and definitely a mod that would be fine for a DD.

All in all I wouldn't do this mod if your oem bushings have less than 100k km on them. I would however definitely do it if you are over the aforementioned mileage or your bushing are showing signs of wear and cracking. Its a worthwhile mod but not one that offers a huge difference so probably not worth the hassle to do if your oem bushings are still perfectly fine.

If you live in the salt belt, do yourself a favor and remove the front bolt to put anti seize on it. Both LCA botls are rust prone, not just the rear.
__________________
No one ever wants to give a Yaris the point by...
tmontague is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2017, 11:51 PM   #3
malibuguy
Obsessed with 1.5L
 
Drives: '10 PW Yaris Sedan
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Westminster, MD
Posts: 907
I have absolutely no slack in my steering...but toe out does that. You do not fight the tires as much and the added ackerman really helps these cars turn. Its very disturbing how well my car corners. I need to get other people to drive it so I know its not in my head.

My whiteline bushings are just about shot at this point. I have plans for modified or just making straight up new lower control arms for mine to gain proper caster adjustment and run a taller ball joint to help with camber gain.

The whiteline 'method' for gaining caster with that offset sleeve is a joke and hard to line up.
__________________
-Greg...the Exhaust Freak.

-10 PW sedan 107whp/110wtq, full exhaust, suspension bits, TRD LSD
-06 Highlander 3mzfe Limited AWD
-82 Malibu, 1uzfe swap
-97 Tercel coupe, 1nzfe/4.31
-96 Tercel coupe, Turbo 5efe, autoX
-96 Tercel 4dr
malibuguy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2019, 02:42 AM   #4
ikenty
4AGE Vitz
 
Drives: '01 Vitz RS, '08 Vitz RS
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: St. kitts & Nevis
Posts: 5
Greetings,

I tried to install Nolathane arm bushings Today and ran into some problems. They are the same as the white line bushings. The rear bushing has a slot to fit into the upper body so the new washer does not fit it. The lower part has a
Metal piece which stops the arm from going all the was in with the new bushings.

I have 2008 Vitz RS
ikenty is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Injen Hydroshield Install and Review Sabretooth DIY / Maintenance / Service 12 07-18-2011 03:55 PM
Megan Racing header install and review with pics. Herbicidal Performance Modifications 6 09-03-2009 08:40 AM
Rostra Cruise Control install done on MT AlexK DIY / Maintenance / Service 34 09-18-2007 03:21 PM
Arm rest review Chaad32 General Yaris / Vitz Discussion 36 09-19-2006 06:42 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:42 AM.




YarisWorld
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.