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Old 04-15-2016, 08:18 PM   #1
CrankyOldMan
2ZR swap. DO IT! Ask how!
 
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Cranky's 2ZR-FE swap

Coming soon to a rear bumper near me:


This list is only for M/T swaps in a 2nd gen (07-10) HB!

I've been driving with the swap for a few weeks now and want to post up some feedback. For comparison, I've had a Blitz supercharger installed on my 1.5 for about 4 years now, and absolutely loved it, right up to the point where it rendered the engine unusable. I never had it on a dyno, but similar setups reported upwards of 140 BHP. In theory the 2ZR is a downgrade, but it's not really apples to apples when you talk displacement vs forced induction. First off, I miss the sound of the supercharger. It would turn heads and blow peoples' minds when they found out what it was. The 2ZR has less "wow factor", but for me the OEM reliability counts for a lot more. The Blitz pulls much harder off the line, but the 2ZR has more consistent power up in the VVT-i range.

All that said, I have to agree with CTScott's opinion that the 2ZR is in fact a better upgrade than forced induction.

Some notes:
  • The clutch and pressure plate appear to be unique part numbers for the xD. I don't know how this affects mating to other gearboxes.
  • An M/T wire harness is VERY difficult to find intact! You may have better luck sourcing an A/T and adding the backup switch wires yourself.
  • The M/T ECU is almost an exact match to the 09 pinout on the body side. The fusebox has a few wires that don't match/exist. I'll cover those in the wiring section.

Shopping list
  • 2ZR-FE motor, long block: Scion xD, Toyota Corolla or Matrix, Pontiac Vibe
  • Intake manifold: same as motor
  • Throttle body: same as motor, unless you bypass the coolant lines
  • Air cleaner with MAF sensor: OEM or aftermarket intake, MAF part# 22204-31020
  • Engine control module (ECM): 89661-52F81, 89661-52F82
  • Engine wire harness: 82121-52E90
  • Passenger side engine mount (3 parts, plus fasteners): 12305-37040 (06/2007 - 11/2007) or 12305-37190 (01/2008 - 06/2014), 12315-37040, 12317-37010
  • Exhaust manifold: OEM or RPM long tube header
  • Mid pipe: OEM or RPM mid pipe
  • Axle-back exhaust: OEM or aftermarket
  • Alternator: OEM 27060-37040 or aftermarket
  • A/C compressor: OEM 88310-1A660 or aftermarket
  • Water pump: OEM 16100-39465 or aftermarket
  • Clutch: OEM 31250-12510 or aftermarket (limited selection!)
  • Pressure plate: OEM 31210-12291 or aftermarket (limited selection!)
  • Flywheel: OEM 13405-37050 or aftermarket (OEM no longer available!)
  • Starter: OEM 28100-37040 or aftermarket (OEM no longer available!)

There are several smaller parts that I had to source because I only had a bare longblock. I can work on a list of those, but it's probably easier for you to just find an xD at a junk yard and strip the engine bay.

Last edited by CrankyOldMan; 02-01-2017 at 10:16 AM. Reason: Removed shopping list, made more notes.
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Old 04-15-2016, 08:18 PM   #2
CrankyOldMan
2ZR swap. DO IT! Ask how!
 
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Engine prep and assembly

I was able to find an almost mint engine, but the tradeoff is that it was stripped all the way down to the long block. No accessories, no mounts, hardly any hardware, most of the brackets and hoses were gone, too. I also don't have a ready supply of 09+ 2ZR vehicles to scavenge parts from, so I've had to buy or barter for a lot of the parts that would come with it if you pulled it from a vehicle yourself. ArmstrongRacing has been a huge help with sourcing some of the larger items, as well as confirming what parts can be reused from the Yaris.

I replaced the crank position sensor and oil pressure switch because they were damaged in the process of bringing the engine home. For reference, the 2ZR will just fit into the hatch of the Yaris, if you remove all the wire harness attachment brackets and EGR valve from the top.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_20160617_164624710_HDR.jpg (482.4 KB, 457 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20160617_164633390_HDR.jpg (452.1 KB, 455 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20160617_164646202_HDR.jpg (478.9 KB, 451 views)
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File Type: jpg IMG_20160730_163450731.jpg (316.8 KB, 427 views)

Last edited by CrankyOldMan; 08-04-2016 at 11:29 AM. Reason: Starting to assemble the parts
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Old 04-15-2016, 08:20 PM   #3
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2ZR swap. DO IT! Ask how!
 
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Wiring, hoses, etc.

Throttle body

There are two different configurations for the xD throttle body: one that is like the 1ZZ and one with a vacuum port at the top (as installed). The vacuum line from this goes to the brake booster. If you have the 1ZZ style TB, you need the hose that goes to the port on the plenum below the TB flange. If you have the xD style, you need the hose that goes to the TB. *Pics to follow*


Wiring

The xD engine wire harness is almost an exact match to the Yaris' engine fuse/relay block connectors, with the exception of the MAF sensor power: pin 9 on connector CA2 (male) is missing on the Yaris. There are a few different ways to go about this, but I'm planning to use either an OEM pin from a salvaged Yaris fuse/relay block and a fuse tap, or one of the existing powered, un-populated fuse slots.

The Yaris uses low-profile ATM style fuses, and the taps aren't usually available at auto parts stores. I got one from Amazon (Lumision) that has a right angle head and a second fuse slot to add your new device. If I go this route, I'll just splice in the pigtail and poke it into the connector.

*EDIT* The other way is to use one of the un-populated slots. They're all powered from the bus side, you just have to insert a wire with the right connector to hook in a fuse. Super clean, no signs of aftermarket shenanigans. I took the wires out of a Yaris fuse box and found one that will work perfectly. I will use one of the empty fuse slots and populate the missing pin for the MAF sensor.


Hoses

Most of the hoses are application-specific, but the Yaris ones can be re-used if you're not concerned about odd bends or extra length. My engine was missing almost everything, so I bought aftermarket parts where available and new, OEM for the rest. Looking them up in the parts catalog is a mess, so I'll put up a list of parts at some point. The Yaris filler neck will not quite fit around the throttle body, and the hose from the radiator will be kinked. The xD filler neck mounts to the radiator instead of the TB, and uses different hoses.


Accessories

The alternator tension bracket was missing as well, so I just ordered new parts. It's the same as on the 2ZR Matrix/Vibe/xD, so you could get used ones from a u-pick yard.

The alternator is the same as the 2ZR Matrix/Vibe/xD.

The starter from the Yaris can be re-used, but preferably the cold-spec version. The xD is 1.8 kW - the standard Yaris one is only 0.8 kW, the cold spec is 1.8 kW. Connectors are identical, but placement is a little different.

Power steering is electrically driven, so there's no pump to mess with.

Air conditioning is optional. The compressor and short hoses are model-specific.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_20160911_125854014.jpg (451.7 KB, 385 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20160803_191302921.jpg (383.8 KB, 383 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20160918_190616173.jpg (202.7 KB, 316 views)

Last edited by CrankyOldMan; 02-01-2017 at 04:57 PM. Reason: Added throttle body info
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Old 04-15-2016, 08:20 PM   #4
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2ZR swap. DO IT! Ask how!
 
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Installation

The best thing to do is to get a 2 day subscription to the Toyota Tech Info site so that you can get the OEM repair manuals. Make sure you get the diagrams for ALL of the parts you're installing so that you have torque specs for the bolts.

Take a look at Brushforhire's thread for basic things that need to be done. The speed sending unit is most easily done by removing it from an existing Yaris wire harness, protecting it with wire loom/sleeves, and plugging it into the connector in the engine bay fusebox.

The Yaris radiator shroud has threaded inserts for mounting the xD radiator filler neck. They will probably need to be tapped to clean up the threads, but it's well worth it to have the right parts in the right place. The upper hose from the Yaris is too short, you will need the xD hose.

Tricky areas
Getting the engine to line up with the mounts and clear the subframe didn't go so well. I put a nice gouge and a 6" crack in the windshield where the load leveler collided with it. Damn.

I also pinched a CV boot in the process. The band was trapped between the subframe and the transmission, causing the grease to leak out. Damn damn.

The radiator hose clamps are evil incarnate. I spent at least 2 hours trying to get the lower hose connected back to the engine. I don't know what Toyota expects you to do with these things.

Lots of the wire harness brackets need to be swapped over, or otherwise improvised. Specifically, the one on the passenger strut tower and all of the ones on the gearbox.

The immobilizer has to be dealt with. There is LOTS of confusing information in the OEM wiring diagrams that will really mess with your head. Proceed with caution.

The Yaris shift cables are too short. The xD cables are a little too long. Better too long than short, I guess. I'm not sure where the problem is, since the shifter cages should be identical, and the gearbox cases are actually identical.

Last edited by CrankyOldMan; 10-17-2016 at 09:09 AM.
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Old 04-15-2016, 08:55 PM   #5
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Very excited to see this happen! Congrats!
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Old 04-15-2016, 10:27 PM   #6
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Really lookin forward to this build. This is what i'll be using as my guide when I eventually need a new engine.

To clarify, can you use a Yaris oem clutch and pressure plate? Or is the 2zr one needed for this work?

I know the pressure plate is different for the 2zr but not sure about the clutch and pressure plate
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Old 04-16-2016, 01:17 AM   #7
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When I did the swap,I used a 09 corolla fly wheel and clutch assembly ,I originally wanted a celica gts 2zz flywheel and clutch assembly but ran out of money,settled for used low km corolla assembly, the splines on the input shaft on the yaris transmission are the same. But no I think the bolt pattern for the clutch is different on the yaris so it won't bolt up to xd fly wheel. PS if you have a factory immobiliser , you can't just use a non immobiliser ECU,won't start ,there is something in the body wiring harness.

Last edited by froger; 04-16-2016 at 01:33 AM.
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Old 04-16-2016, 06:59 AM   #8
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When I did the swap
When did you swap?
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Old 04-16-2016, 10:33 AM   #9
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About 2 years ago ,I think ,haven't really been on the forum lately until now.
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Old 04-16-2016, 11:58 AM   #10
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About 2 years ago ,I think ,haven't really been on the forum lately until now.
So you beat ArmstrongRacing to the swap which got exposure as the first US 2ZR-FE powered Yaris http://www.subcompactculture.com/201....html?m=1#more

Canada TRUMPS the United States (see what I did there)
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Old 04-16-2016, 03:20 PM   #11
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Cranky: do you have an immobilizer? I'm wondering what the difference would be for parts if one does the swap w/ an immobilizer. I'm assuming needing an ECU with an immobilizer plus the correct wiring harness
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Old 04-16-2016, 06:13 PM   #12
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In Canada most all Toyota's after 2007 came equipped with a immobiliser,I though initially it was just a matter of buying a American xd ECU with out a immobiliser but failed.(car no start)
After some research found that on immobiliser and non immobiliser engine wiring harness are the same but the body wiring harness is different,figure there is something in the harness that tells the engine ECU that there is a immobiliser ecu.didn't want to deal with dissecting harness so ended up changing engine ECU ,immobiliser ECU and keys( had to change second gen g keys).
NOTE: if you doing the swap don't use yaris shift cables,there too short(they will work),The new mounts push the tranmission forward by 2 inches ,ended up ripping out the studs off the body which hold the cables,two holes in body had to weld the studs back in.
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Old 04-16-2016, 06:55 PM   #13
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so ended up changing engine ECU ,immobiliser ECU and keys( had to change second gen g keys).
NOTE: if you doing the swap don't use yaris shift cables,there too short(they will work),The new mounts push the tranmission forward by 2 inches ,ended up ripping out the studs off the body which hold the cables,two holes in body had to weld the studs back in.
I'm confused as to what you did to get the immobilizer to work with the 2zr?

Are the 2zr shift cables compatible?
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Old 04-16-2016, 08:55 PM   #14
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Awesome! Glad to see someone documenting this swap with the Yaris C50 trans!

The "first US swap" We did was with a Xd manual trans and shift cables, so we didnt use any Yaris clutch components.

I agree that using a auto trans harness is probably easiest, but you could also order a new manual trans Xd harness fron Toyota...I get a fat discount on Toyota parts so let me know if you guys need anything

Last edited by ArmstrongRacing; 04-16-2016 at 09:33 PM.
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Old 04-16-2016, 08:56 PM   #15
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About 2 years ago ,I think ,haven't really been on the forum lately until now.
lets see some pictures!!!
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Old 04-17-2016, 12:03 AM   #16
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All xd in Canada used a second generation immobiliser system so all the keys have a small G in graved on the key,my yaris had a first generation so it has a dot in graved on the key,couldn't get the old generation immobiliser to work with the xd ecu ,so just ended up getting a xd immobiliser ,xd computer and xd keys(chip is different). As for the shift cables yes xd cables are the only ones that work properly. It turns out the dimensions of the subframe are similar from what i figured,only difference is the xd subframe looks more reinforced,both cars even have same wheel base,so I also ended up using the xd sway bar as well ,it's thicker by a couple of mm.the distance of the sway bar is the same,both use same control arms ,knuckles and struts.so it possible to do a five bolt hub conversion as well ,only if you wanted to.
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Old 04-17-2016, 12:38 AM   #17
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The pictures are crap ,taken with crappy cell phone camera,also I don't have an Xd air box ,using a corolla air box for now.
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Old 04-18-2016, 01:12 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by froger View Post
About 2 years ago ,I think ,haven't really been on the forum lately until now.
Yeah, I think yours was finished around the end of July, 2014.

Quote:
Originally Posted by froger View Post
In Canada most all Toyota's after 2007 came equipped with a immobiliser
All vehicles build after 08/2007 in Canada are required to have an immobilizer, this includes Yaris and xD models. We didn't have xD until 2011, however ours did have immobilizer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by froger View Post
I though initially it was just a matter of buying a American xd ECU with out a immobiliser but failed.(car no start)
After some research found that on immobiliser and non immobiliser engine wiring harness are the same but the body wiring harness is different,figure there is something in the harness that tells the engine ECU that there is a immobiliser ecu.
Yes, the engine harness and engine ECU are the same for vehicles with and without immobilizer. All of the changes are on the body harness side. On froger's car he tried to remove the immobilizer wires heading into the ECU and disconnecting the immobilizer on the body side. According to all of the published wiring diagrams, everything was as it would be on a Yaris without immobilizer, however the ECU (from a non-immobilizer car), still threw a code for immobilizer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by froger View Post
didn't want to deal with dissecting harness so ended up changing engine ECU ,immobiliser ECU and keys( had to change second gen g keys).
Ended up using a 2011-12 xD 2ZR-FE engine ECU, 2011-2014 xD/Yaris Sedan immobilizer ECU with the newer 3rd-gen immobilizer keys ('G' mark - 89785-08040) to match the vehicle. May have been able to keep using the original immobilizer system if done properly, however I cannot recall what the issue with that was off the top of my head. I think froger just wanted to be sure and so he made everything match.

Quote:
Originally Posted by froger View Post
NOTE: if you doing the swap don't use yaris shift cables,there too short(they will work),The new mounts push the tranmission forward by 2 inches ,ended up ripping out the studs off the body which hold the cables,two holes in body had to weld the studs back in.
Yeah, the ZSP90 Yaris (factory 2ZR-equipped Yaris) used the same shift cables as the xD, so the xD cables were the proper ones to use. The NCP Yaris cables are shorter for sure.

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